We (a family of 4 americans) were just in Iran last week. Visas (obtained in China) were no problem - an "organised tour" is a requirement, but your "tour" can be a tour group of one (or, in our case, 4). We were well treated everywhere (though I must admit to being a little nervous being in Tehran on the date of the anniversary of the revolution, and watching them set up for the big demonstrations/rallies ... decided that day was a good one to get out of the city and go visit the assassin castle ruins!)
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