Hello friends,
This is my first post, I hope I am posting in the right section, and also hope that it isn't a repeated post. I searched the forums and founds nothing, so here it goes.

From August to December, I will cycle tour from Lisbon, to Mauritania and back.

The long trip to Nouadihbou, I will cycle all the way, passing through various regions of Morocco, and also all the way down Western Sahara, no hitchhiking at all. In Nouadihbou I plan to take the Iron Train to Choum or Fderik and then cycle to Terjit, Chinguetti and Ouadane (Richat Structure). I will then take the Train back to Nouadihbou and start my return trip to Lisbon.

Since Western Sahara is long and monotonous, I don't wish to cycle it again, that would be boringly-suicidal*, I hate repeated roads. My plan is to hitchhike on a truck/pickup than can carry my bike and the panniers to Guelmin/Tiznit.

As I've never been there, Do you guys think that it's easy to take this lift from Nouadihbou, given that I go north out of the city and wait for a truck. And even if it's easy to take a lift, is it common to have trucks run all the coast up to the "border" with Morocco?

Bonus questions: (I have limited time, so can only visit one).
What do you think is worth more? to explore the iron mines in Fderik/Zouérat or to visit the Richat Structure? I love industrial work and machinery, but the idea of visiting the Eye of the Sahara is exciting. But I see two problems:
-Is it even possible to visit the mines and the working trucks or is it closed and strictly to personel?
-As exciting Richat Structure seems from the air, I have a feeling that from the ground the geological formation will be super similar to most southern morocco landscape, and it won't be that interesting. Tell me if you think otherwise. Or if you know of any hot-air balloon tours over it.

Thank you very much! I've been reading this forums for some months now, so I'm happy to join, and hope that after my trip I can share my experiences and help future travellers!

you can follow the trip later on instagram @loistouring http://www.instagram.com/loistouring

*I know I'm going to love riding WS, and I'm aware that it will be a challenging 8 day stretch fighting sand, wind and nothingness, and the reward will be priceless. However, repeating it in such a short time, is unthinkable, and I'd rather use my time for new challenges

Hi Louis - good first post. The right questions and to the point.

If I were hitching back with a bike I would sooner try it from Dakhla because there will be more traffic, the request will be less unusual, there will be buses (and even planes) so it will be all round less expensive and less complicated.
Or try just inside the Moroccan border - plenty of stopped vehicles.
Also, I'm sure you know you don't need a truck; a bike can be chucked on the roof of any car, pickup etc. Even a tourist motorhomer might help.

I have never been to Zouerat but I am pretty sure the mine/s are not open to tourists (like they are in Western Australia, for example) unless you meet the right person. But I still think the towns could be an interesting 'wild west' outpost to visit, not just the mines.

You are right about the 'Eye of the Sahara' from ground level. We were there in the late 90s before that description had been invented and from the central point all you can see is low hills all around. Nothing special at all, plus I'm not sure you'll be able to cycle the sands to get there from Ouadane before running out of water. Even in November Mauritania can be hot.

Consider: Choum, cycle down to Atar, head on to Terjit.
Back to Atar then out to Chinguetti and, if you can handle the track, on to Ouadane.
Both are interesting old Saharan towns.
You could probably get a lift back to Atar on a carrot pickup, but expect to pay. Hitching with locals is not usually free in the Sahara.

Or, if you have an MTB try a loop: Atar, Terjit, junction off new Tidjika road for Mhaireth (piste, 15km from jct). Then if you feel confident, carry on out of the canyon and NNE to the Atar-Chinguetti track just above the Ebnou pass (about 40km) where the tarmac soon starts, and freewheel back down to Atar (25km). On the way you will pass stromatolite fossils by the road, the original life form that oxygenated Earth x billion years ago. (Unfortunately, that makes them sound more interesting than they look).

Will be a good mini adventure but just remember, what sounds easy and exciting at this stage has a habit of becoming much harder once you're actually out there, especially after 8 days of Atlantic headwinds.

Use Atar as a base and explore the surroundings, enough to see to keep you busy for months if you have the time. Look for gueltas and waterfalls, wildlife and interesting rocks. Fderik could be the less interesting direction. Oujeft would be better.

Thank you Chris! Your reply was very informative. I recognise your name from the Morocco Overland Guide, I considered buying it and even might do it soon. I've got the Reise-know-how atm.

