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Old 1 May 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Singaporedream View Post

1) battery broke down in Pakistan on my km6000. bike can’t start but now I changed the new rectifier and new battery. I notice that the 3 yellow wire that’s connected from the alternator to the rectifier is very hot. I cut off the plug (corroded) and connect the wires directly. when engine is off, its about 12v. when engine start and idling, its about 14v-14.5v. when engine at 3000-4000 RPM, it drops to 13V. is this normal?
It sounds wrong to me..where did you get the R/R from? here is the specs that you should get:
  1. Battery Output (across + and – terminals) (engine at operating temp) Honda Spec =14-15.0Vdc
  2. Battery Leak test (between (-) pole of battery and (-) lead
    Honda Spec= 0.1mA
  3. Alternator test: Resistance
    Between three yellow wires loom side of rectifier connection (rectifier/regulator disconnected).
    Honda spec = 0.1-1.0Ω Continuity
    Between three yellow wires loom side of rectifier connection (rectifier/regulator disconnected) and ground.
    Honda spec = OL (infinity)


    Output (Vac) Between three yellow wires loom side of rectifier connection (rectifier/regulator disconnected).
    At 500rpm Honda spec >50Vac But all should be equal.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Singaporedream View Post
2) I had a full clutch servicing before the trip. now I have difficulty engaging the gears. very very hard. when I stop the bike on gear 1, having the clutch engaged, the bike still moves. couldn’t get to neutral gear on such position unless I put on some throtter. I tried to adjust the clutch free play, lesser, making the biting point further but doesn’t make much different. even I have changed new engine oil and new sprockets+chain. what could have happen? will a clutch cable be pulled longer after some time and had to be replaced? is there something wrong with my clutch? how can I check?
What do you mean by clutch servicing? NEW ONE? It sounds like the clutch is slipping to me.
okay
What grade/type oil are you using.. remember..fully synth, with friction modifiers are NO GOOD.. the AT has a wet cluch you need some friction. the modern oil for hi-performance bikes is not what we need.. I run mineral deisel BTW. see here http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...torcycle-34615.
Also how much oil is in it when this is happening..
Suggestion one is to look at the oil..

If it is not the oil.... Do you have it a centre stand? if so up it up. tighten the cluch cable so you can feel it, start the bike and put it in first.. the rear wheel should move.. but you should be able to stop it easily with your foot or hand... If you cant play with the play until you can.. if you can never.. change the cable as step one.. repeat above.. if that has not fixed it.. your clutch is bad. it could be the plates or just the springs (it does not sound like selector arm to me)... cant tell from here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Singaporedream View Post
3) I am crusing at 80km/hr at 3500rpm with my top gear. I had 3 of the 50liters boxes full load, 43 liters tank, some extra bags in front, my wife and I weighs about 120kg total. is this normal?
That much weight .. yeah it is okay


Quote:
Originally Posted by Singaporedream View Post
4) if i’m crusing at 4000rpm with my top gear for some distance, or going thro uphilling roads which requires at many times using lower gear with 4000-4500rpm climbing… my engine oil burns out. on average, I need to top up 2 liters of new engine oil for every 5000km distance. how can I get this repaired?
Also not a huge deal but i would check you valve clearances to make sure that you are not out.. (it should be done evey 12000 miles any way).. Also see the oil comments above.. Hi-spec stuff cant deal with the AT configuration, and will burn off faster...

Good luck
and let us know
Xander
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