As an alternative you might want to consider the crossing a bit further north near Karsava. I used it last July because I’d heard that Zilupe can have long queues while the Karsava crossing is pretty empty. The day before I crossed I had a look at both and while Zilupe was busy Karsava was empty, so I opted for the latter: crossing took 2 hours & border guards were very friendly & helpful.

Probably me that said it didn’t exist: last July that was pretty true for the stretch between Kunya & Shakhovskaya, about 300km. I was warned not to take it, but didn’t have an alternative; I remember I didn’t see another bike on that stretch of road. The problem was that was where the repairs were, it was often reduced to a single lane & the surface was terrible & made worse by days of rain. A better rider than me and a more appropriate bike - like a GS - would have found it easier. But you still have to deal with all the deathwish maniacs in trucks, buses, beat-up Zhigulis & SUVs with blacked-out windows: there are a lot of very nasty accidents on that road.

It may well have improved since I was on it. The construction work is temporary - at least in theory - and the bits where work was completed were fine: there just weren’t very many of those last summer. I’m reluctantly planning to ride back on it to Estonia in a couple of weeks: can you remember where the construction work was in April? It may help my planning.

For accommodation I stayed at the Volyn Country Club, which is about 30 km south of the M9 between Velikiye Luki & Kunya. It’s on a hard to find dirt road, turn off is at a GAI post. All wooden houses by a lake, much nicer than the usual Russian motel.