Go Back   Horizons Unlimited - The HUBB > Regional Forums > North Africa
North Africa Topics specific to North Africa and the Sahara down to the 17th parallel (excludes Morocco)
Photo by Lois Pryce, schoolkids in Algeria

25 years of HU Events


Destination ANYWHERE...
Adventure EVERYWHERE!




Photo of Lois Pryce, UK
and schoolkids in Algeria



Trans Sahara Routes.

 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Prev Previous Post   Next Post Next
  #1  
Old 6 May 2009
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Sweden
Posts: 1,466
Driving without a guide from Tunisia jusqu'a Illizi

Like it says. After the Libyan incident http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...to-libya-42599
I swore not to let a guide destroy the remainder of the trip, or any part of it.

We had the visas to Algeria, easily obtained from the embassy in Stockholm. I had emailed several tour organizers, but there was only one that got back with me (essendilene) and none that seamed too eager to take care of us. It was the border to border package that all the organizers offer. The exception was Tanezrouft who actually called us and it was clear they would be our choice. But we would have to wait a number of days at the border for the guide to arrive.
So we decided to go on. We passed at Bou Chebka, lovely place and the best border crossing I have had in Africa. Took three hours and we bough the insurance and drove through lovely pine forests and wild flowers to Tebessa, a welcome contrast to the Tunisian desert.
Next day we drove to Ouargla. In Oueed the police got nervous and started following us around town, making the director at Banque de l'Algerie open the vault for us after hours so we could exchange some dollars. He praised our "courage" to drive around like we did. Courage?
The police then kindly suggested they escort us to the city limits and seemed relieved see us gone.
In Ouargla (perhaps the nicest desert town I have visited) we went to the Bureau de Securité des Etrangers and filled out the forms. They made calls down the route pour faciliter le passage.
At Hassi Belgebbour the guard wouldn't let us pass since it was after 6 p.m. The guard was delighted that we were driving without a guide. In broken English he said "give us a few more years and you can travel here as safely as anywhere in the world". We camped by the dunes and had the frite-omelette.
Next morning we went to Idriss Omar to take the short cut (???) to Illizi, but they wouldn't let us through and directed us to go over In Amenas. Fine by us.
So on day three in the aftrnoon we arrived in Illizi. Now the chief of police drove out to see us. He looked in our car. NO GUIDE?!?! I decribed our passage and asked if we could go on to Djanet. "Gentlemen", he said - "ici LE GRAND SUD!" You must have a guide.
So he found us a fine touareg guide - within ten minutes. Then he recommended the auberge as the hotel wasn't worth the money. Everything was looking good. Guide turned up at 8 the next morning. But by 9 he had disappeared??? Something was going on. The commissar from Algiers who stayed at room #5 at the auberge hinted there was a fuite (leak) - someone had notified the authorities that our guide didn't have his papers in good order. We waited for hours while the police said they would find us another guide. Appears a big arab fellow, saying he is the son of the owner of the only agence in town, offering his services. Which would, as expected, cost a princely sum and would be the whole package, not negotiable. Exacty what we was NOT looking for. "Will you go with us in the car?", I asked. "Walk with us on the plateau?". He turned around and walked away.
So we went to the cafe Aymen. Notre guide - il a disparu! I exclaimed. Soon enough a bunch of people were busy on the portables trying to find us a guide. Everybody seemed to know someone who knew a guide.
Same night we arrived at Djanet, where we hooked up with Sahara Tours and we're having a great time with the touaregs, talking long into the night about our HJ60 Landcruisers and other wonderful things.
Incidentally;
-the only thing the guide did was show us how to drive around Bordj al haouas to avoid the gendarmes.
-Anyone can drive the goudron all the way from Stockholm to Djanet in a decent 2wd!
-we haven't seen even ONE single tourist since leaving Tunisia! Not even in Djanet (save for a few Algerians from the north).
-Seems we are the first travellers etrangers to come down here without a guide since 2003? I can't believe it.
Now our guide showed up and we're going to the Tadrart. OUAHIIIA!

Draw your own conclusions.

