Not everyone wants to ride off-tarmac all the time, so here's some road routes which I will add to over time. But I have included a couple of short very easy off-tarmac bits.

Posts 2-3: Chefchaouen to Fez — four different route options to choose from

Posts 4-5: Fez to Marrakech — a two day tour on largely back roads (optional off-road on day one)

Post to come: Marrakech - High Atlas - towards Merzouga

Post to come: Route options between Erg Chebbi and Marrakech

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__________________
"For sheer delight there is nothing like altitude; it gives one the thrill of adventure
and enlarges the world in which you live," Irving Mather (1892-1966)

Chefchaouen to Fez: Four route options to choose from

SUMMARY OF ROUTES, more information in next post
Google Maps image below, this is the link to the actual map. My timings are quite relaxed, so no need to race to beat the clock.

Route ONE (via Ouezzane): Main road route, 184km. Interesting scenery, initially hilly and then as you near Fez it becomes flatter with an undulating landscape. Take this route if you are in a hurry as it’s the fastest at about 4.5 hours plus refreshment stops

Route TWO (via Zoumi and Amergou Castle): Quieter side roads, 212km. Spectacular landscape in places with a fascinating castle to explore. Probably 6.5 hours plus refreshment and castle visit stops.

Route THREE (via Ketama): Mix of ‘N’ national and ‘R’ regional roads, 254km, probably a little over 6.5 hours plus refreshment stops. A traverse through the main cannabis growing area. Beautiful scenery with a ridge-top drive at one point.

Route FOUR (via Beni Ahmed and Tabouda): Mainly ‘R’ regional roads, 196km, probably 6 hours plus refreshment stops. Hilly rural communities and a drive along the El Wahda reservoir. One of my favourites.

continued on next post...

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
"For sheer delight there is nothing like altitude; it gives one the thrill of adventure
and enlarges the world in which you live," Irving Mather (1892-1966)

Chefchaouen to Fez: Four route options to choose from (continued)

DETAILED ROUTE DESCRIPTIONS
All routes start with a 15-minute 10-km descent from Chefchaouen (~650m altitude) to the transport hub of Derdara (~400m) at the intersection of the main RN2 and RN13 'route national' roads. Fuel up at the Afriquia at Derdara and set the trip meter of your vehicle, or take a note of the km reading on your vehicle’s odometer.

ROUTE ONE (via OUEZZANE)
Main road route, 184km, fastest at about 4.5 hours plus refreshment stops. Interesting scenery, initially hilly and then as you near Fez it becomes flatter with an undulating landscape. This is the obvious route to Fez as chosen by Mr Google, so from Derdara take the RN13 south to Ouezzane.

After 18km, you come interesting building at a point called Pont du Loukkos (Bridge over the Loukkos river). Between the 1910s and 1950s, the Loukkos marked much of the border between the Spanish Protectorate of Morocco to the north, and the French Protectorate to the south. This lovely art deco building was constructed in the 1950s when it was planned to build a bridge with customs post linking the two protectorates. As it happens the two protectorates were handed back to Morocco a little while after the project started and the bridge was eventually completed by the Moroccan authorities. This is a photo shortly before the hand back with a French armoured car in position

You reach Ouezzane at 60km, lots of cafes if you want a coffee pause. After Ouezzane you cross the Ouerrha river, and a bit further on, at 120km, you reach the Sebou river. 8km further on take the 'route regional' RR506 to Fez which is another 56km (measured to Fez railway station).

ROUTE TWO (via ZOUMI and AMERGOU CASTLE)
Quieter side roads, 212km, probably 6.5 hours plus refreshment and castle visit stops. Spectacular landscape in places with a fascinating castle to explore.

Start off taking the RN13 heading south to Ouezzane and follow Route One as far as Pont du Loukkos (18km from Derdara). Immediately after crossing the bridge take a left turn on the 'route provincial' RP4103. This is slow going on twisty ‘P’ provincial roads, so don’t take this route if time is of the essence. Coffee pause possibilities at Moqrisset (38km) and Zoumi (61km).

Leaving Zoumi, take the RP4104. At 78km you join the RR408 ‘R’ regional road heading east. At Moulay Boucht (130km) turn left to visit Amergou Castle. After the visit, take the RP5307, and after crossing the Sebou river (163km) take the RP5502 and RP5003 to Fez.

ROUTE THREE (via KETAMA)
Mix of ‘N’ national and ‘R’ regional roads, 254km, probably a little over 6.5 hours plus refreshment stops. A traverse through the main cannabis growing area. Beautiful scenery with a ridge-top drive at one point.

Take the RN2 route national road heading east from Derdara. As you come to the roundabout at Bab Taza (15km) you should see a couple of ancient British-manufactured road rollers that were used when these roads were originally constructed. Carry straight on the RN2. I still have the Michelin 169 map that I used when I drove this route in 1974 with “Wow!” circled on this road.