I guess the wisest is just start pedalling north towards Dakhla and hope some one stops. It takes about 4-5 days pedalling so maybe theres a chance of getting a ride to Dakhla at least, and from there, like you said, it should be easier. I've hitched 7 seat car with my loaded bike, but pickups are just hassle-free. Hop on and go.

I don't mind paying for the lift, I think it's fair. What prices should be acceptable for a long lift?

This is my plano for Morocco/Mauritania (I hope it does not get off-topic, maybe I will create another thread for this in Morocco section). It's divided into phases. Basically all the way down to Nouadihbou I cycle, then back north I only intend cycling in the Anti-Atlas, The Dades Gorge and to the other side of the High Atlas until Beni Mellal where I'll takes buses to return to Tanger in order to keep up back to Lisbon.

Here is the map of my plan. It is estimated to be 5700km pedalling.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1FT...go&usp=sharing

I am open to suggestions, maybe I missed something. Or should avoid some areas. To the record, I love desolate arid regions, and this is supposed to be challenging but beautiful too with landscape, landmarks, architecture, nature, history, and remoteness.

I am using a Touring Bike, with 28" Schwalbe Marathon Tires, with 1.75 width (47-622).
The picture is of course unloaded, but it will have the classic 4 panniers and handlebar bag (ortlieb).


Since Richat Structure looks not so special from ground, is it really worth visiting Ouadane? or should I focus my time on Atar, Terjit and Chinguetti? I actually had that "loop" you mentioned planned.

I am totally aware that planning at home is easy, but once you go on the road things are not as easy. I experienced that when crossing Spain


Thank you priffe, I will keep that in mind. Maybe by your suggestion, avoiding Ouadane and focusing on the Atar surroundings would be the wisest ideia.

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One thing I see on your Morocco blue route is Foum Zguid towards Tagounite: a piste from hell once you are off the over-rated Iriki section. Just over the jebel to the north is a road to Zagora. Or a very nice ride north from Foum: turn off for MS13, a nice quiet ride to Agdz with an easy piste stage. And from there a short ride to the next bit.

Much more fun/relaxing to keep off main N roads wherever possible. Down south you won't have a choice.

Then your blue continuation north off the R108 over Jebel Sarhro West (MH15 in my book) will give your spokes something to think about and is actually better southbound (gradual up; steep down). Will take a couple of days and a lot of pushing. Very nice piste, but the more-used MH4 out of Nekob could be easier as it’s getting sealed but is also spectacular.
The stage from Imilchil to Ahansal and beyond will be tough but enjoyable. And from Beni Mellal, scenically the fun bit is over as you probably guessed.

A nice southern detour off your red route is from Tinerhir up to Iknioun and then back down to Dades. All sealed and will avoid the fast traffic on the busy N10 if you are not in a hurry. N10 Dades to Ozt will be a slog.
The road west from Agouim N9 is all sealed until the turn off to the lake.
Don’t know the approach around Toubkal beyond the lake, but I suspect a lot of pushing or even carrying.

If you do half of what you have planned in Morocco I will be exceedingly surprised ;-) but a plan has to start somewhere. What you have here is a whole separate adventure – doing Mauritania is another. Maybe leave the hardcore exploring of Mk for the way back if you have any energy/health left and when it's cooler.
Be warned the northern section towards Fez is very hilly. I would even consider getting a train Tangier to Marrakech to get straight to the action - or vice versa to cut out the relatively boring north.

The inland bit from Afkhenir, I think is mostly desolate piste; i would not risk it alone (a road goes towards the R101 Abteh I believe, but I did not see it last year).
Nice backroute from Tarfaya along the coast to Foum el Oued west of Layounne.

Price of private lifts: don't know but whatever they can get away with deepening how desperate you look. Might even be nothing. Agree before getting in.

RIM
The southern route you show from Ching to Ouadane - no chance on a bicycle. It is the northern rubble track or nothing. Personally I think Ouadane is fascinating to look at but not been there for 20 years. It might eat 3-4 days out of your time.
Not done it, but the Mhaireth loop should be fun without being way out there.

