Hi all,

It's over 10 years since I last posted on here which is also about the last time we visited Morocco - so apologies, I am very much out of date with both.
In the 1990's and early 2000's we travelled down there most winters either by 4x4 or later by 1150 GS but as it was just me and the wife (and later our young daughter) I always took the cautious approach and travelled down via either the west coast or via Fes etc. before heading over the Atlas to Todra and the usual haunts further south.

There were lots of warnings back then (rightly or wrongly) about 'goings on' in the Rif with the result that we never really went east / n.east of Fes.
We have just started to plan a repeat visit this winter (if permitted).
Does anyone have more up to date information about the personal security situation in the N. East these days? We are well travelled and accept that there is never 100% safety as long as we are not entering pure bandit country.

We would be travelling by motorhome with a couple of trail bikes in the back for short (2-3 day) excursions using the MH as a 'base camp'. (Too old and creaky to ride down there anymore). We would probably be there for 3 months or thereabouts so we would like to explore in more detail than previous trips.

Thanks in advance.

Steve

We were along the med coast 12 months ago just before lockdown, and over the last few years I've travelled a bit through the Rif without any real issues except being chased for 20km by some hash dealers trying to make a sale.

Morocco's moved along a lot (and recently starting progress to legalising the cannabis trade) you should be fine but maybe not an idea to go poking around any farms

The roads were much worse--supposedly, government workers were reluctant to go into the Rif--but I found the main objective hazards were people on foot or in cars cutting in front of me, throwing stuff and yelling at me, trying anything they could think of to persuade me to stop (or crash--same thing from their perspective), in the hope I'd make some purchases.

I was warned to watch my possessions carefully, but didn't have any difficulties on that score.

Most of the the cannabis region is between Fes and Chefchaouen, East of Fes is more your normal agriculture.

The RN8 north out of Fes takes you through a hot spot of cultivation, and for the love of God (which ever type takes your fancy) avoid the RN419 along Barrage El Wahda, by far the worst road I've encountered out there, curiously every town or village had more mechanics than shops. Otherwise road consitions are pretty good now.

If you've been away since the 2000's the rate of progress and infrastructure development will shock you

top tip !
if you travel to ISSAGUEN be very carefull. its a place that even i wouldnt stop at !
but ........... the R509 towards Fezz is an amazing road full of cannabis sellers !

Thanks folks, much appreciated

We travelled through the Rif in 2018 and had booked a so called ‘gite’ somewhere in the middle, off the beaten track.
Well it all turned very dodgy and we left tout suite. It’s a long story but we rode very quickly down a mountain track and along partly paved roads, in the dark, reaching Chefchaouen around 1.30am.

Having said that, it really is beautiful and driving through it in daylight was lovely, I just wouldn’t drive through it at night or attempt to stay overnight - even if you’ve booked, what appears to be, an official gite over the Internet.

Some of the views in the rift area are spectacular
Most of the roads are in poor condition
A few years ago i rode through ketema( insugenne ) and a morocco just walked strait into me on my bike and fell on the road ......... well within a few secs there were 20-30 moroccians shouting at me .... the guy got up and held hand
out for money !! i shook it and went !!
You need to be very carefull here as most are high on drugs !!

Here are some photo impressions from East Rif (end of Nov. 2020).











I always try to follow small village-connecting roads. Didn't find really bad roads so far, only some challenging sections here and there as usual in such areas.
I always take my time here, travel slowly, explore sideways and naturally wild camp - without any problem. Really don't know where all this fear of Rif stems from. If you can cope with youngsters on meth and similar in the suburbs of most cities in EU, you can easily deal with a hash freak or two ...

Anyway, there's virtually none of this in the East Rif. The mountains East and inlands from El Jebha are particularly spectacular, can't wait to cross them again in few days on my way back!

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