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30 Sep 2003
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Is the Hoggar route too dangerous right now?
I want to cross the Sahara this winter, but not via the beach route...so is the Hoggar off limits because of the kidnap risk?
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30 Sep 2003
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Good question! No one really knows the answer yet of course but we're about to find out. The guys are still at large as we know, but I hear there are many more checkpoints in Alg, and not just on the roads.
One of the hostages warned me strongly that they've made good 'outlaw' connections while out there and are in the central Sahara to stay, but down to Tam by road and then with a convoy to Arlit would be as safe as it gets. And Agadez is no safer than it has been but it doesnt stop people going there and doing Tenere tours.
And Hoggar will be a whole lot more interesting than the Atlantic Route. Just be aware of the consequences of a meltdown scenariio (as most travellers are, whatever they do in the deep Sahara)
Ch
PS. a green BMW 2002 wreck 150km south of Tam wants locating for posterity - see 'Mis ing Pix' on my websites
------------------
Author of Sahara Overland and the Adventure Motorcycling Handbook, among other things
http://www.sahara-overland.com and http://www.adventure-motorcycling.com
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7 Oct 2003
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Thanks Chris. I'm inclined to give it a go, but stupidly I've only just read the bit on your site about having to pay for a guide if you want a tourist visa in Algeria. I'll be on a bike and I don't want the expense or the company of a guide in a 4x4 - for me the whole point of crossing the Sahara is to enjoy the scenery and the emptiness in solitude. If I have to pay for a guide in Algeria (as well as Libya) it seems that doing the Hoggar route this year will be ruinously expensive and no fun. So I'm now very depressed and thinking I'll have to give the Sahara a miss. Is this a sensible conclusion? I haven't done this before so please don't shrink from stating the obvious. Have I missed some other possibility? For example, let's say I entered Algeria from Ghat with a transit visa giving me, say, three days to make my transit....and then spent a week or two exploring pistes at my leisure, and upon exiting the country, blamed my overstay on mechanical trouble or illness. What sort of trouble might result?
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7 Oct 2003
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"for me the whole point of crossing the Sahara is to enjoy the scenery and the emptiness in solitude."
Tell me about it!
I think in Africa there is often a large empty space between what is said and what actually happens once you're there. I believe someone (Roro?) already mentioned no guide needed:
http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/ubb...ML/001233.html
So there's nothing stopping you. Overstaying a visa is bad form and could make hassle for the border guys - try at least to get it extended at a police station - and then take your chances on overstaying - but I reckon tourist visas of 4 weeks may be still being issued.
Give Agence Zeriba a try on my .../algeria.htm page a try for invites. Would be interesting to see how efficient he is. Persevere with the fax or text his thuraya to turn it on.
Algeria is indubitably the dog's. I envy you.
Ch
PS. If you could collect my Hawker battery from Tam that would be handy (all that's left of my XRL). I could do you a can of fuel in the Amguid area, foc, if you want.
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7 Oct 2003
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Brilliant, thanks!
I won't be in any sort of hurry, so I can undertake any number of errands - fetching batteries, photographing green BMWs, whatever. But I'm not planning to come back anytime soon - your battery might have two or three years of global circumnavigation to look forward to if it gets into my panniers. Perhaps I could post it?
Free fuel sounds good - I haven't watched your DVD yet, but having visited Overland Ernie today I'm guessing that a few broken ribs prevented you from getting to your fuel dump or the crater? I'll be on an 1150 GS with a 41 litre tank - I haven't done any detailed planning but I imagine a fuel dump in the middle of nowhere could extend my horizons quite a bit. (If I make it that far...being new to this I'm bound to have all sorts of mishaps long before I get to all these wonderfully exotic-sounding spots.)
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7 Oct 2003
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OK, forget the battery idea, maybe someone else can collect it. No rush. Fuel was not really meant to be free as it's too useful there - more an incentive for battery collection. That area would be a bit daunting solo on a big BM, compared to the alt routes which are more scenic and easier.
Ch
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7 Oct 2003
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What is your date of departure ?
Let us know your route : via Ghat or via El-Oued ?
I'm very interresting by your choice : I have the same to do for my next trip to Sahara .
Nice trip !
RORO .
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