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Photo by Andy Miller, UK, Taking a rest, Jokulsarlon, Iceland

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Andy Miller, UK,
Taking a rest,
Jokulsarlon, Iceland



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  #16  
Old 10 Aug 2005
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I recently bought some Andy Strapz canvas panniers :
http://www.andystrapz.com/expedition_panniers.htm
They seem to be well made and tough, and have a good reputation here in Straya.
If you're worried about security, I also have some Zegas which anyone could open in about five seconds with a decent screwdriver. They really need a much better latching system.

Good luck in your travels,

Phil
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  #17  
Old 10 Aug 2005
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Quote:
Originally posted by tedmagnum:
Can anybody recommend some strong Alumunium boxes and rack system for an Africa twin then. I really cant afford to spend over £600 but they need to survive 8 months in South America.

Try Paul cave as he does a really nice set which are stronger than those other ones and cost under £400. Hi details are;


EIBC Ltd

t +44 1256 889989
m +44 7879 627911
e paul@eibcltd.co.uk

http://www.xrv.org.uk/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1812

This should let you view what they look like on Paul's bike.
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  #18  
Old 10 Aug 2005
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These Paul cave ones seem great and he really is highly sung about on www.xrv.org.uk.

Cheers for that link mate, its helped allot
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  #19  
Old 10 Aug 2005
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No problem, i am presently saving for a pair myself for my Africa Twin.
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  #20  
Old 12 Aug 2005
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Hi, I have just bought a set of touratech boxes for my AT,previous to this I was using Oxford throw overs, good kit it survivied me throwing the bike down in Maroc 12 times, down a road in France once, mostly low speed stuff. However, the draw backs are when it rains your kit will get damp and if your camping its no fun having wet bags in the tent. Also there is a limit to how much you can carry. As for the strenght of boxes, aluminiumm isn't renowned for its crash proof properties, hit hard enough it will bend, who makes the box at the top end of the market is in my opinion academic. If you want boxes buy them, the advantages are obvious.

PK
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  #21  
Old 12 Aug 2005
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Iv just found the perfect pannier system. check out the link below

Its very highly recommended, the rack is also quick release, it fits with race exhausts. The boxes are fantastic quality and the bonus is that there £200 cheaper than TT.

The guy who makes / fits them is a top bloke. Im putting my order in this week

http://www.xrv.org.uk/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1848

Also, email the guy: paul"at"eibcltd.co.uk

http://www.eibcltd.co.uk/

[This message has been edited by tedmagnum (edited 12 August 2005).]
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  #22  
Old 17 Aug 2005
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Hi Everyone,
Traveled from the USA to the Arctic Circle, then to Tierra del Fuego and back to the USA. Lots of dirt roads in Bolivia and Argentina. Two nasty crashes. I used Jesse Bags. 100K+ miles on the Jesse system. They are not perfect and honestly no bag system is.
If you have soft bags you will have to drag them into every hotel room you stay at and that will get to be a PIA, especially if you travel with full camping gear.
Security first.
Beware of soft baggers. No way they are carrying full gear. Ask where the tent stove and cook kit is? And the sleeping pad and bag. Figure it out. Your stuff has to go somewhere and if you live off your bike for long periods you need stuff or you do without, think it through if you plan to camp, carry books, clothes, a decent medical kit and clothes for both a tropical and a temperate climate. And a bike cover and electronics and tools and spare parts, water filter, dop kit, Yada, Yada. Man, it takes cubic inches of storage.
You might think the guys at Zega are stupid but come on, they have made these bags for many years because the design is durable and VERY easy to pack giving the most packable space of any bag. This is very important when you use the bike every day.
Also it is not just the bag to consider. The rack is just as important, you do not often hear complaints about Zega bag mounts fracturing, they will stand up to a repair when you crash and you will crash. Everyone I rode with in Central and South America that did any off road riding crashed. If you get hit by an automobile and have soft bags your equipment wil be ruined or strewn all over the road.
Saftey. Which bag do you want to come down on your leg? Nice rounded edges on the Zega bags if you noticed. Also if they get crushed being a square design makes them easy to pound out.
OK, you should know I just bought a set of Zega bags for my new-used '02 KTM Adventure 640LC. For the money I could have had any system. Ya they are wide but no wider than Happy Trails or the Jesse system. Use a 41L on non exhaust side and 35L on exhaust side to keep overall width down to a minimum.
The worst part of the Zega system is that you can lose the lids and they need a leash to prevent this, Also the locks are junk but they are on all bags. At least with the square design it will be easy to install a heavy hasp and a big lock. Security first. Consider everything.
Bill Shockley, Tomahawk, WI.
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  #23  
Old 17 Aug 2005
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I was thinking about getting hard luggage for my next trip but reading this thread the main advantage of hard luggage seems to be security. I had to ask myself "How much are my scants actually worth and how many times could they be nicked before my outlay of cash was the same as a set of Touratechs?"
I reckon I'm going to get a set of softies and a top box for my valuables.
My question is this though: Anyone used the Ortlieb Motorcycle Saddllebags? They look good and simple and they are supposedly waterproof. My Ortlieb roll top bag is great and survived a crash which wrote off the bike so I like the brand. Would be interested in peoples experiences though.
matt
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*Disclaimer* - I am not saying my bike is better than your bike. I am not saying my way is better than your way. I am not mocking your religion/politics/other belief system. When reading my post imagine me sitting behind a frothing pint of ale, smiling and offering you a bag of peanuts. This is the sentiment in which my post is made. Please accept it as such!
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  #24  
Old 17 Aug 2005
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Oops, just reread the thread and seen Ians entry re:Ortliebs. Sounds good enough for me. I have the same issues regarding isolating the bags from the silencer though. I'm thinking of making an aluminium plate bolted to the passenger footrest and parcel rack but am not sure if this will itself heat up and melt the bag. How far would the plate have to be from the silencer? Alternatively is there an insulating material I could stick to the alu plate to prevent heat transfer?
matt
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*Disclaimer* - I am not saying my bike is better than your bike. I am not saying my way is better than your way. I am not mocking your religion/politics/other belief system. When reading my post imagine me sitting behind a frothing pint of ale, smiling and offering you a bag of peanuts. This is the sentiment in which my post is made. Please accept it as such!
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  #25  
Old 18 Aug 2005
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If you have two plates between the exhasust and the luiggage it will keep most of the heat away.

