For a long time (~1 yr) I have been planning a trip round the Mediterranean. After discussions with my sponsors, insurers and family I have come to the very difficult decision of pausing my plans.

This is due to the Iraqi conflict and it's consequences for a (mostly) lone traveller in Eastern Turkey, Jordan and Syria. I am most unhappy with the actions of the US/UK coalition, but what can I do? The trip was scheduled for August 2003 and was due to last 3 months (just when I expect there will be a war).

This means I am now going somewhere else. Although I considered travelling around the Baltic, I have now decided on the following route. At the moment I am still in the "drawing on a map" stage, but I would like to ask for hep from the members of this board. I'm really unhappy about changing my plans as I have longed to ride in the Middle East for several years. I'm also quite excited about W.Africa though.

I will be riding a fully-prepped XT600Z Tenere (3AJ) with plenty of fuel and water storage. I also have a bot of off-roading, medical and mechanical knowledge. Please advise on any great routes, difficult borders, or local hotspots to be avoided or must-seen. I have been searching past posts, but there doesn't seem to be anything general enough.

I will have a detailed look through AMH and Sahara Overland tonight.

Thx guys.

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Hi Lewis,

Other more experienced drivers might have additional comments but I detected, at least, 3 problems with your planned route:

1 – crossing from Western Sahara to Mauritania is not allowed, except in the extreme south (Dakhla (Fort Guerguerat) to Nouadhibou). Moroccans have built a wall along the border between the Western Sahara and Mauritania / Algeria to keep Polisario warriors in the refugee camps of Tindouf (Algeria). Additionally, the wall is mined. Organized events, such as the rally Paris-Dakar, can cross the border but this is done under supervision of Moroccan militaries. I think that independent travellers are not allowed to do that;

2 – your planned route between Mauritania sensu lacto and Tombouctou crosses the Majabat al-Kubra (empty quarter). This means no fuel, food and most likely no water for 1000 km. I think this is not possible in a motorbike.

3 – crossing from Djanet (Algeria) to Ghat (Libya) is not allowed. Check this out: http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/ubb...ML/000450.html

Alternatives:
Going straight south until Nouakchott (Mauritania) and then head east to Timbouctou. Cross directly from Niger to Djanet, and then head north until El Oued, where you can jump to Tunisia.

Hope this helps,
José

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Desert Crocodiles of Mauritania: http://cibio.up.pt/crocodilos/en

I have amended the map - thanks very much Jose!

If you refresh, the JPG of my route will change...

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thanks for the link to the April discussion, Jose. it kind of addresses my question at the end of "Guide in Lybia" on this forum. I wonder, though, if you will get in if you have a visa for Libya. this was the clear implication (no guarantee) from my chat with the border guys in January. does the visa state where you can enter the country? is it possible there's a loophole???

Lewis - when you say you have a bot of off-road experience, do you mean bit or lot? ;-)

I may have mentioned this on the other thread, but if not...

You can't get in to Libya from the south for administrative reasons. They don't have the paperwork/number plates etc. there. So can't process your vehicle into the country. It's that simple.

Hopefully it'll change at some stage, but don't hold your breath (I don't imagine it's high on their list of priorities!).

From Agadez to Tam or Djanet is no problem, but you then have to stay in Algeria until you get to the (almost) north, and cross to Tunisia for Tozeur.

Sam.

hi, Sam. yes you did explain it ... I was being optimistic. when I rocked up to the Libyans (coming from Tin Alkoum) in January they said "no visa, no entry". I was hoping they might let me in even if they shouldn't for the reasons you state. if they were to inadvertently let me in, heaven knows what might happen later, but hopefully nothing too bad. ;-)

the real thing is, I'll be coming up from South Africa and getting a Libyan visa while in africa promises to be as much fun as finding mouse droppings in the bottom of your cereal bowl ... tips most welcome! thanks

Rich

Sam - perhaps my typo was fortuitous, as I would say I have more than a bit of experience, but not quite a lot I do love riding my aged yellow and blue camel off-road though.

Having had a more detailed read of Sahara Overland, and taken on board the comments of those above, the new route will probably be more along these lines: (map later)

I will do the standard Altlantic Route trail through Maroc via Ceuta and Spain, before heading south to Nouakchott. I will have time on the way to Nema to explore some of the CS mauritanian routes at this point. Avoiding the "empty quarter" (a Saharan Siberia (!?) I will head to Tam via Bordj. All the writing I have obtained about this region suggests heading south, but I don't see any problem with reversing the route (visa hassles??)

From Tam I will follow Sam's advice and take the Djanet piste (S.O. route A2). Do you think it's worth heading to Agadez and Seguadine? I will have time, and will go there from Tam, but is it worth the mileage? Any advice, esp. if you've been there, would be fantastic, guys.

Next up is the ride north to Tozeur, and back through Tunisia. I will probably get the boat to Sicily rather than Genoa or Marseille. My g/f works near Turin and so I'll pop in on her during the long ride back to London.

If anything I feel a lot *less* anxious about this route than my Middle Eastern one, which I will do another time. This one is much more authentically Saharan though. Perhaps I would have missed out if I'd never travelled outside Arabic and European Africa?...

Will keep you posted.
By the way, I'm looking for someone to travel with for some or all of the trip. Planning to leave in August / September. I will be on an XT600.

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By the way, I'm pretty gutted about not getting to see Libya and Egypt (another time Omar!) By all accounts some fantastic riding in both places. Still, I suppose it will all still be there in a year or two - I don't think Krak des Chevaliers is about to fall down!

I had already enquired and priced all of the visas and carnet. I don't suppose I need any onerous paperwork for this trip, just a green card and a Laissez Passer...



[This message has been edited by POB/London (edited 12 March 2003).]

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