attached is a sketch of where to put the four fixing points for an off road truck with open U section chassis rails. The some of the axle articulation comes from the flex designed into the chassis.

Tubular chassis rails like LR, Bremach, Tatra (well sort of) give significantly lower flex and you can get away with direct or rubber bush mounting along the rails.

Keep some of the caravan chassis, it will be less likely to fall apart if it's on its original support structure. You can always twin the rear wheels if you feel the track is too narrow for the height.
Luke

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How's parts availablity for Iveco engines in north Africa?

Hi,
The engine block is a Sofim, the same as the peugeot /citroen/fiat Boxer jumper ducato.
The turbo is either KKK or Garrett; a standard model for most non-jap 2.5 TDs
The injection is Bosch
The timing is by chain so you don't have to think about that.

The starter is F'ing hard to get to without dismantling the exhaust system, but it's a Magnetti unit
The alternator is a fairly standard magnetti marelli job, I found an 80 amp one that fitted for not much in a car parts dealer.

Clutch is a big and expensive hgv one, if you're a novice dune basher it might be worth taking one along. We set off with 40000kms on our clutch without a spare; 30000kms later around WA there was no difference. In most of Europe it's a 4T truck derated to 3.5T, but it's the same powertrain that's mounted on the 6T 4x2 Dailys you see in the UK; ours weighs 5T.

CS's book talks about what spares to take, add the injector piping that is specific to that engine layout, take a few sets of filters and you should be fine. (FYI an oil filter at the importer in Togo was double the European price!)

Tip to save fuel filters/injection pumps: fit huge tanks, then you can be more choosy about where you fill up

I prefer to rely on DHL and a dealer at home, if you're careful you should be able to avoid breaking anything big.

I must stop going on about how good they are.
Daily 4x4 fan
Luke

Hi Luke, thanks for the sketch, as I have not bought a caravan yet I have no idea what the original chassis will be like, although I am presuming they are all roughly the same as the ones I have looked at. these seem to have the wooden floor of the caravan bolted directly to the said chassis, can I not take it off of that and then make my own diamond (two triangle) chassis bolt the caravan to that and then bolt the diamond as you suggest to the Iveco chassis? Should I use rubber mountings and if so what type? I have seen other boxes with rail type chassis bolts to the truck with u-bolts like leaf spring u-bolts. Am I looking for something as flexible as possible?
You seem to be very knowledgable on this subject, is it something you have done yourself?

Luke whats the plated weight of your iveco? As mine weights 5 ton too.

It's plated at 3.5T!
I keep on wondering where the weight is, as a camper van's essentially an empty box!
It must be the marine ply the guy built the walls from, although the 2x130l fuel tanks, the 150l water tank, the winch, the genny/aircon and its 60l tank don't help :-)
To take the load he swapped the rear studs for the long version (standard Iveco 2wd part) and twinned up the rear wheels. Makes it 2.2m wide which helps for stability too.

Luke

I spoke to iveco uk on friday, who said i can upplate to 4.5 ton(£265 for a paper exercise).but as leaving uk tomorrow so will have to wait till i get back next spring.Have 900x16 xs tyres which can carry the load but a bit twitchy on corners.but hoping to change to xzl's when back from trip,anyone got experience with xzl's on iveco?

Hi folks

just bought seconed hand swb 4x4 iveco 1993 hope fully will transport me and partner on two year in 2008. A bit concerned about room thought of cutting off rear body of van and replacing with grp body to try and get extra couple of feet on rear and six inches on sides. Grays world did you ever fix on a caravan body and how did it work?

Sorry if Ihave butted in on someone elses thread but couldnt work out how to start new one. Luckly my parctical skills are better than my computer skills.

cheers Mark
suffering the daily grind to fund a life of adventure

Hi, welcome to the in hurried half deaf crowd
structurally you could cut off the back and put something else on, as they have a real chassis so the body isn't structural.
It's not something to take lightly; the DVLA might have something to say about it, but then seeing what Foley and others do with LRs there must be a way to keep them happy.


XZL tyres under an Iveco: I only have experience of the 7.5x16 and 235x85x26 on 5.5 rims and I'm happy.
Very good up front, wobbly as a high tyre is they are progressive so you get plenty of warning that you're pushung an OR tyre too hard on the tar.
On the back I've mixed 2 XZY inside and 2 XZL outside in 7.5 x 16.
The combination would have done well over the 60000 oddkm it had already done if I hadn't blown out one of the Y's (thank you Hassan
Put another Y in its place (off the front so same kms) and we're still on them (just)
What I like about the Ls is there are no steel radials to fatigue when you run them soft, so the shell is supple and bends around angry rocks rather than piercing.

