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How to warm Diesel in Winter (Siberia)? How to warm Diesel in Winter (Siberia)?
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Equipping the Overland Vehicle Vehicle accessories - Making your home away from home comfortable, safe and reliable.
Photo by Alessio Corradini, on the Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia, of two locals

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Alessio Corradini,
on the Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia,
of two locals



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  #16  
Old 5 Oct 2007
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Avoid using ether [Easystart] .... An excess will blow head gaskets and warp cylinder heads , I've seen it happen..

I can attest to that. I had a recovery service bring about the ruin of a 2.25 LR diesel engine (broken crank a couple of days later) after a quick squirt to get it running.

Interesting to know that modern high pressure/CRDs don't like mixing it up. Another reason to stick with old diesels in the wilds.

I've also had a 60-series hand brake not disengage at -10 or so until the car was running for a while. I've also heard that parking on ice with low psi tyres warmed from a day's run can see them freeze to the ice overnight - though no sure if this is an urban myth.

Ch
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  #17  
Old 5 Oct 2007
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[
I've also had a 60-series hand brake not disengage at -10 or so until the car was running for a while. I've also heard that parking on ice with low psi tyres warmed from a day's run can see them freeze to the ice overnight - though no sure if this is an urban myth.
]

It happens all the time but the torque reduction in low gear, particularly low range breaks it loose. When I park my smaller vehicles in my gravel/mud driveway during autumn, before it snows, on nights that are going to be cold I put it in low range since frozen mud holds the tire tighter than just ice. It's a good idea to put a vehicle into low range before parking it in very low temps as well since the transfer case will warm up quicker with less strain on the motor and transmission, at lower speeds which is easier on the axles. At subzero (F.) temps I drive about 0.5 km in low range. Not in the Unimog, low range is 5.76:1.

Charlie
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  #18  
Old 9 Oct 2007
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Thanks a lot!
First of all: thanks a lot for all ur advise. I feel sort of prepared and have some pretty good ideas what to do.

In fact, my Cruiser has already 3 batteries - one of them used for the fridge and gagets like this. I guesss I won't need the fridge up in Siberia, so I will connect all 3 batteries. Also,. there is a "blanket" in front of the radiator.

The only thing which keeps me worrying a bit is the motor: it's a 1996 Turbo-Diesel with 24Valves and 6 cylinders - does anybody have experience with this motor and additives or petrol-blended Diesel?

Cheers,
Tobias
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  #19  
Old 9 Oct 2007
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Tobias,

Quote:
...so I will connect all 3 batteries.
If it's a 12V/24V stater Landcruiser, it's not a very good idea. You need either two or four batteries.

Quote:
does anybody have experience with this motor and additives or petrol-blended Diesel?
Your engine is like all other landcruiser diesel engines, so there's nothing special about this engine when it comes to additives. You will find that diesel powered cars are not the favourite local transport, but the natives will certainly teach you a few tricks.
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  #20  
Old 2 Nov 2007
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Having a Siberian day today and found this nice string of wintery of pix.
http://gelaendewagen.at/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=5693
Note the trucker who parked too long on those lethal warm tyres... ;-)
Fit ARB tyre coolers!


Ch
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  #21  
Old 3 Nov 2007
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Flame down the throat
There is a technique I have used down to -45c to start engines that have fuel at the injectors and will turn over on the starter of putting a flame into the inlet manifold while turning the engine over foot to floor. If I had one to hand it would be a small propane gas blow torch if not some rolled up newspaper ( dont let the paper get sucked in when the engine fires)as close to the cylinder head as you can convenienly get, remove the air flter if required. The idea is that for what ever reason the compression is not raising the airin the cylinder above the spontaneouse ignition temperature of the fuel.Boiling point of propane is about -40c and butane about 0 c below these temperatures torches and stoves will not work.
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  #22  
Old 3 Nov 2007
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Same
It's a variation on what I said previously and does work - "oily rag soaked in diesel, held in your barbecue tongs, set alight and put close to the air inlet so that the hot gasses are sucked in when you turn the engine over."
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  #23  
Old 3 Nov 2007
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The flame from a Tiger torch [ heavy duty propane torch ] placed directly in the intake will usually get an engine going .But not always, as the very cold steel of the engine will suck away the heat of the flame .
I've used coffee cans with about 2 inches of diesel in them , set alight and placed under the engine for 20 minutes or so .
There is a very real danger of fire , but ,placed under the sump, it will heat up the engine block enough to allow the engine to start .
A 4 foot length of stove pipe and a Tiger torch is better .
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