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North Africa Topics specific to North Africa and the Sahara down to the 17th parallel (excludes Morocco)
Photo by Alessio Corradini, on the Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia, of two locals

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Alessio Corradini,
on the Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia,
of two locals



Trans Sahara Routes.

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  #1  
Old 20 Nov 2009
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Algeria'n doubts

I'v got today info from Tenezrouft about my schedule of visit in Algeria.
They told: south is safe, but in north is unsafe and we have to keep main roads and no wild camping.
However in algerian embassy told: you can drive without guide in north.
So what do you think about dangerous in Algeria. I was in many african and asian countries and I underestand what mean "dangerous", but I don't know what to think about this??
I really think that Marocco is more "unsafe" that Algeria.
First time in my life in Tunesia I have attempt of burglary in my car (only car lock damged). If this is usafe it is no problem.
Please help me friends.
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Old 20 Nov 2009
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... south is safe, but in north is unsafe and we have to keep main roads and no wild camping.

I would say take the advice of the agency - they live and work in the country not in an embassy in the posh quarter of some distant European capital.

However in algerian embassy told: you can drive without guide in north.

They are mistaken AFAIK. Try it - you won't get let out of Taleb Larbi or Algiers port. As a rule embassies are almost always out of touch with self drive travel practicalities in the countries they represent.

... I underestand what mean "dangerous", but I don't know what to think about this??

The problem is you have to transit the more active north before you get to the safer south. And there has been a lot of 'activity', especially in the northwest (G E Occidental) lately.

I know that Agence Tanezrouft have revised their map of map of safe and accessible piste areas.

I really think that Marocco is more "unsafe" that Algeria.

For ambush/attack/kidnapping I dont think so my friend, but no worse than say, parts of Pakistan and several other countries.

First time in my life in Tunesia I have attempt of burglary in my car (only car lock damged). If this is usafe it is no problem.

Make no mistake, foreigners are- and have been a GSPC/AQIM target in Alg (generally east of Algiers) but currently there is activity in the north Sahara (GEOcc). It could all be a flash in the pan or maybe it was always going on but not reported or off our radar.

I am flying into Tam in Jan and am not concerned. There will be other groups flying in and we will be gone before anyone notices to a place where cars can't reach. But I cancelled a 4x4 tour for Feb passing round the GE Occ'. IMO it is being spotted getting to the southern desert in a conspicuous European convoy that could be a risk, especially carrying the escort as a passenger (ie no Algerian vehicle present).

For the moment the agency advice seems good to me. Go fast to the south and then enjoy the fabulous Algerian Sahara.

Ch
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Old 20 Nov 2009
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Thank's Chris
Now I know more. I think the best will be fast get to the Tassili and Hogar region and after then try to see some places in north, but do it very quickly.
It is uncomfort for traveller to be in Algeria or other countries and don't see historical monuments and interest places.
This countries are not only desert. It is fantastic to be on Sahara but now I will be in to minds before choosing direction of my next year trip.
Once again thank's. I will wait for good info fro this region.
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Old 20 Nov 2009
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Hi Bartosz, if you mean the Roman historical monuments like Timgad Djemila, Tipaza and so on, they look very interesting but it has been risky to visit much of that area for many, many years.
To go there it would be much better to be in a discrete local car and driver. (I presume you are in your car?)

Ch
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Old 20 Nov 2009
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Things are becoming clear. Maybe first heading south and then go north, leave the car in safe place and as you write use a discrete local car and driver. Then back for my car and go straight to the border. Maybe it is good plan!?
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I wanted to go to Tipaza next trip, thinking that most of the trouble is east of Algiers.

Then to my surprise and chagrin there was a bombing on the highway near Tipaza this summer. Al Queda Group Claims Algerian Bombing
July 29th. 15 soldiers killed. So the bearded guys are all over the place.

