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North Africa Topics specific to North Africa and the Sahara down to the 17th parallel (excludes Morocco)
Photo by Andy Miller, UK, Taking a rest, Jokulsarlon, Iceland

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Andy Miller, UK,
Taking a rest,
Jokulsarlon, Iceland



Trans Sahara Routes.

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  • 2 Post By borneoman

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  #1  
Old 30 Oct 2014
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Mauritania - Mali Border Incidence

My wife and I took Nouakchott - Kiffa - Aioun El Astrous road and entered Mali through Gogui. The road throughout was good except for a few km untarmac after Kiffa. The station at Aioun El Atsrous did not have any petrol, so we bought about 10 liters at double the normal price from the same guy who mend the station.

Early Saturday morning we reached the border, all easy leaving Mauritania and the custom officer shamelessly asking for 5,000 Ougiya to stamp out. Reluctantly gave him half the amount since he was very adamant to get the money from me.

Went to the Mali side and after filling out the forms, the police said the border has been closed for entry and no one is allowed to enter Mali through Gogui. No point to return to the Mauritanian side as they also do the same. By end of the day there was a long line of trucks waiting to enter Mali and a few hundreds people waiting to enter Mali..

No change of situation on the 2nd day but at around 9 pm the police had allowed non Mauritanian lorries to enter Mali. Malian are also allowed to enter Mali.

The morning of the 3rd day situation started to get ugly when people got to know that some non Malian were allowed entry after they have made special payment to the police. The police also kept most of the people passport and ID and charge them 5000 to 10000 CFA if they want their passport back. One man was 'detained' in the police room for being too 'outspoken' about the payment. Many of the people have not eaten for days as they did not expect to be stucked at the border. They asked the police chief for help but he just laugh and told them to find their own food.

On the 4th day morning, people started to block vehicles from leaving or entering Mali and situation became more tense. Police started to move around with weapons in hands. At around 12.30 pm, the police announced that everyone with valid visa can enter Mali, hereby ending the fiasco.

We were there to witness the whole thing from day 1 to the end. Our conclusion, the police/custom on both sides were arrogant, corrupt and would not give a damm about other people hardship. They will squeeze every penny from anyone who passes the border. We feel extremely sorry for the many innocent and poor Africans at the border that day.

Welcome to Africa.

Borneoman
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Old 30 Oct 2014
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Been years since I passed that border crossing and I think it should be avoided. Bad things usually happen on tarmac, not piste.
Perhaps a good idea to continue to Nara, cross the border further east? If the gendarmes will let you go that way.
Are you in Bamako now? They didn't ask for you to take an escort?
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Old 30 Oct 2014
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Not a nice experience, hope you can relax now at the sleeping camel with a good

Kiffa - Keyes is probably the easier path...

Surfy
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Old 30 Oct 2014
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I'm wondering if the Mali borders closed in the days after the Ebola case occurred. A two year old child infected with the virus was travelling on public buses. The child passed through Kayes from Guinea over the period 19-23 Oct. The child later died.
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Old 30 Oct 2014
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According to this article, the mali-Mauri border closed on 25 October owing to the Ebola case:

Mali rushes to contain Ebola after its first case | Katarina Höije | Global development | The Guardian
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Old 30 Oct 2014
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The aternative is the Adel Bagrou border point, further east.

The piste from Mauritania to Nara (via Adel Bagrou) two months ago was quite difficult once you hit the Malian side, especially navigation, the "road" is just a maze of mud tracks and there is nobody to inquire. I ended up lost in a bog, the bike died (mud got into the elctrical system I think), and the bike was eventually extracted by a mule cart. Nara is only about 50km from the Mauritania side, but if there has been rain it's not easy.

The police were a bit more concerned once you past Kiffa, but I was never prevented from continuing. In Adel Bagrou (Mauri border point) I had to spend a frustrating day with various authority figures but I never had to pay. I did have to sign a document stating I was aware that Mali was dangerous and the Mauri government takes no responsibility for me after Adel Bagrou. On the Mali side you don't have a border point till Nara, and there it's just a simple stamp from the police, no payment or customs permit. You also don't need any more fiche documents on the Mali side, the police do not ask for them.
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Old 30 Oct 2014
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Smile

[QUOTE=Richard Washington;484609]According to this article, the mali-Mauri border closed on 25 October owing to the Ebola case:/QUOTE]


......ici....
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Old 30 Oct 2014
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yes, Jordan, this year the piste was hell, due to extensive rains, I did Timbedgha - Adel Bagrou - Nara end of sept ... really difficult, took me 3 days to cover the distance you normally cover in a good day ... Nara: first genadrmes, righr after them police, a few hundred meters further on douane, which issues a "laissez-passer" for 10.000 cfa, then - to be in perfect order - continue a few kilometres further to commisariat the police, weher they stamp your "laissez-passer". No possibility to buy insurance in Nara. Good luck.
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Old 1 Nov 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by priffe View Post
Been years since I passed that border crossing and I think it should be avoided. Bad things usually happen on tarmac, not piste.
Perhaps a good idea to continue to Nara, cross the border further east? If the gendarmes will let you go that way.
Are you in Bamako now? They didn't ask for you to take an escort?
Hi Priffe,

We are already in Bamako.

Though we did not want any escort the police forced us to accept one till Nioro and we spend the night there. We didn't pay any escort fee. They told us to sleep at the police station telling us the place is not safe but we just ignore them.
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Old 1 Nov 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burden View Post
yes, Jordan, this year the piste was hell, due to extensive rains, I did Timbedgha - Adel Bagrou - Nara end of sept ... really difficult, took me 3 days to cover the distance you normally cover in a good day ... Nara: first genadrmes, righr after them police, a few hundred meters further on douane, which issues a "laissez-passer" for 10.000 cfa, then - to be in perfect order - continue a few kilometres further to commisariat the police, weher they stamp your "laissez-passer". No possibility to buy insurance in Nara. Good luck.
Hmm, I was quite lost and who knows which direction I came into Nara. I only saw the police (if memory serves) station and I only stopped there, my stamp was free and when asked if that was everything that said "yes" and I went my merry way. No laissez passer. Nor when I re-entered Mali from the Burkina side did I need a laissez passer. Perhaps because my bike was only 125cc? I was stopped a few times in Mali and it was never requested.
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Old 3 Nov 2014
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Originally Posted by jordan325ic View Post
Hmm, I was quite lost and who knows which direction I came into Nara. I only saw the police (if memory serves) station and I only stopped there, my stamp was free and when asked if that was everything that said "yes" and I went my merry way. No laissez passer. Nor when I re-entered Mali from the Burkina side did I need a laissez passer. Perhaps because my bike was only 125cc? I was stopped a few times in Mali and it was never requested.
well, that's great
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  #12  
Old 14 Nov 2014
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Any detailed info ( Gpx- file?) on the piste Kayes - Kiffa, cause I want to avoid the gendarmerie- bastards on the Mail-side.
Will pass there in a few days, so any help will be welcome!
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