You then reach the province of Ketama and at 98km a chance of a coffee pause at the main town of Issaguen. You can read more about cannabis cultivation here. Leave Issaguen heading south on the RR509 regional road which joins the RN8 national road at 150km. Carry straight on for Fez.

ROUTE FOUR (via BENI AHMED and TABOUDA)
Mainly ‘R’ regional roads, 196km, probably 6 hours plus refreshment stops. Hilly rural communities and a drive along the El Wahda reservoir. One of my favourites.

As with Route Three, leave Derdara on the RN2 heading east, but at the ‘road roller’ roundabout at Bab Taza (15km), turn right heading south on the RR419, with many fields of cannabis normally visible. Chance of coffee pause at Bni Ahmed (60km) and Tabouda (75km). Stay on the RR419 and drive along the northern shore of the reservoir.

At Ourtzagh Bridge (122km), turn right onto the RR408, then a few km further on, carry straight on using the RP5309. Then just follow signs for Fez.

__________________
"For sheer delight there is nothing like altitude; it gives one the thrill of adventure
and enlarges the world in which you live," Irving Mather (1892-1966)

Fez to Marrakech: Two day route, mainly on back roads

The main national RN8 road is not a great solution for driving from Fez to Marrakech as it's a busy single lane route almost all the way and not at all conducive to a relaxing time. I always recommend getting off the RN (route national) roads and instead travel on RR (route regional) and RP (route provincial) roads instead where possible.

This is a two day route plan through the Middle Atlas that on the first day incorporates lakes, karst scenery, 'little Switzerland', volcanos, wild monkeys, cedar forest and a massive river formation, finishing at Khenifra. The altitude varies between the 400m of Fez reaching 1750m at Ifrane and ending at 1000m in Khenifra. Despite being a route through the mountains the Middle Atlas is very much a plateau highland with no steep ascents and few dropoffs.

DAY ONE:
Google Maps image for Day One below, this is the link to the actual map

Leave Fez on the RN4, there are some cave houses that you *could* visit in Bhalil but they are not easy to find as most have house-like outbuilds at the front. If you are interested, take a look at Itchy Boots' video of her visit (which I have 'hard linked' as it includes a start point partway into the video).

We have a cave house in the Altiplano de Granada in Spain and I can attest to the temperatures quoted—never below 14ºC in winter, even when it's -5ºC outside, and never above 22ºC in summer, when it can be 42ºC outside.

Sefrou is the cherry capital of Morocco and has a medina with crenulated walls, good place for your first coffee stop. As you climb slightly from Sefrou towards Annoceur you might spot huge kilns on the right of the road which is where the local limestone is 'cooked' with the local cedar wood to make quicklime that it used for building cement. Quicklime was at one time used for theatre stage lighting, hence 'in the limelight' expression.

Past Annoceur take a right onto the RP5106 through an area of orchards with nets against the frost. Take the right fork at the next two junctions heading for Dayet Aoua (dayat is a seasonal lake, which might be full or empty). Pass by the left side of the lake, then when you reach the main RN8 road turn left for Ifrane (pronounced ee'fran), crossing a bleak karst limestone plateau.

You pass the beautiful university of Al Akhawayn as you enter Ifrane, lessons here are given in English and there are many foreign students as well as the children of affluent Moroccans, see video clip below



Ifrane was built in the 1920s during the French protectorate very much in the model of the British hill stations of India, to give families somewhere to retreat to in the melting pot of summer. Ifrane can get heavy snow in the winter and the houses have steep roofs in the style of the French Vosges mountains which is why Ifrane gets (incorrectly) referred to as 'little Switzerland'. It's a good place to stop for coffee.

I've then shown a little detour to the right to Ain Vittel (ain is spring, Vittel is one of the mineral waters of Morocco). On this detour you descend through a water meadow which is a popular picnic spot for locals, then end up at a (normally) impressive little waterfall.

Regaining the road you will pass the lion of Ifrane on the right (carved from a limestone outcrop in the early 1930s), carry straight on with what is now the RR707, you might then get a glimpse the King's palaces through the trees to the left. Fork right at the next junction onto the RP7231, driving through the cedar trees. After about 5km take a small road to the left signposted Michlifen and you will start to descend into the caldera of an extinct volcano which is used as a ski resort in winter months. How cool is that? You ascend via a separate road passing the King's ski lodge on the way.

I was exploring another nearby extinct volcano caldera when I came across an army of oak processionary caterpillars per video clip below. The hair on these contains a substance that is a skin irritant to humans, so if you see, don't touch. You might notice the bubbles in the nearby rocks as these are actually volcanic ejecta.



