Hi All,
There are a few threads on torque wrenches, but are they really necessary ?

I am about to attempt a practice tyre change.

In addition, would a torque wrench be taken on tour ?

Thanks

They're not necessary if you have confidence in your own "feel", if you overtighten stuff there's a chance of stripping threads and if you undertighten there's a chance of it working loose...
I have a couple and never use them, I work in engineering and rarely use them (but do sometimes use extensometers and degrees of turn on very big stuff)

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I had to change out the piston rings on my XT in the Rep of Congo. Having no torque wrench I didn't want to overtighten the bolts when I rebuilt.
The head gasket blew a few weeks later..........! I've also stripped bolts by overtightening them in the past.

I've just purchased a torque wrench from Amazon, SILVERLINE 633567 TORQUE WRENCH 210 NM for £17.99. (a rear tyre for the tenere is 120NM torque)
To me it's just a socket wrench, so yeah, I'll be taking it with me.

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They can be useful in a controlled environment such as a production line. Out in the field they quickly lose their credibility. They measure the twisting force needed to run a threaded rod through a threaded hole or vice versa. What you really want to measure is the clamping force between the two parts and these do not co relate very well. Once you get dry/lubricated threads you introduce very large differences, worn threads, rough threads, rust and dents all play a significant part.
I always assemble using grease on the threads, used to use graphite but lately been using molybdenumdisulphide the reason is when the grease disappears the residue still lubricates. This is especially true when steel threads go into aluminium. It will stop the threads binding and stripping when you need to disassemble. For some applications there are special compounds such as copperslip for exhaust studs.
I wouldn't bother to take one. Learn to take up the slack then add a little nip. It is something that is better shown. For covers once all the slack is out a 1/4 turn is about right. you might need more for a head gasket. Never overtighten plugs, you just need to start crushing the washer. (They have a fine thread and usually run directly in aluminium).

hope that helps. perhaps ask a bike mechanic ( not HGV) to show you how.

Thanks guys.....I feel a bit more comfortable that tightening isnt an exact science.

2 questions.
Copperslip, is that copper grease ? - I did a beginners motorcycle mechanics course and it was suggested to use copper grease on spindles and other non-moving parts. I presume that is on the threads too ? - Is copper grease the best stuff to use ?

How about loctite on wheel nuts and other crucial nuts, just in case the torque wasnt enough ? - Should nuts be checked on a daily basis after long stretches of dirt track etc ?

Thanks

unless you have to work on the cylinder head bolts.. don't carry a torque wrench on a trip... rather order a cheap one on the net where ever you may need one and trade it in next time you need a workshop, or try to find a workshop in time to do the head work... no need for tyre change at all...
yes I had a over tighten head stud without a torque wrench and had to helycoil the cylinder.. but I was at home and had all the time and tools I needed... part of a torque wrench, which I have now.. but would never take one on a trip.

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The trouble is that he was talking in philosophy, but they were listening in gibberish.

Copperslip's a good idea on threads, helps stop corrosion and lubricates the threads to make tightening more effective (as a nut is tightened there's a lot of force used in overcoming friction, so dry threads appear to be tight before lubed threads)
Its always good practice to check round fasteners, especially if you've been working on something, heads in particular after several miles because of the temperature range they go through, then once they've been retightened you should be able to forget them.

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Cheers !

Did the front tyre...took it off, broke a sweat, cursed a bit but managed to remove the rubber in the end.....now its back on and working.

Rode gingerly up and down the driveway and nothing fell off, so now off to a friends house down the motorway....the moment of truth

Thanks again.

I would say no to torque wrench, but the other trick used by us from forces, or even dakar racers paint a line on the nut and a dot below above it so they line up, then when checking it is more visual than getting a spanner out to check tightness

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Practice is your friend, get an old engine and practice tightening bolts check them with a torque wrench and see how close you are to the given value.
With practice you should get pretty close most of the time.

For home mechanics they are great, especially for learning.

I used one a lot when I was learning mechanics. You only learn "Feel" by using a torque wrench in the first place. You will be surprised just how LOW the torque of some bolts are. Should deffo be used for engine rebuilds but not so important when doing up your wheel axles etc..

Everyone thinks "tighter the better"


On the road... NO WAY !!

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Can't say anymore.

Thanks guys,

I do feel slightly insecure about the torque Ive applied, even though my wheel never came off on the motorway . I may buy a few sockets to fit my torque wrench to get a feel for the different bolts requirements. But as suggested, this will not join me on tour ! - THANKS

I also particularly liked Selous's trick, I may give this a shot too !!!!

Should allow for more relaxing time rather that bolt checking time after the ride.

So no locktite then (not on axel, but other nuts (ie: wheel axel holder nut (xt600e) ?

Cheers

If you need a torque wrench you could always just leave a deposit with a mechanic and borrow theirs... seen it done a couple of times.

If a torque wrench doesn't have a recent certificate of calibration it is not necessarily accurate.......

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