I bought a 2006 990 Adventure a few weeks ago. I suspect it had a weak battery when I bought it and after leaving it for about 10 days in temperatures below freezing, it was pretty low - not enough to start it. So, I removed the battery and charged it. Put it back in and it started and went for a ride. Quite quickly the engine started missing at low revs and the display kept on resetting itself. At higher revs, things seemed to sort themselves out until I slowed down for a roundabout. The engine cut out and all I got when I turned the ignition on is a faint, rapid clicking noise coming from the clocks/ignition system. I thought that maybe the battery was useless, so I bought a new one. Just installed it and it hasn't fixed the problem. When I turn on the ignition, I just get the faint, rapid clicking sound. I have tried removing fuses to identify which system it's coming from, but it continues anyway. I'm now thinking it's a terminal (i.e. dead) ECU - any thoughts?

I know nothing about KTMS, but what you describe could be the ignition relay trying to "engage"; a relay is just a fancy switch and because there is a high current needed for the starter circuit a relay is used to switch on that circuit - otherwise there would be a very large switch required on your handlebars in order to handle the starter ampage.
If it is the relay, it could be sticking - so give it a bang or two - or it might be knackered.

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Dave

Battery is buggered and new one is not charged fully - suggest charge overnight with decent trickle ampage and try again. What you are describing is classic low battery syndrome.

Probably low battery as mentioned, or possible bad connection at the battery terminals - make sure they're snug and not damaged. Either way it is definitely battery/charging system related.

If the problem persists, a good place to check is the main ignition relay, which is located on the bottom right, beneath the skid plate (if sitting on the bike). The two battery cables join the relay here and the connections can get corroded (look closely and one of the cables, i think the +'ve, has a tiny copper tab that can get worn).

May be worth checking the voltage being thrown out by the regulator too, but it does'nt sound like this is the cause going by your description of events.

Hope that helps. Keep us posted

Thanks for your input, now an update :confused1:

I found the relays where the clicking is coming from - there are a cluster of 4 behind the speedo and the 2 inner relays are the ones making the noise. There is a good 12V going to all the relays when ignition is switched on. However, these are not the problem as I switched one over and same thing happens.

I have checked the relay where the battery terminals go and they are fine. I get 12V at the battery and this relay and even earthed to the engine. I have now put the new battery back on charge but I did charge it before installing it and so I'm not holding out much hope that this will fix it.

Nah, battery's low - let us know how it goes when fully charged and what the voltmeter reads when revving the engine (assuming you can start it); could also try and jump start it off another battery e.g. car which you know is good....

After spending some time properly taking things apart, I found something similar to this: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=1088

I also found a corroded termial and wires which go from the starter relay to the rectifier (red and white wires) which will also need sorting out with some new connectors.

Nice to see someone else has had it. Now all I have to do is make up a connector to the fuse...

Connected up and worked first time. It will need some tidying up down there, but I'm so pleased to have found the problem and temporarily fixed it.

So it looks like the same thing that garmei described, and it is a potential weak point from his description of the relay position on the bike - catching all the crud.
Keep it coming; so often fault finding threads peter out when a solution is discovered, the riding continues and only the bike owner knows the outcome!!

Would be interested in what the switches/relays behind the speedo do i.e. why are they clicking?

Did you get the bike from a dealer with warranty or privately purchased?

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Dave

I bought the bike privately - I'm generally happy to fix/live with any minor issues and you get it a lot cheaper.

Essentially, the connection on the starter relay was extremely weak, leading to the relays behind speedo clicking on and off. I assume they are some of the first relays the power goes to for the instrument panel. When I broke the weak connection on the starter relay, the instrument relays didnt click anymore.

Everything is now up and running but I will need to get some proper connectors and maybe a new starter relay (taped twisted wires and a wire jammed in the fuse holder at the moment).

It's a big current at 30 amps and I believe that can cause a greater amount of corrosion compared with wiring that carries smaller current.

Thanks for the feedback; always nice to have a happy ending!

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Dave

Yup, that's what I was on about. If you have the time please consider relocating the entire starter relay to a more sensible location (glove box and under seat storage are options). I have a bit of an ugly (but solid) repair there myself and it is on the list of things to do before the next big trip.

You'll need longer battery cables and longer wires to the regulator. The other four red and white wires that run down from the secondary fuse box/ECU area just need to be trimmed and re-routed. A guy called CPModem has done the same and documented it on Advrider so you could do a search to get a picture.

You already have a damaged +'ve cable and you said that the regulator wires are a bit corroded too, so it sounds like only a little more effort to get it done properly. When you remove some of the wiring sheething down there you'll be amazed at how bad the wiring is in this area - eight wires all soldered together in a big lump of solder. This is one of the weak points on the bike so consider yourself lucky you found out about it close to home!

The clicking in the secondary starter relay (behind the headlight) is caused by the constant intermittent (paradox?!) power supply coming from the main starter relay and there should be no ill effects to that circuit.

Hope that helps. Keep in touch and we could swap notes..

Arrrgghhh - just tried to start the bike this morning and the battery was mostly flat. Looks like I have a power drain somewhere and I'm sure it will be lots of fun finding the bloody thing.

Check the accessory leads under the dash - 1 set is activated by the ignition the other is permanently on, can't remember off the top of my head which colour is which.

Second advice is to check out the orange crush forum . On Adventure Rider Motorcycle Forum - some real lc8 experts on there (not saying there aren't here too).

After a quick charge, I got the bike started, rode about 20km to work and it started fine this evening for the trip home. I have taken out the ACC1 fuse (permanent power) overnight and hope the battery is good in the morning.