I am planning to cross the Sea of Cortez by ferry on my motorcycle in April and am looking for some on the ground intel about what to expect on the roads. I am not looking for advise about documents, or road conditions, or not to drive at night. What I am looking for is contrary intel to the US State Department travel advisory that warns against any non-essential travel through Sonora, particularly the area north of Hermosillo to the border and west towards the crossing at Sonoyta.
Anyone at all have any recent experience?
In advance, thanks. Will

I was in the area last November and more recently this year in September, but only in the Mexicali area briefly.

Last November I crossed by Ferry La Paz to Mazatlan, then rode South a bit around Zacatecas, working my way North to Durango, Parral, Cuauhtemoc, then onto Mex 16, brief tour around Copper Canyon, then continuing on Mex 16 to Hermosillo. A great road through the Sierra.

From Hermosillo, made a Bee line to the border via Mex 15. LOTS of road construction, but no issues. On this trip I choose to cross at Nogales as it's closer, NOT because of any State dept. generated fears. But it's a LONG haul from Nogales to San Francisco.

I've also ridden the section you're planning on via Mex. 2 over to Sonoyita and crossed there ... but rode it coming South, stopping in Caborca. That was a few years ago. No issues ... even rode last two hours on Mex 2 at night into Caborca.

So, as you come North on Mex 15 you'll come to Santana and the junction of
Mex 15 and Mex 2.

GO WEST on Mex 2 to Caborca (very well signed). I see NO ISSUES here.
The Federal Police are everywhere and the Mex Army as well.
But make no mistake ... it's the Cartels running the show from behind the scenes. My feeling is tourists are pretty much left alone. But shit does happen.
Keep your head up, eyes open and always trust your gut!

I've taken the Topolobambo Ferry 3 times on previous trips. A great way to enter into Copper Canyon. If you have time or inclination, go for it.

Safe Travels!

Lots can change between now ( October) and April.
A good strategy would be to keep checking the news feeds from inside Mexico and get informed of what sorts of things might be of concern to you.
The State Dept. warnings are all blanket statements to cover any eventuality, and cover their assess .
And you may be well advised to indeed keep an eye open for any changes in documentation needs and road conditions . Anything CAN change .

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In jan 2015 I rode from Nogales to Hermosillo. No problems

Then when I left Copper Canyon I rode from:

El fuerte to Los Mochis to Mazatlan and then I went east do Durango - no problems.

But then again the halway point between los mochis and mazatlan is Culiacan. That is near where the two guyz from down under were killed a few weeks back.

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Alaska 2014: Hotel Budget ZeroXmas in Death Valley, New Year in Urique

If you hang around in Cartel owned bars in Culiacan or go snooping round back streets or go looking for Meth labs up in the hills outside town ... then I could see trouble coming your way. It's a Mexican gang town, owned and operated.

As most know, Culiacan is Cartel Central, former home of the famous Chapo Guzman, Cartel jefe, now on the lamb. The biggest danger are young cartel guys (many former Mexican military) sniffing up their own product. Muy loco.

Tweakers can be some of the most dangerous people on the planet. I learned this very well back in late 60's when Hippies started doing Speed, Heroin and Cocaine. SPEED was the worst; cheap and available. Worst drug ever. Never, ever, trust someone doing Speed.

That said, for normal tourists, I don't see any problems for those just passing through, or stopping in a nice hotel for one night. I did just that a few years ago after coming off Topolobambo Ferry. No problems ... and I arrived at midnight.

Stuff can happen, but in general I don't see a threat. I would not go exploring the foothills and Sierra near there at night. But I've crossed the Sierra there, gone via dirt roads over to Copper Canyon via Mex 24 to Guadalupe De Calvo. Look it up.

I will remember that about Culiacan.

BTW Guzman was busted today

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Alaska 2014: Hotel Budget ZeroXmas in Death Valley, New Year in Urique

We have recently ridden from Arizona to Hermosillo and then over to the west coast of Mexico. All quiet, talk is Guzman was captured in Los Mochis, but I have no clue what that says about that area or nationwide.