Most of the heat seams to be radiation - so the second plate colects that. Convection should not be a problem uless you are stoped. A 10 mm spacing should be enough between the sheets - provided you dont seal the edges - sealing the edges does not let cool air flow between the plates.
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  #26  
Old 18 Aug 2005
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Hello. Just my two cents on this topic. I prefer hard bags. I was never impressed with what's on the market and the price, so i made my own. A solid 2mm aluminum sheet bent into a trough (for turning clearence)and capped on either side, TIG welded throughout. The lids are much the same, simple square with a 1" lip and a rubber seal. I used weld-on aluminum hinges, which leave the lids removeable and very usefull for trays, wind-block, etc. I've now discovered how fragile the hinges actually are and will be adding clip-on cable lanyards to prevent them from hitting the groung when they do fall.I lock them with barrel-locks, available in any country. My boxes are mounted with 1 1/2" angle, one mounted to the box, one mounted to my sub-frame. They sit on top of each other and are bolted together with two bolts. I added a strut from the very back of my sub-frame to the footpegs to create a strong tri-angle, The bottom of the box has a welded tab on the lower front which bolts to a tab welded to this strut. The two boxes are attached together across the back with another strut. The complete unit is as wide as my handle-bars.
Each box is attached with four easy-access bolts. I can remove the whole system in under five minutes without opening the boxes and exposing their contents. If i wish, i could fasten them with special torx-head bolts to make it more secure, but i haven't bothered. The boxes only come off the bike when i feel like some serious off-roading anyway.
In my opinion, any high-speed crash has the ability to bend the frame, boxes or not. We're not susposed to crash at high-speed anyways, right!?! My boxes are slowly getting scratched and dented from off-road downs, but actually act as a strengthner to my frame and as an enormous crash-bar, protecting my levers and handlebars. It's also really easy to pick-up, because it really never falls far. I puposely built them wider and not so deep to provide more ground clearence. This is also very important when you get into a situation where you put your foot down to regain balance (yah, i know, a rookie mistake, but after 25 years of off-roading i still catch myself...) your leg doesn't get caught under the box and rip your knee to shreads! You still have room to get it out and remind yourself never to do that again!
Granted, i'm a metal fabricator and have access to all the tools required to build this stuff, so to those who don't, try this:
Build your boxes out of card-board parrerns, then give the patters to a qualified metal shop. They have the gear to cut-out the sheet and brake (bending machine)into shape in a few hours. If i wasn't a welder, i would definately rivet them together, using a marine-adhesive on the seams. Every plane you see flying above you, and nearly every bridge you will cross has rivets!
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  #27  
Old 18 Aug 2005
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I think you guys need to take a look at the Zega cases and custom rear frame I had made:
http://tinyurl.com/6gymm


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  #28  
Old 18 Aug 2005
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A mate of mine has Metal Mules which are very good. If I could afford hard panniers I'd probably go for a set of them. As long as you don't specify too many features you could get a set of 2 38l panniers and rack for £600.
Matt
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*Disclaimer* - I am not saying my bike is better than your bike. I am not saying my way is better than your way. I am not mocking your religion/politics/other belief system. When reading my post imagine me sitting behind a frothing pint of ale, smiling and offering you a bag of peanuts. This is the sentiment in which my post is made. Please accept it as such!
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  #29  
Old 19 Aug 2005
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Despite my awful review on the Zega cases - the Touratech rack IS GOOD !

Its quality steel, well made, and very strong. Six crashes, 50000km, and no signs of damage.

My 2cents on soft luggage. I got hit side on by a car in Brasil. The metal boxes took all the impact, saving a space for my legs between the bike/bumper and bike/road.




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  #30  
Old 19 Aug 2005
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I will throw in my two pence worth I have had both ali panniers and hepco gobi plastic panniers and can recommend the plastic set, security wise they will stop a walk bye thief to about the same level as ali ones, they bounce much better than ali in a crash. they cost about £400 pair, they are 37 litre,dust proof, submersible - waterproof, lockable, carry 3.5 litres water in jacket of skin of pannier,they are virtually indestructable (double skinned polythene type plastic,top loading,quickly detachable with keyed locks, have top luggage mounting straps and you can get a42 ltr top box to go with the set as well. they mount quite high so are not such a problem onrough ground or when cornering. No single luggage system can do everything and these are smaller in capacity than some but I have used them for two years without any problems and they have been in several slower speed drops and taken the blows really well as the are not totally rigid like metal. for me they work well.
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