Waiting in the cold and dark for embarkation, I had to stand by the bike at the head of queue 2. Those others on four wheels assembled in other queues, so I had a cone all to myself. A rather lovely woman asked if I'd like to sit in the car with them as it was so cold. Truthfully I said thanks of course but I wouldn't fit in with big boots and so much leg insulation. Later on the ferry I saw her and she said she'd felt sorry for me alone in addition to the cold. Lyon she replied when I asked where in France she came from. Touching concern. I like France generally rather a lot.
Somewhat lighter, having left the kebab in the gents, I went below decks, mounted my steed and grandly landed on English soil. I was surprised when I simply passed through. Perfect for showing my passport and doffing my helmet. Waved past by customs. A loaded bike in mid winter. So that's how the Moroccan skunk, hand guns and explosives get into UK!
I parked and locked the bike under the huge security lamps and walked up to my mate, John's, house. I only just remembered the English male welcome rather than an embrace and kisses! We chatted and giggled til stupidly late then he gave me a lift home the 6 miles to Brighton. The bike has since been trailered to now sit beside and locked to my dormant Moto Guzzi. Wow. That little lark got off too late and with too much money spent before embarking on it. At last I know where the cable for my electrically heated vest is. There on the table! FU**! I had been going to attach it to a cigar lighter plug and left it there. Oh. what might have been!

I am now going somewhat crazy in waiting for the photos to come. I hope beyond hope they are good. If anyone wants a much longer account, I kept a diary and can post such if wanted. The Montenegro section warrants it definitely.

In a nutshell, the roads are very traffic-free in the Balkans, the Croatian coast road is utterly blissful. The Balkans are now getting to be tourist honey trap-like but Montenegro is not so. The roads are rewarding, the scenery grand. The people are friends you've not yet met. Go, they're waiting for us. Best bike for summer? The very bike you own now.

And finally, all thoughts to Damien. He's getting better slowly, the best way to begin. I wish him the best. He didn't deserve this experience. He began on one journey and must complete another now. Perhaps when he's recovered he will want to revisit Europe. I'm sure many would extend hands of welcome. Break a Leg, Lindsay.

I've been following this thread for a while anxiously the story. Definitely worth the wait! You are a true adventurer at heart, pretty ambitious to travel that distance through all those cccccold places in the dead of winter. Its 80 deg. F here with palm trees swayin in the tradewinds and hard to relate such concepts as snow, ice, freezing, etc.!

Hi Thermal, happy new year to you. Simply go to the fridge, skip the s and put your hand in the freezer for half an hour. Seriously though, it was only discomfort level. I kept above shivering level which is a warning sign. A crazy Scots comic, Billy Connoly once said, "There's no such thing as bad weather. Only the wrong clothes!" Well said that man!
At the other extreme I'm sure you know about running the line with heat stroke and the like. I don't know how I'll afford it but I've long intended to visit Morocco.I want to go deliberately in mid summer to test the conditions, kit and techniques. I don't expect it to be anything other than close to hell, but memorable!
My ever so laid back, cool friend, a yoga teacher once left saying," Take it easy, Lindsay". I returned, without thought, " No, push the limits".
I can't help it I just like a bit more than the normal boring, comfy routine.

Have a lie on the beach and a for me. Linzi.

you dont like the easy options do you linzi? epic story bud im in awe of it.

oh & thanks, now ive got the balkans on my ever expanding list of places ive not been yet

Hi Hooli. Yep,"It didn't quite go to plan" could be the title! As for the Balkans, there's a market for used, late model bikes out there. It could be a good idea to go, tour, sell and fly back. When I find the Trebinje club website address again I'll post it in the Balkan section. They told me of bike meets in Bosnia: Trebinje, Mostar, then the biggie, in Sarajevo. 2nd, 3rd and 4th weekends in June '09. The Bosnian who checked the bike, added coolant and rear brake fluid, and got the waterproof bag, has a BMW 1150GS still with its Swiss plates. He's just imported it. If you do go, check before going off-road as there are still land mines around in Bosnia! I shall email the helpful Bosnian who first made contact with me--just to guide me to a hotel! These guys are at least as enthusiastic as we are and well up to speed on all to do with 2 wheels. Linzi.

cheers for the tips Linz, if i do go it'll be in a few years. currently i'll be lucky to have a couple of weeks touring spain or somewhere equally close.

NOTE to ALL - there is a limit on the maximum number of characters in a post - but it's pretty large - 25,000! - so is unlikely to be the problem here. Also, if there are too many characters, you WILL get a message telling you so, how many you have submitted, and the limit.

TIP:
Always, on all forums, and any time posting on the web, at least select all the text (ctrl-A) and copy it to the clipboard (ctrl-C) before pressing submit!

__________________
Grant Johnson
Seek, and ye shall find.
------------------------
Inspiring, Informing and Connecting travellers since 1997!
www.HorizonsUnlimited.com

Linz! That was SOOOME story I take my hat off to you. If you're at the HU in either Ripley or Germany, I'll buy you a pint, or a coffeee if it's something warm you want.

Hi, thanks. It is nice to get feedback. I'll check the HUBB meetings. I hadn't been thinking of them as I am almost penniless and can't even think of a long trip. I had a hoot of a time in my own way. I shall definitely post the long version beginning next week when I sort out getting it from Word to HUBB. I am absolutely desperate that I can support it with some photos but I am sceptical. Cheers, Linzi.

Having checked the date for the Ripley meeting, I'll try to make it. Tomorrow I'll go to the bank as I need some money. I'll check out their security! Linzi.

ive tried to make sense of what i think is the ripley thread, cant see any dates, definate locations though -

18-21 June as I see it listed under meetings. Linzi.

Below the Forums HUBB box is Meetings, scroll down and UK meetings gives the dates. Linzi.

cheers, i'll go & look.

you can have your thread back now

Of Warm Hearts and Cold Nights

In darkness and sheets of heavy rain I arrive. Mojkovac staion, Montenegro. I've already donned my Hi Viz goretix bomber jacket.
The hand-me-down German Railways train leaves. Its graffitied form
slithering into the dark haze. Look out guys! He's here.
Yes, I'm here in a biblical downpour. I squint through the rain. Where's the ark? Oh the cold! A flurry of cars carries off the other passengers. Alone in the dark and rain I ponder my options. My holdall isn't waterproof.
Damn. The worst conditions for using a bivi bag. I can't get into it without getting soaked. I have the phone numbers of several people, but at this late hour I'm not prepared to disturb any of them.
The train has been delayed hours on two occasions and was much later than expected. Google Earth tells me it's at least 400 metres to the first building, but I don't know where the hotels are. Twenty metres and the holdall will be soaked. So much for keeping the planning open. I ignore the inevitable wetting and get on with the job in hand: progress towards town.

A new Mercedes Sprinter van pulls up and the young driver runs accross. No common language, he grabs the situation and my bag. Straight into the side door and me into the passenger seat. I'm not arguing. Turning down the radio, with the wipers pumping freneticaly. Hotel? He tries. My hesitancy is sensed. (Rock bottom cheap, or under a bridge please). I've got a tight budget and can't let it get out of hand. Not after the immigration officer's favour and the Beograd hotel rip-off.
A scrap of paper. A phone number. The two brothers who rescued Damien and live here in Mojkovac. The similarity of Serbian and English for chaos and the word for basement, that I already know from the hotel's lift. Given the torrential rain I conclude that all is not well at that particular house tonight.