Now I am thinking of seeing the north from a sailing ship! - we have one available in Portugal. That would be the safe way, no? - - - or maybe there are pirates too? Sigh.
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Went to Tipaza with a group of French and UK based scientists during a day off from a work trip to Algiers a few years ago. The locals at the side of the road stopped in their tracks and pointed at our cars with great surprise when we drove through the streets in the villages and suburbs west of Algiers. Nothing happened but one got the sense that its was pretty unusual for Euro tourists to pass through.
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Tipaza is only about 50 km east from Alger. It seems that in this region is not many euro tourists. I think about visit in this region in April so mayby things will change.
Thank you for replies.
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Old 24 Nov 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bartosz View Post
Tipaza is only about 50 km east from Alger. It seems that in this region is not many euro tourists. I think about visit in this region in April so mayby things will change.
Thank you for replies.
West, actually, but security-wise it may not matter much.
Djemila and Timgad are in more unstable areas.
It's been bad for twenty years so it may take a while to change.

If I were going alone I wouldn't worry much. Risk of being attacked or kidnapped is small, using common sense.

If I like Chris were organizing tours I would worry.

Btw thanks Chris for pointing me to sources for reading up on Algeria.
It is a fascinating country.
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Old 24 Nov 2009
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To the west actually. I went by public transit in Jan 09, and stayed in Cherchell (on the next bay to the west, with small but very well stocked Roman museum) for a couple of nights at the hostel.

Tipaza has an actual tourist area atmosphere, if not swarms of tourists. Lots of stands selling souvenirs, and the only tourist specific beggar in the entire North. It also sounds like the place all official visits take in, eg. Canadian Governor-General, Sarkozy, etc, according to the staff I was talking to there, as it is so close to Algiers.

The police checkpoints on that stretch of road were somewhat more fortified than in most other spots, but it certainly felt secure (given the state of the country).
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Old 30 Nov 2009
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Hi
Just back from Algeria, border crossed at Taleb larbi, if your guide is not there you are not allowed to cross, first step the doctor with thermic camera,if you get fever (more than 38°C) not allowed to cross. (H1N1)
Dozen of militaries check point, each time first question where is the guide.
He must sign huge commitment, he is responsable of you, every body fear the police.
From the border to Djanet we was not allowed to leave the paved road, If you arrive at 4 or 5 PM to a check point, they keep your passport until the morning, you must camp around.

On the track Djanet Tamanrasset ( south ) no control at all,
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Old 30 Nov 2009
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Thanks for the update Eric and congrats on not getting kidnapped.
Sounds pretty like the last time I went that way, except H1N1 is the new HIV at Taleb.

Ch
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Old 1 Dec 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric DN View Post
Hi
Just back from Algeria, border crossed at Taleb larbi, if your guide is not there you are not allowed to cross, first step the doctor with thermic camera,if you get fever (more than 38°C) not allowed to cross. (H1N1)
Dozen of militaries check point, each time first question where is the guide.
He must sign huge commitment, he is responsable of you, every body fear the police.
From the border to Djanet we was not allowed to leave the paved road, If you arrive at 4 or 5 PM to a check point, they keep your passport until the morning, you must camp around.

On the track Djanet Tamanrasset ( south ) no control at all,
Yes, you need to be filmed by the thermic camera (not me because I'm paraplegic, but my relatives, yes). If you are a little ill, the solution is to takes medics 1h. befor the border post...
About arrival late at checkpoints it depends: we get out Hassi Messaoud just after the sunset without any problem and went to a bivouac approximatively 40 km from there.
South Algeria is wonderful
RR.
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Old 1 Dec 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roro View Post
we get out Hassi Messaoud just after the sunset without any problem and went to a bivouac approximatively 40 km from there. RR.
Hi Roro,
did you guys end up overnight at the Taleb Larbi border or did you arrive early in the morning? Also, how long did you wait at the Algerian border and did you need to get permits in the next town? We also only made it out of Hassi M at sunset and we had slept at Taleb Larbi border the night before. But that was in a slow series LR.
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Old 1 Dec 2009
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Hi Richard,
We arrived at the Taleb Larbi's border post just before sunset, made some paperworks but waited for our guide to pass through: he arrived after our dinner (near the border post) and we had bivouac there.
On the next day we waited 2 hours: our guide (Tanezrouft) was at the "Gendarmerie" where there was little problem with the use of computer(the gendarme was not very efficient with it).
No problem with the others checkpoints until Hassi Messaoud.
Practical info: there is an auberge just after the border post with a big and clean parking lot and it's useful when you come back and arrive in taleb Larbi in the vening ; We used it when we came back from our tour.
RR.
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