Here's an update on travelling through Mauritania which answers a lot of questions we were searching answers for before we started our trip. We're riding motorcycles and are currently in Mali.

1. The route we followed though the country, giving our overnight stops were Nouakchott, Aleg, Kiffa and Ayon El Atrous. Apart from the regular military check points and requests for fiches (take about 50), there was no trouble. We heard about other travellers being warned about not straying too far off the main road, however we weren't offer this advice and came accross no hostilities other than kids and the odd adult screaming for a cadeau.

2. Petrol, or "Essance" was available in all the towns listed in at least one filling station in each town. There may have been petrol available in other towns, but we never looked as we didn't need to.

3. All the roads were good EXCEPT between Kiffa and Alyon. It started out excellent for a few kilometres then we were diverted to a gravel road since they are still completing the resurfacing. This was for about 20km. When we were back on the "old" road, this was a pot-holed mess all the way to Alyon. It was slow going and the entire distance of just over 200km between Kiffa and Alyon took us over 5 hours, with a few breaks thrown in.

4. The border crossing on the road from Alyon to Nioro in Mali took under 2 hours and was empty. The Mauritanian border guard that stamped us out requested a 10 Euro tax but he didn't persist when we asked for a receipt. No money changed hands on both the Mauritanian side or Malian side. There is a tiny booth on the Malian side where you can buy your 3rd party Carte Brune insurance. He appears to be open to negotiation and got a better deal than was listed on his tarrif sheet. Respect the (non existent) stop sign when you leave the border post. We got a bollocking and managed to escape a fine. The stop sign is safely stored in the guards little rest area, by the way.

4. Money can be changed in all of the towns we visited, however it is best to change all your money in Nouakchott, where you will get the best rate. Outside of Nouakachott, petrol stations are the best places to try.

Hope this helps any future travellers.

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Thanks Adrian. Updates like this always welcome here.
What was the fuel price, btw?

Ch

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Morocco Overland 4 (2025) • Trans Morocco Trail

320 to 328 OUM per litre of diesel in Nouakchott, slowly rising the further you go from the capital

We're also just back from Mauri.

No problems, very friendly.

Lots of Fiches, we used 32 between Tan Tan and St.Louis...

Travel safe, Sam.

In case anyone's wondering, you can download a fiche template here.

Ch

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Morocco Overland 4 (2025) • Trans Morocco Trail

Sam, what kind of paperwork did you have to sort out on Mauri-Senegal border? I'm trying to get some info on wheter I need a 150EUR carnet (CDP) for Senegal or not (for motorcycle)...I've heard of some other some other senegalese version of CDP, costing less
Anyone any ideas on that?

cheers!

It's a very African solution. If you don't have a carnet then you're 'stuffed'.

But if you do have a carnet, then they don't use it, but issue you a Senegalese document in it's place.

So, your carnet never gets stamped, but you do need it...

Travel safe, Sam.

1. Price of diesel 375 ougia - pretty much the same everywhere. "Bandit diesel" from a canister is about 350 ougia - in Oadane for example.
2.Senegal border - best to go to Rosso -Diama is more complicated. At Rosso either chance the chaos or ask for assistance from Alpha, very helpfull and sensible. On the Senegal side you will need to ask for a Pass avant - which cost 2500cfa for 24 hours - it needs to be extended in Dakar at the port - a real hassle - we are just transiting so no need. Will do the crossing on Thursday with a 4x4 so will confirm newest info.
3. Everywhere in Mauritania we kept hearing the mantra - "pour votre securitee". Police and Gendarmerie are courteous and take great care to know your whereabouts. We travelled to to Adrar and from there to the Tagan region and everywhere they took our details and wanted us to register at every check point.
4. Have your "fiche" , the gendarmerie want it - also include your visa number and the date of entry.
5. Definetely no VISA or chance of getting a VISA at the Mauritanian border. Get it in Rabat....

From memory, the petrol started out at around 380 a litre in Nouakchott, rising to 395 in Alyoun.

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good news. thanks for the update.
looking to go down the same route myself.

Hi,

Thanks for all the info. We are going down the same route in a few weeks and were wondering about a few things:

- Is there any unleaded benzin to find in Mauritania and Mali or we are better off taking out the catalytic converter from the bike?

- Could we get easily the visa for Mali at the Mauri border? Which border would that be? I´ve read the one in Noiro only.

-Any chance to get the Mauri visa at the border with Morocco? I´ve been told it´s not possible any longer.

Thanks a lot and have a great trip

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According to these 2011 UN maps of fuel in Africa:
North Africa
sub-Saharan
all of Africa except [south] Algeria has been unleaded for many years. I was surprised to hear this, but the whole cat removal thing (as suggested in AMH) could be unnecessary. More common might be low octane fuel - normale - in remote places but which some efi bikes can handle better than old ones.

For Mali, see sub-Saharan forum.

No Mori visas at the WS/Mori border. Get it in Rabat.

Ch

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Morocco Overland 4 (2025) • Trans Morocco Trail

mahsita,

There is NO unleaded fuel in Mauritania, so if your vehicle requires unleaded to run properly, I would suggest making the necessary changes before you leave.

You need to get all your visas in advance, no visas are issued at the borders. Don't risk it, its a long way back!
You can get both the Mauri and Mali visas in Rabat. Mauri takes 2 days so apply on either a Mon, Tues or Wed to avoid added delay of staying over a weekend.
I heard the Mali visa can be got in Rabat in 1 day, however we got ours in Nouakchott in 1 day.

Hope that helps.

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