Pity they're so expensive, but I suppose you get what you pay for.
Enjoy the planning
Luke

As most of this type of vehicle are regarded as commercials, inc Land Rover the DVLA, police etc expect the bodies/bodyworkk will be played with - read chopped about. And will poss morph with different owners, so as long as the vehicle can pass an mot you will have no problems on that front.

Chris

__________________
ChrisC

Well people we may be in the minority (land cruisers and landrovers everywhere!) but we know we've got the best !
So i got my ex RAF 4x4 finally converted and very happy indeed with the little beasty.
Now having read the threads i reckon that you experienced users may be able to help me a little.

wheels & tyres ?
running Michelin XZY's are these preferable to the BF Goodrich All terrain 235/85 ?
split rims ? i am being told these will be hell to fix out in the field ? any body got advice on this ? should i perhaps be looking to change for more standard ? either way i only have 5 and 6 would be better - anybody know location of 1 ?

handbook ? being ex military i got nothing, does anybody have copy of any form of handbook (std or workshop manual), maybe a scanned or digital version if not an original - bloody annoying when don't know what warning lights mean !!!

raised air intake ? where can i buy one from ?????

Speedo is playing up, was intermittent but now stopped altogether, anyone know is it electronic or just a cable (i've been told both !!!!) ???

Anybody know of any tips to tune engine and improve that power slightly ???

I need a compressor !!!!! ????

Thanks
Phil.

Having been considering getting something soon to overland in I was reading through this thread two days ago.

Suprise, suprise, I saw an Iveco 4x4 pulling out of a nearby supermarket yesterday afternoon on local plates (11) all ready for an overland trip. Looked as if it had been converted to a unimog type box on it.

Couldn't see much more without causing an accident; it was dark green or blue - does it belong to someone on here who's in France?! I was extremely jealous!!!

Kira

Tyres i ran a/t's (colways bfg remoulds & cheaper) for 4 mths around maroc with only 1 flat & as on spit rims easy to change.I took 6 tyres & 5 rims as your unlikely to destroy 1 rim let alone 2(saves weight too).
I've tried air tanks (2 heavy) ended up using 2 fan assisted truck pumps i brought off internet(will post details when i find them)
Air intake iveco part only about £160,also ask service dept, if you can photocopy some pages from manual.
Speedo electric usually sensor fault at g/box.
Not tried any tuning or chipping YET!(any advise welcome).
Is yours 1 of the ex mountain rescue panel vans or ambulance?

Hi Phil, which bit of Taffy land are you? I have a full set of workshop manuals you can copy. I agree with moodybloo, 5 rims are fine and splits are easy, (but practice!) Can't fault Michelin. The 2.5 isn't chiped so the only way to make more power is to open up the fuel pump and increase boost or intercool, only the latter will not affect reliability.
Regards
Bruce

The thing I like about HUBB is it works !!
"thankyou" - to both 'MOODYBLOO' & 'CEDAR'. Clarified some of my questions.

My 35-10 was one of the RAF mountain rescue vehicles, body work little rusty and certainly the paint looks worse for wear BUT that's all just cosmetic, very sound where it counts ! take a look : http://www.travel.uklinux.net/piccies

MOODYBLOO : thanks for the speedo problem suggestion, is this something you've had problems with & solved ? looks a right awkward spot to get to and wondering if worth effort to 'attempt' a fix. Would appreciate input from anyone who has actually fixed before I go digging in !
Air Tanks - yep appreciate info when you have chance to find.

CEDAR : 'taffy land' ? right in the middle my friend, nearest town is Welshpool (mid wales) about 45mins from Telford. BUT - i'm not there ! on route to Turkey at moment (via Switzerland) ! I could really do with the user manual (cab copy) if possible, but unfortunately difficult to get to me ! can suggest either you could scan and send, or possibly if photocopied have address in UK where it could be sent to.
I realise this is an absolute 'pain in the' and don't worry if it's too much hassle, many thanks for offer and of course if you did get done i would obviously pay for any costs incurred - cheers.

BOTH - thanks for info on 'split rims' you have reassured me that perhaps they are not the terrors I was thinking ! You both suggest that easy to change, any tips ?

Thanks again guys, cheers.
P.