Bike looks good, nice copper accents. A mate just did NZ end-to-end on something similar except it is probably 20-30 years newer and 10 x the value ;-) Like him, I would spec a fork for hydraulic disc brakes so you can have much stronger rims which won't get ground away by the brakes. And then the next size tyre up for a bit of suspension on the pistes. For WS road, pump up to 3-4 bar in a garage and hope for a backwind.
Centralise the weight by filling that triangle with weight, bikepacking-style not classic 4-pan style. Will handle much better on the pistes. Get weight off the back rack which often give problems (actually I see it is axle mounted - better).
I think that lower bottle cage will bend open if used on the piste without a strap.
Better still to get the big cages to take your typical 1.5L plastic mineral water bottles sold locally.
I would consider changing your valves for Schrader so you can top up anywhere/off a lorry with a hose when you lose your pump or it fills with sand (better to keep it inside a bag in the desert). Good thing with Schwalbe is that punctures are exceedingly rare.

This book might be interesting and appears to be all online or used and cheap on amazon. I seem to recall he went a little bit crazy in the desert but in '88 it was a tough old ride.

Wow, fascinating answer. You know Morocco like the palm of your hand.

Just to be clear, this is the a sketch of the route, some roads I traced personally, others, it was automatic from Strava.
The plan is:

RED LINE: Start trip in Tanger, cycle down through Talassemtane Parc to Chefchaouen, then continue down to Volubilis, Meknes and Fés. From here continue down crossing Ifrane Parc, and crossing the Middle Atlas in direction of Errachidia/Arfoud/Merzouga. Then go west towards Ourzazate/Ait Ben-haddou. After this, I really want to tackle the High Atlas over to Marrakech. From Marrakech, cycle to Agadir, then continue cycle all the way down until Nouadihbou.

BLACK/BLUE LINE: In Nouadihbou take the Iron Train to Choum or Zouerát. Explore Atar, Terjit, Chinguetti, possibly Ouadane. Once Adrar region is explored, take the train back to Nouadihbou

LIGHT PURPLE LINE: In Nouadibou, ask for a lift to Dakhla. From Dakhla, take bus or lift to Guelmin.

BLUE LINE: Cycle to Tafraoute, and then cycle the arid desert to Zagora. Basically following this route from ROUTE OF CARAVANS: MOROCCO TRAVERSE (SOUTH). This route ends near Beni Mellal.

LIGHT PURPLE LINE: From Beni Mellal, take a bus back to Tanger (connection in Casablanca).


It's easier if I answer your points (paragraphs) by order.

1. In what way is Iriki over-rated? I crave for desolate arid region, with high temperatures, and looking like Mars. I've cycled 46º in Andalusia, through sand and piste in 2016, and I can handle the heat. These are my favourite parts of cycling. Or is this something else?

2. "Then your blue continuation north off the R108 over Jebel Sarhro West (MH15 in my book) will give your spokes something to think about" - I didn't get this part, do you mean to avoid this road? Like, bad for the spokes? I wanted to do it southbound, but given other factors, it will have to be done northbound. You suggest MH4, I will take that into account, since on the Red Line I already pass Boumalne Dadès, I can take a detour now and skip it. ;-)

3. Yes, my plan was to finish in Beni Mellal, theres bus connection to Tanger (2 buses).

4. I will take this Iknioun detour into account! Is it for scenic route or the village itself?

5. Toubkal route, This was automatic Strava routing. But thanks for pointing it out, I'll take it into consideration. I also intend on asking locals for the ways, so I think I'll be fine.

6. Yes, it's a great adventure! I already scaled it down from previous plans. I learned a lot touring in Spain, and now I'm considering all the factors, and being realistic about what I can do. I will take a shortcut or a bus/lift if I must to complete this plan. Preferably to avoid high traffic un-scenic roads.

7. Explore Mk? You mean Marrakech? I'm visiting Marrakech before Mauritania given its geo-location. I want to cross High Atlas and Marrakech is right on the other side... I'd have to rethink a big part of the plan. But I'm always open for change.

8. Good suggestion. I might change the route to end in Marrakech and then take a bus back to Tanger.

9. Desolate piste? That sounds interesting at least. Or is there a good reason I should go through Abteh?

10. Backroute from Tarfaya along the coast to Foum. Check!

11. You're right, the south piste to Ouadane is all sand, thanks. But I'll see my time when I'm there. I've sent an elaborate email to SNIM (Iron Train company) to check if it's possible to visit the mines. Waiting for their reply. If I have the chance of visiting the mines, I'll probably skip Ouadane. If impossible to go to the mines, I go to Ouadane.