Comments welcome.
Reply With Quote
 


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 Registered Users and/or Members and 1 guests)
 

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Tunisia/Algeria guide rules FromHere2Timbuktu North Africa 1 12 Sep 2008 16:55
Is HBG-Illizi practicable? Dr LC8 North Africa 11 21 Jan 2007 23:24
Protest against desert guide in south Tunisia sebm North Africa 0 17 Oct 2006 17:38
Tunisia , lookin' for a guide roro North Africa 4 30 Aug 2005 16:14
access to Illizi - BOD piste RichLees North Africa 0 15 Jan 2003 02:43

 
 

Announcements

Thinking about traveling? Not sure about the whole thing? Watch the HU Achievable Dream Video Trailers and then get ALL the information you need to get inspired and learn how to travel anywhere in the world!

Have YOU ever wondered who has ridden around the world? We did too - and now here's the list of Circumnavigators!
Check it out now
, and add your information if we didn't find you.

Next HU Eventscalendar

25 years of HU Events
Be sure to join us for this huge milestone!

ALL Dates subject to change.

2025 Confirmed Events:

Virginia: April 24-27
Queensland is back! May 2-5
Germany Summer: May 29-June 1
Ecuador June 13-15
Bulgaria Mini: June 27-29
CanWest: July 10-13
Switzerland: Aug 14-17
Romania: Aug 22-24
Austria: Sept. 11-14
California: September 18-21
France: September 19-21
Germany Autumn: Oct 30-Nov 2

Add yourself to the Updates List for each event!

Questions about an event? Ask here

See all event details

 
World's most listened to Adventure Motorbike Show!
Check the RAW segments; Grant, your HU host is on every month!
Episodes below to listen to while you, err, pretend to do something or other...

Adventurous Bikers – We've got all your Hygiene & Protection needs SORTED! Powdered Hair & Body Wash, Moisturising Cream Insect Repellent, and Moisturising Cream Sunscreen SPF50. ESSENTIAL | CONVENIENT | FUNCTIONAL.

2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.

2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.

"Ultimate global guide for red-blooded bikers planning overseas exploration. Covers choice & preparation of best bike, shipping overseas, baggage design, riding techniques, travel health, visas, documentation, safety and useful addresses." Recommended. (Grant)



Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance.

Led by special operations veterans, Stanford Medicine affiliated physicians, paramedics and other travel experts, Ripcord is perfect for adventure seekers, climbers, skiers, sports enthusiasts, hunters, international travelers, humanitarian efforts, expeditions and more.

Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ combines into a single integrated program the best evacuation and rescue with the premier travel insurance coverages designed for adventurers and travel is covered on motorcycles of all sizes.
(ONLY US RESIDENTS and currently has a limit of 60 days.)

Ripcord Evacuation Insurance is available for ALL nationalities.


 

What others say about HU...

"This site is the BIBLE for international bike travelers." Greg, Australia

"Thank you! The web site, The travels, The insight, The inspiration, Everything, just thanks." Colin, UK

"My friend and I are planning a trip from Singapore to England... We found (the HU) site invaluable as an aid to planning and have based a lot of our purchases (bikes, riding gear, etc.) on what we have learned from this site." Phil, Australia

"I for one always had an adventurous spirit, but you and Susan lit the fire for my trip and I'll be forever grateful for what you two do to inspire others to just do it." Brent, USA

"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the (video) series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring!" Jennifer, Canada

"Your worldwide organisation and events are the Go To places to for all serious touring and aspiring touring bikers." Trevor, South Africa

"This is the answer to all my questions." Haydn, Australia

"Keep going the excellent work you are doing for Horizons Unlimited - I love it!" Thomas, Germany

Lots more comments here!



Five books by Graham Field!

Every book a diary
Every chapter a day
Every day a journey
Refreshingly honest and compelling tales: the hights and lows of a life on the road. Solo, unsupported, budget journeys of discovery.
Authentic, engaging and evocative travel memoirs, overland, around the world and through life.
All 8 books available from the author or as eBooks and audio books



Back Road Map Books and Backroad GPS Maps for all of Canada - a must have!

New to Horizons Unlimited?

New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!

Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80G/S.

Susan and Grant Johnson Read more about Grant & Susan's story

Membership - help keep us going!

Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events all over the world with the help of volunteers; we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.

You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, or ask questions on the HUBB. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.




All times are GMT +1. The time now is 11:54.