Hi all, with our central american trip drawing to an end we're enroute back up to the USA. it's been great, but I have to say life would be easier with a RHD . . . .anyhow, I'm plannning on storing the landy in arizona for a year or so until the funds can be raised for a trip to south america. I wondered if anyone had stored a vehicle for long periods and could offer any advice. ie/ should the fuel tank be full, or empty, clutch engaged or disengaged, wheels removed, blocks under chassis or axles . etc etc.
Many thanks
Huey

Hey Huey,
Ive stored my 90 for 2 years in the UK - while I was working overseas, I just disconnected the batteries, covered the interior over with a sheet to stop uv damage came back 2 years later, trickle charged the battery for a day reconnected - was fine.
Before starting - (Diesel) starve it of fuel - ie open a bleed screw in the system and cover with a cloth (to cover any fuel spray ) and turn over the engine for 5-10 seconds to get the oil out of the sump - and up top in the engine, then bleed system and start - saves wear on components.
For a petrol remove the rotor arm and do similar.
The only problem I had was the brake caliper pistons - where part of the pistons were exposed with part worn pads the pistons had corroded - on the rear disks- so had to change them with a pad change.

You shouldn't have that problem in Arizona, as its nice and dry.

I would put it up on axle stands/ wood so the tyres dont flat spot and cover the tyres up - again for uv damage, disconnect the battery, are you petrol or diesel ?
I would drain a petrol system - carb etc as the fuel 'gases off' and after a long while goes bad - making starting difficult.

For a diesel I would just leave a little fuel in the tank and system as it is less volatile and doesn't go 'bad' as readily.
Then fill up with fresh diesel on your return - even if the diesel degrades a little it will be diluted with fresh soon after starting.
The clutch should be ok - again with the lack of humidity - make sure your hand brake is off and if you have rear drums - slacken the adjusters and make sure the wheels free wheel ok before you leave it.

Fully charge the batteries before you leave them - they last better charged.

Give the bonnet release cable a good lube with an oil based lube - supertrol, or even some kero/diesel or maybe silicon grease if you have it as the first thing on your return is the cable wont release the bonnet !
Finally give it a good wash off before storage - any salt on it will do your chassis no good while you are away.

Cheers
Grif

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Ex Rockape, Ex Drago,
LR 90 300 Tdi Overlander - Lighter than CF 80 Fridge
Ex Suzuki DR650 Overlander *Stolen - L185 KDA *
..and Bloody Nice Bloke!

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Cheers
Grif

'11 KTM 450 EXC
'09 Suzuki DR650
'00 Discovery Series 2 V8
'95 Defender 90 300 Tdi Overlander
http://gipperstravels.blogspot.ca

thanks for all advice Grif.
mines a 200tdi. regarding the deisel bleeding, the olny screw I know of to release is the bleed screw on top of the fuel filter, is it the fuel in the filter instelf that I'd be trying to purge? also, I guess I could get the oil moving pre starting by removing the cut out wire from the fuel pump solonoid?
couple of other things I wondered about: both my brake clutch fluid need changing (very dark) - should I do this before storing, of when I return. Also, there will be a fair amount of weight in the landy (spare parts etc), will having blocks under the axles only squash the springs into submission, so to speak?
cheers
Huey

Huey, no problem,
After returning to the vehicle I'd do an oil and filter change and a fuel filter change - before doing anything - thinking back Im pretty sure I did the same - you get nice new oil in the sump to restart with and that way after putting some fresh fuel in the tank, you get rid of most of the old diesel when you change the fuel filter - you can remove the soleniod wire or just crank the engine before priming and bleeding fuel system to turn the engine over without firing - yes thats the only bleed screw on the top of the filter housing - you can also slacken the fuel return pipe union on the the pump if its full of air - though ive never needed to do that on a Tdi as they always fire up no problem.
Doing this procedure is not really essential but I always do it after working on 15 Litre V8 diesel truck engines with 18 litres of oil in the sump (just press the exhaust brake to prevent starting) where it takes a good few seconds to get the oil up in the top of the engine - after a year without running it's a good idea I think to prevent wear.
As for brake and clutch fluid, if you think you may have any water in the fluid - you may have if its getting dark, change it now, to prevent corrosion, otherwise I would do it on your return - while in the USA I'd make use of the good prices over there and change the brake fluid to silicon - it is non hydroscopic and lasts much much loinger than normal fluid - just make sure you flush the system out thouroughly - its a lot cheaper over the pond !!!
As for the springs, it doesnt matter if the weight is on the wheels or on the axle casings - it makes no difference to the springs - They will be fine - id try and use wood though if available - metal on metal contact doesnt do anything any good - better to spread the weight a little more over a softer surface - cut up railway sleepers work a treat. -
Is it stored in a secure area ? just thinking of wheels in the air - have you locking wheel nuts ?
Thats all I can think of.... just make sure tyres and dash/interior are covered - that Arizona sun is pretty fierce !

Im hoping to ship my 90 to South America at the end of the year - ish so any decent relevent info will be posted on the HUBB

Cheers
Grif

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Cheers
Grif

'11 KTM 450 EXC
'09 Suzuki DR650
'00 Discovery Series 2 V8
'95 Defender 90 300 Tdi Overlander
http://gipperstravels.blogspot.ca

Slightly OT, but I'm wondering how you're getting around the customs rules about keeping a vehicle in the US for over a year? I'm assuming you're a visitor and it's a non-US registered vehicle. If it is, it's an easy answer!

Good staorage advice too. I have two 90's stored near Denver and as it's inside and low humidity there's never any major probs. The 110 is in Sunderland in the UK and that's ok too. A little more humid there though...

Nick.

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Nick Taylor
www.exerro.com
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Vehicle Specs

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Nick Taylor, a Colorado Mack'em
blog | vehicles

Hi Nick, a good question. when I shipped the landy to Newark it was all a bit odd. Customs house gave me a form that looks like a photcopy of a photocopy, but scrawled across it "must export with 4 years". Am currently in Mexico heading north, so will find out whether its kosher in about 3 weeks time. If not, I guess they'll give me a year, in which time I'll just have to come back and head south again. shame!
out of interest, what do you pay to store your landys, and would you reccomend the location?
cheers
Huey