Hello overlanders,

I am due to drive through Siberia in February-March 2008 with my 1996 Land-Cruiser 4.2 Turbo-Diesel.

Since it will be very cold, I was wondering what to do in order to keep the Diesel running.

Does anyone have some experiences or hints?

I would really appreciate!
Thx a lot,
Tobias

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In 2 years around the world by 4x4
PanMundo.Com

Tobias,
You should find some answers on this thread :

http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...diesel+heating


A Webasto/Eiberspacher with the warm coolant pipes routed around your fuel system is the way to go as Luke suggested

- or an alternative is a 110/240 Volt block/circulating coolant heater and a small petrol generator - though lugging a gene around is a pain.


I Have a question for the Guys with the Webato/Eiber set ups - are they on a thermostat or can you get them to run 100% duty ?- which are the best models to use - experiences ?

later
Grif

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Grif

'11 KTM 450 EXC
'09 Suzuki DR650
'00 Discovery Series 2 V8
'95 Defender 90 300 Tdi Overlander
http://gipperstravels.blogspot.ca

saw a TV programme, where Russian truckers lit small fires under their truck Diesel tanks to liquefy the solidified Fuel...

Cant you pick a warmer country? Spain is nice..........

Oh, the Eberspacher is probably by far the better option if your tank is a PLASTIC one too........

I've read as well the indicated thread but there's still one or two points I think are worthy of mention. I apologise if it's a case of grandmother and suction of eggs, but anyway -
as diesel gets colder it passes through a "cloud point" to a "waxing point". This can be just a degree or two below freezing depending on the quality of the fuel.
It's the waxing point that you need to be careful of.
But first -

Battery.
Make sure it's in good condition and all connections are clean and tight. The colder it is the worse it is.
I've had to resort to taking it to bed with me to keep it warm. I've also had to warm it up by putting it on top of a pan of boiling water on my stove. I've put it to sleep overnight with a blanket, a hot water bottle and my teddy bear. I've seen people pouring boiling water over it to warm it up, but I'm not sure that's a good thing.
When your battery seems dead and unresponsive, wait and warm it up (funnily enough it seems to work with my wife as well)

Fuel lines - maybe insulate them, definitely try and run them in places out of the wind and/or near the engine. Make sure there is no water in the filter or lines (obviously it will freeze and block it all up). If you're running in very cold weather and the engine stops, you try and bleed it but no fuel comes through, often the filters clog up first with the wax. I've used a blow torch to warm them up (only metal cased filters). Then try and bleed it again. I've also changed the filter for a new one at the side of the road, kept the old one until it thawed out, rinsed it out with clean fuel, and then re-used it.

Oil - make sure you are using the right grade of oil, especially with a turbo motor. Not good when the oil is too thick on start up and the turbo doesn't get it's fair share.

Park at night out of the wind or at least arse on to it.

Starting - mentioned before was an aerosol to help recalcitrant engines (I know it as "Easy Start"). It does help but anecdotal evidence suggests if you use it a lot then the engine doesn't seem to want to start at any other time without it. Don't know if there is some technical reason for it or even if it is true, I just know I've had diesels that wont get out of bed without it.

Better idea for starting on cold mornings - oily rag soaked in diesel, held in your barbecue tongs, set alight and put close to the air inlet so that the hot gasses are sucked in when you turn the engine over.
Maybe understand or practice the idea of turning the engine over using a rope and jacked up rear wheel for when your battery is really dead.

You can put a percentage of petrol in your diesel to lower the waxing point. It is debatable as to what percentage is acceptable and it is better if you don't use it at all. What I do know is that for a short period of time (85 km's) I used a mix of 25% to get me out of the sh*t. Definately not recommended.

~

I put a 4 % of petrol in the dieseltank in colder regions (South America though...) and had no waxing even at -25C. Have been told that this mixture also cleans up the injector system. Dont know if it is true but at over 300.000 km the engine of my Landcruiser (PZJ75) is still untouched and running as new.

G·day all,
mixing a certain % of petrol with the diesel can·t be bad; a lot of taxi drivers do it precisely to keep injectors clean as mentioned!
A bit like vodca for humans!
Cheers .... Dan

Tobias

Read the travelogues linked in the threads mentioned here. You will learn what Russian drivers do to keep going. Here is the basic advice - turn off the engine only if you must and park the car only in enclosed spaces.

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Roman (UK)

Most of the loggers around here add 2 stroke oil to winter diesel , it has great lubricating properties and also any excess will burn away without leaving heavy deposits .
Avoid using ether if you can but if you absolutely have to use it , use it sparingly .An excess will blow head gaskets and warp cylinder heads , I've seen it happen [ no it wasn't me !] and it is quite spectacular .

Use synthetic oil in the engine as well , 0/30 or equivalent ,check the specs of the oil for it's pour point ,aim for about -50C.

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Blessed are the cracked, for they let in the light. - Spike Milligan
"When you come to a fork in the road ,take it ! When you come to a spoon in the road ,take that also ."

Many good advicec here. An webasto/ebersprächer is essential. A set off good and large batteries is a must. Maybee seting up a 3rd battery for the webasto/eber. so you dont drain the starter batteries. Toyota turbo diesels with direct injection is wery easy to start, never had a problem with mine well bellow the -30 C.Even when standing in this temperatur for several days. No need to let the engine idle through the night at -20 C, or even at -35 C.

I would think the diesel in russia have the additives added for kepping it liquid.

Look after your batteries and electric system and you should be ok i think.

Do your LC have the "blancket" in front of the radiator? Have this pulled down.

Frode

Avoid using ether [Easystart] .... An excess will blow head gaskets and warp cylinder heads , I've seen it happen..

I can attest to that. I had a recovery service bring about the ruin of a 2.25 LR diesel engine (broken crank a couple of days later) after a quick squirt to get it running.

Interesting to know that modern high pressure/CRDs don't like mixing it up. Another reason to stick with old diesels in the wilds.

I've also had a 60-series hand brake not disengage at -10 or so until the car was running for a while. I've also heard that parking on ice with low psi tyres warmed from a day's run can see them freeze to the ice overnight - though no sure if this is an urban myth.

Ch

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Morocco Overland 4 (2025) • Trans Morocco Trail

[
I've also had a 60-series hand brake not disengage at -10 or so until the car was running for a while. I've also heard that parking on ice with low psi tyres warmed from a day's run can see them freeze to the ice overnight - though no sure if this is an urban myth.
]

It happens all the time but the torque reduction in low gear, particularly low range breaks it loose. When I park my smaller vehicles in my gravel/mud driveway during autumn, before it snows, on nights that are going to be cold I put it in low range since frozen mud holds the tire tighter than just ice. It's a good idea to put a vehicle into low range before parking it in very low temps as well since the transfer case will warm up quicker with less strain on the motor and transmission, at lower speeds which is easier on the axles. At subzero (F.) temps I drive about 0.5 km in low range. Not in the Unimog, low range is 5.76:1.

Charlie

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