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Lifting roof on a Land Rover 110 Hard Top Lifting roof on a Land Rover 110 Hard Top
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Light Overland Vehicle Tech Tech issues, tips and hints, prepping for travel
Under 3500kg vehicles, e.g. Land Cruiser, Land Rover, Subaru etc.
Photo by Andy Miller, UK, Taking a rest, Jokulsarlon, Iceland

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Andy Miller, UK,
Taking a rest,
Jokulsarlon, Iceland



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  #16  
Old 16 May 2014
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Originally Posted by The Cameraman View Post
Hi John,

fine job.

Many years ago I had a Series 2A 109 that I fancied doing a lifting roof conversion to but, as you say, the costs were somewhat restrictive. Being only 5ft 4inch (on a good day) I was able to get away with a smaller height increase, so I contacted Macclesfield Motor Bodies, who supplied me with a fibre glass high top roof, which was designed for the recently launched (at the time) 110 Landie.

I removed the whole roof assembly, left the over cab area untouched (for structural rigidity) and cut away the rest, leaving a 2 inch overlap, through which I could drill, bond and rivet the new roof, to the old structure.

I really should buy myself a scanner and find my old negs of the build but seeing your work has reminded me of the great experience that the build gave me.

Good luck with the rest of the project.

Regards

Reggie
Thanks Reggie. Sounds like exactly the thought process I went through. Leaving the front roof for rigidity and a lip around the edge to fasten the new build to. It does make sense.

Get those negs out man! Be good to have a look at them some time.
Cheers
John
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  #17  
Old 19 May 2014
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Thanks for the info John.

Regards Graeme
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  #18  
Old 20 May 2014
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You may have covered this, steel and aluminium don't mix very well, especially through bolts or screws. You end up with corrosion around the bolt holes and eventually the alloy fails. Stainless Steel bolts are even worse. There are plenty of websites around that explain the electrical/chemical process - especially on Landrovers.
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  #19  
Old 21 May 2014
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Originally Posted by RogerM View Post
You may have covered this, steel and aluminium don't mix very well, especially through bolts or screws. You end up with corrosion around the bolt holes and eventually the alloy fails. Stainless Steel bolts are even worse. There are plenty of websites around that explain the electrical/chemical process - especially on Landrovers.
Hi Roger - yes thanks, well aware of the way the whole thing is perpetually trying to eat itself. It's always a trade off between fastenings that cant be undone because they're so corroded, and slow disintegration with stainless which offers a better chance of coming off again. To be honest I'm not sure which is the better option!

PS which reminds me of this in my collection of links: Sacrificial anodes on Land Rovers.
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  #20  
Old 22 May 2014
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I read something about those anodes years ago, probably on alt.vehicles.landrovers and the consensus was that you'd need to connect each non Birmabright part to the anode for it to be effective. Whilst I can read the theory of electrolytic corrosion, I'm not sure that I really understand all the swapping of electrons and production of salts.
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