As you approach the main RN13 you will probably make out other ski runs on the side of Jebel Hebri to your left, this is another volcano. Turn right (north) onto the main road and after about 4km you will reach a crossroads with souvenir huts where you are more or less guaranteed to see the macaca sylvanus monkeys (aka Barbary apes) who just love slices of melon as a change from peanuts!



Azrou is one of my four favourite spots in Morocco (along with Tafraoute, Essaouira and Sidi Ifni) and there's lots to see and do around Azrou

From the 'monkey crossroads' take the RP7217 opposite the sales huts, this is a lovely quiet and relaxing drive through the cedar forest. It's very much a volcanic zone and you will see many volcanic vents that have plugged and filled with water (aguelmam).

When you reach the junction with the RP7311 you could turn right/north for another coffee in Ain Leuh. Ain means spring, leuh is wood, and the 'spring of wood' name refers to the huge quantity of high quality cedar in the area. Otherwise turn left/south and after a while you will reach source of the Oum er Rbia (mother of springtime) river. Most of Morocco's rivers rise in the Middle Atlas which is known as the 'Tower of Water' and the Oum er Rbia is Morocco's longest river.

You need to park and walk gently uphill for about ten minutes until you see the river emerging, fully formed, from the rocks



There will undoubtely be a chance for more refreshments here, but probably steeper prices. Regaining the RP7311 route continue south with an optional detour to Aguelmame Azigza that in the summer months is a popular wild camping area for the locals and visitors alike. The video below starts at Azigza, then shows the drive to Oum er Rbia.



Continue south to the junction with the RP7306 where you turn right/west. You are still in the beautiful cedar forest but as you descend towards Khenifra the cedars give way to the evergreen holm oaks that are found at lower altitudes. I have waypointed the Atlas Zayane hotel which is an adequate but rather modern soul-less place, so if anyone finds somewhere nicer to stay I'd love to know.

Zayane is the name of one of the Amzigh tribes (the King's mother is Zayane). In 1914 the Zayane confederation won a large battle at Hebri, south of the town, against the French who lost 600 troops.

OPTIONAL OFF-TARMAC
As well as the many volcanoes in the Azrou area, you can visit a series of volcanic vents to the south west of Jebel Hebri per Itchy Boots' video.

If you are interested you could do a relatively short 18km off-tarmac liaison. Once you've visited the monkeys at the crossroads, retrace your route south past Jebel Hebri and take the track on the right at waypoint N33° 21.210' W5° 08.631' The track is on Google Maps shown as the RP7219. Keep your eye open for the vents either side of the track. After about 9km you then enter cedar trees, and 5km further on you come into the open again where you turn right (north west) and join the RP7217 on its way to Ain Leuh and yet more coffee.

continued on next post...

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
"For sheer delight there is nothing like altitude; it gives one the thrill of adventure
and enlarges the world in which you live," Irving Mather (1892-1966)

Fez to Marrakech: Two day route, mainly on back roads (continued)

DAY 2
Google Maps image for Day Two is below, this is the link to the actual map

The main stopping points on the second day are the very 'amazigh' town of Aghbala, the Bin el Ouidane reservoir, the cascades of Ouzoud and the natural bridge of Imi n'Ifri. There's also an optional exploratory walk to a hand-hewn geode mine. All of this area is still the Middle Atlas mountains.

Leave Khenifra on the RN8 heading south. You may notice a memorial on a hillock on the right about 6km further on to the battle of Hebri (which I think is at modern day Lehri). Another few km on take a left turn onto the RP7308, signposted El Kebab. Before you reach El Kebab fork right to join the RR503 then a bit further on turn right onto the RP3214 to Aghbala.

As an aside... Much of the unique culture of Morocco was maintained through the centuries due to the fact that successive invaders including Romans and Arabs only managed to subdue the coastal plains, an area known as the 'Bled el-Makhzen' or land of the treasury, which was under the control of the Sultan. The mountains and deserts were known as the 'Bled es-Siba' or land of anarchy and remained under the control of the tribes in those areas, in a peculiar situation where the tribes acknowledged the Sultan (a direct descendent of The Prophet) to be their spiritual leader, but not their ruler. You can read more on this subject in Gavin Maxwell's Lords of the Atlas book.

Under the terms of the 1912 protectorate, the French promised to bring the whole country under the command of the Sultan, but the Amazigh tribes were fierce fighters and the Ait Atta confederation wasn't finally subdued until 1935 which explains why there are still strong traditions held in rural areas. A few years back I met an elderly lady who had child memories of the battle times. As you travel around you will see the 'z' symbol of the tamazight script (tifinagh) which looks like this ⵣ painted on walls and doors. You tend not to see much of the amazigh writing, but Aghbala is a huge exception where the population seem determined to keep their 'free men' (meaning of amazigh) identity.