12. About my bike:
It's steel frame 2008 Ridgeback World Panorama, specifically for touring. It's actually quite good, and I modified some specs. I will use these 36 spoke rims and forks, no budget for upgrades. But will most likely swap rims after completing this tour, I think they will come to their limit at the end. Good time to buy some hand-made rims with hub dynamo. These are the biggest tires I can fit, there no clearance for wider :-(. The bikepacking style would be great, but I've got everything ready with 4 pannier style. I bring a lot of gear that allows me to be independent and self-suficient for some days. And it's cheaper. Many cyclists have done worser roads in similar bikes so I think I'm good with this.

13. I'm having 3 copper bottles on the triangle. Copper bottles sterilises water and bacteria/virus, beside looking cool, it's really a matter of hygiene. And tastes a lot better. Will remove the copper bell to receive less attention. The lower bottle cage will hold a small tool box with a strap, thanks for the advice. All copper bottles have a strap of their own (pictured). These Schwalbe tires are said to last 25000km without punctures, I've had at least 3-4 in 500-600km, but they were either snakebites or ripped tube around valve, frustrating..

14. I thought about that so I bought a good Presta to Schrader valve and it works well! I had to remove the frame pump because of added kickstand. So now I swapped it for a smaller one that will travel inside the panniers. Didn't know about that sand problem, thanks for the advice.


Chris, thanks for all the help! After these suggestions, I will redraw the plan from scratch. It' important to have a well established plan, but be flexible on the road, and go for plan B or C if necessary. Nothing like listening to an expert. Once I have the time I will trace every road with precision.

Thank you once again

PS:I'll definitely read that book when I have the time ;- )

1. I see so many people get excited about this route which is rough or needs longer diversions and not very interesting anyway, with cafe shacks dotted across the track-scared lake bed. And I think to myself, there are so many better places in Morocco to find what you and they seek. MA9 is nice, but even then I think Morocco's major scenic appeal is dramatic mountains and canyons not true desert desolation. For that you need to go further south.

2. Don't avoid just expect a tough but spectacular haul. MH4 will be easier but busier. It is a popular route.

3. OK

4. Well more to get off the N10. But you will take one of these backroads from or near Iknioun if you come up and over MH4.

5. I'm sure it gets hiked; not so sure about a 4-pan bike. Thorn Tree Morocco has some trekking experts.

7. Explore Morocco I meant.

9. Well a bit risky IMO for not much scenic interest (as is the case with much of WS). Not been there yet but Afkhenir lagoon nearby sounds like it's worth a visit.

11. Perhaps you can visit the mines according to this post, but it is kind of informal.

12. I suppose all you have to do is keep pedalling. And it's a bike you know ;-)

13. Didn't know that about copper - maybe that's why it is in house plumbing.
A lot of punctures, something is wrong. Pressures too low?
I did Karakoram on City Jets then Himalaya on Marathon Supremes (mate with Marathon XR). Pakistan slowly destroyed the bike but no punctures.
My NZ mate used tubeless - no punctures in 3000 miles. Amazing. He also used those low-prolfie elbow rests - might be good for WS headwinds.

14. I forgot about the Presta adaptors. I would bring a spare pump – you can't afford to lose it.

Good Luck.

I have had 3 of those metal bottle cages break on OZie corrugations. Use plastic nylon ones - they don't break, they will flex and wear but not break.

Small pumps tend to be a lot of work .. better with longer ones. I have 2 Topeak morph pumps - they are good, the smallest I'd take touring. The presta valves are a lot less work pumping up.

If you need more bottles .. I have put 2 either side of the standard down tube one (not the seat post one - the one in front) - my feet clear them and they are lower than the one you have on the top tube. Later if you go for a main frame bag then these two bottle mounting points may come in handy for water.

Sand will ware away at your rims - it gets onto the brake pads and makes a sand paper .. take some spare brake pads and swap them over from time to time. When the old pads come off you can spend some time picking the sand out of them. Disk brakes are much better, as Chris pointed out, you don't ware out rims, disks and pads are much cheaper and easier to replace.

Flats - snakebites means too low a pressure. Tube ripping around the valve = tyre moving on rim = too low a pressure. You need more tyre pressure! There should be a minimum tyre pressure on the tyre side wall .. With luggage on you'd want more than the tyres rated minimum pressure. The Topeak morph pumps have a rough pressure gauge that can help with the pressure management.