We have been living comfortably in Sonora since mid November 2015 and plan to be here until after Easter. They say week before, week of, and week after Easter brings tens of thousands to the beaches of Sonora. I strongly suggest not being on Mexican coastal roads during/around Easter. Borders will be backed up. Hotel rates skyrocket and supplies have been known to run out. Some normal two way coastal roads become one way making it tough to backtrack - usually over dirt unimproved roads.

One tourist likened Easter here to the pop song "Hotel California" ... whatever

Have not experienced and do not anticipate problems on our return to USA which will be via ferry to Baja and then riding up Baja to California.

PM if you are in the area.

xfiltrate

Il be in mexico for most of March and I am flying out of Cancun on March 28th.

I dont/never make reservations for trips. Do you think I ll be ok to find hotels in the Yucatan on Easter weekend?

Should I bring a tent?

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Alaska 2014: Hotel Budget ZeroXmas in Death Valley, New Year in Urique

You will have no trouble finding a room. Be resourceful, look for hotels in the medium to large to very large towns . Any place where a federal highway passes a town of , say 7000 population is likely to have at least one place for lodging. . Bigger towns , and those near tourist draws are probable targets , look around the central plaza, look in the side streets and alleys .ASK the locals where the hotels are.
Seaside towns and resorts are likely to have good supplies of hotels but these charge higher rates and also draw the big crowds on holiday weekends which actually may nearly fill hotels available. This is particularly so in the Mayan Riviera where the snow birds migrate .
WARNING : do not go to CELESTUN during a holiday weekend. It is a pretty enough little seaside town but on certain holidays they have a festival and set up 300 loudspeakers of 1 million watts each and blast LOUD music/noise all over the town all night until 6 am. Okay, maybe I exaggerate a bit on their power , but you will not get a wink of sleep . Been there done that. It is very nice on a quiet midweek night.
HOLBOX on Isla Holbox is interesting but can fill up on holidays.
In Cancun you can always find reasonable (low! )priced rooms at the hotels along the north edge of downtown along Mex 180/Av Lopez Portillo.
Finding a hotel room in the 'normal towns" will be no problem, they do not draw massive crowds , just the locals having parades, parties, concerts at the plaza and going home.

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Thank you Sjoerd for this very complete info.

I have only been in Northern Mexico. I am traveling on a big tourer this time (yamaha venture)

I think I have enough time to reach any single spot on lower mainland Mexico on my trip. I like remote riding areas, dirt roads are fine as longs the there arent too damaged (I have low clearance aye... topes!)

Do you have any particuliar spots, areas or roads you recommend?

Thanks

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Alaska 2014: Hotel Budget ZeroXmas in Death Valley, New Year in Urique

I like riding all over, give me warm weather and good roads and I'll be happy.
Some spots you will enjoy on your heavy bike in the Yucatan :
-- Chetumal, ,
--Bacalar and its blue laguna,
-- all kind of narrow paved regional roads wandering around through the scrubby jungle west of Felipe Carillo Puerto and connecting countless small MAYAN villages . You can wander for days around there as you advance north to or from Merida, Valladolid and the north coast of Yucatan.
---Lots of Mayan ruins sites , cenotes, old haciendas of the sisal era now in ruin or converted to country estates or b&b or museum s open to visitors.
In Chiapas you will enjoy Mex 190 through Tuxtla Gutierrez , S Cristobal , Mex 187, 195 and 199, the entire loop of Mex 307 around the Lacandona and along the Guatemalan border. , visit Z A of Bonampak, Yaxchilan both from Frontera Corozal, ; Palenque ZA and town /
The Mex 17 across the Pantanos de Centla ( delta wetlands ) through Jonuta and Palizada are very interesting, it is paved highway to the coastal route of Mex 180 and Frontera ( west ) and Cd Del Carmen (east )
just toooooo man to detail.

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