Here's an update on travelling through Mauritania which answers a lot of questions we were searching answers for before we started our trip. We're riding motorcycles and are currently in Mali.

1. The route we followed though the country, giving our overnight stops were Nouakchott, Aleg, Kiffa and Ayon El Atrous. Apart from the regular military check points and requests for fiches (take about 50), there was no trouble. We heard about other travellers being warned about not straying too far off the main road, however we weren't offer this advice and came accross no hostilities other than kids and the odd adult screaming for a cadeau.

2. Petrol, or "Essance" was available in all the towns listed in at least one filling station in each town. There may have been petrol available in other towns, but we never looked as we didn't need to.

3. All the roads were good EXCEPT between Kiffa and Alyon. It started out excellent for a few kilometres then we were diverted to a gravel road since they are still completing the resurfacing. This was for about 20km. When we were back on the "old" road, this was a pot-holed mess all the way to Alyon. It was slow going and the entire distance of just over 200km between Kiffa and Alyon took us over 5 hours, with a few breaks thrown in.

4. The border crossing on the road from Alyon to Nioro in Mali took under 2 hours and was empty. The Mauritanian border guard that stamped us out requested a 10 Euro tax but he didn't persist when we asked for a receipt. No money changed hands on both the Mauritanian side or Malian side. There is a tiny booth on the Malian side where you can buy your 3rd party Carte Brune insurance. He appears to be open to negotiation and got a better deal than was listed on his tarrif sheet. Respect the (non existent) stop sign when you leave the border post. We got a bollocking and managed to escape a fine. The stop sign is safely stored in the guards little rest area, by the way.

4. Money can be changed in all of the towns we visited, however it is best to change all your money in Nouakchott, where you will get the best rate. Outside of Nouakachott, petrol stations are the best places to try.

Hope this helps any future travellers.

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London to Cape Town
http://pikipikisafari.net