The Spanish were having their own problems subduing the Rif mountain tribes in their protectorate, resulting in 13,000 killed in the battle of Annual

Thinking some more on this subject, something like 80% of the population are ethnically Amazigh (the preferred word instead of Berber) and I could not understand why the 'city Berbers' would refer to the countryfolk as Berber as if they were a different ethnic group. I now think this has to do with the differentiation between makhzen and siba, and the fact the siba tribes were the fighting barbarians that the word Berber comes from.

Back to the route... Aghbala is also a good place for a coffee break. Carrying on south, at the next junction you need to turn right on what Google Maps thinks is the R317. Unfortunately this is one of many roads renumbered five years ago that Google hasn't got around to updating and it is now the RN12. You are not on this long before turning left onto the RR306.

Alternative route (1)... If you are pushed for time you could miss much of the above route by staying on the RN8 quite a bit further and passing the El Hansali reservoir, until you come to the R317 (really the RN12) junction where you turn left and come out to the junction with the RR306 as above.

Back to the main route... There's a fuel station in Ouaouizight (pronounced wah'we'zirt). Carry on past the beautiful Bin El Ouidane reservoir, the largest in Morocco. Towards the end perched right at the top of a high lookout there's the ruin of a French Foreign Legion fortress that you can ride up to with great views. You are not supposed to take photos in the area of the dam, but dashcams rather ruined that rule. On the other side of the dam you join the RN25 (Goggle thinks it's still the R304) to Azilal.

Alternative route (2)... If really pressed for time you could have stayed on the main RN8 all the way from Khenifra past Beni Mellal and then about 12km further on turned left on the RN25 (Google thinks R304) to Afourer and then onto the dam where you turn right for Azilal. The video below shows the approach from that direction.



Back to the combined route... Turn left about 12km past Azilal onto the RP3105 to Ouzoud and its cascade. A cascade is a waterfall that has several drops and the Cascades d'Ouzoud are normally spectacular. Zoom in on the Google Maps link I've provided and switch to satellite view. When you get to the circle by the parking area waypoint there are two ways to explore. The first is to take a footpath to the right and this will bring you out at the top of the falls per video below.



The top of the cascades is heavily calcified which creates a bit of a rim and I remember swimming right in the water flow in the 1980s—I must have been mad. Anyway, back to the parking circle, and this time take a path to the left down a long series of steps to get a view of the falls from the bottom.



And yet another view from the cliffs opposite.



There's lots of accommodation and eating options in the immediate vicinity and it's cool to stay overnight and explore whilst there's not all the day trippers around. The monkeys tend to be more active in the mornings and evenings as well.

Back to the route... Retrace your steps back to the RN25 and turn right, probably signposted Demnate (pronounced Dem'enet). A few km past Tanant turn left (south) for Demnate.

Carry on through Demnate on the RR307 to visit the natural bridge at Imi n'Ifri. This is at the junction of the RR302 which actually crosses the massive natural bridge. Imi is mouth, and Ifri is grotto, so this is the mouth of the grotto. Park up and walk down the wide steps at the northern end of the bridge. Note the size of the people in the background of my video clip below.



And a longer video better showing the walk down.



You should pass through the entire bridge but keep a lookout behind you as at one point the opening forms a highly accurate map of Africa! There's another set of steps up at the southern end. Allow 40 minutes for this.

Passing back to Demnate, exit on the RR210 to Marrakech. This is a straight road which can be driven at higher speed than in the mountains, the scenery is pretty initially then becomes boring as you near Marrakech.

If you have time you could do a diversion to a geode mine. When you see the geode sellers by the side of the road, ignore the sparkly ones with very bright colours, these are made in someone's kitchen. And many years ago I learned to beware of amythyst as when I washed my specimen the purple dye ran off revealing plain quartz. But the real geodes that you see are not just picked up off in the countryside, they run in seams that have to be mined. This is a route to a mine that I saw grow over the decades from a single simple pit to huge openings extended hundreds of metres, all dug by hand.

After passing Sidi Rahal, take a track to the left. Difficult to explain which track but it's the one that you can see a building at the end (waypoint N31° 38.754' W7° 29.213'). Turn left at the building then right and pass through the little village, you will then probably choose to park up where the track crosses a stream bed. Walk on another 500m and you will see a schoolhouse towards the right and climb up the rubble to the mine at N31° 37.920' W7° 29.520'. Rachid in the village you came through who will sell geode samples but there's plenty of low-grade stuff lying about as a souvenir.

And that's the end, back to the RR210 and into Marrakech.

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
"For sheer delight there is nothing like altitude; it gives one the thrill of adventure
and enlarges the world in which you live," Irving Mather (1892-1966)

Tim,
Many thanks for sharing this huge compendium of local knowledge which I am sure you will have had hours of 'fun' putting together.