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Photo by Lois Pryce, schoolkids in Algeria

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and schoolkids in Algeria



Trans Sahara Routes.

 
 
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Old 2 Jan 2012
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Mauritania trip report
Dear friends,

I’ve returned from a 2-month fieldwork trip to Mauritania. Below you’ll find a series of updates and info (all GPS coordinates in decimal degrees).
Overall, from the description below, you’ll find that independent overland in Mauritania is still possible but it is being more and more conditioned. Some areas can still be freely visited, like the Adrar or the PN Banc d’Arguin, but the bordering areas with other countries are hard to travel through. The police are apparently doing a good job and controls very well the territory and people. But the sense of remoteness and loneliness that you could enjoy in Mauritania some years ago is being progressively lost.

Cheers,
José


VISA in Rabat
Last October, the Mauritanian embassy in Rabat was taking 48h to issue VISAs. I don’t know if the situation has changed in the meantime. A very basic and cheap camping to wait for the VISA is at Temara plage (N33.93015 W6.953833). Many overlanders stay in this camp.


Border crossing Morocco-Mauritania
It took us 5 hours heading to Mauritania and 4 hours on the way back. On the way down, Moroccans are asking if jerrycans are filled up with fuel; if yes a few is to be paid... On the way up, they are using a car scanner to search possibly for arms and ammunition (btw, such scanner is also now installed in the new Tangier port).
Mauritanians will ask your route. If you’re transiting to Senegal or Mali there won’t be too much questions asked. If you’re planning to stay in Mauritania, then they will ask for all possible details concerning route, dates, places to stay, etc. They will insist that you should have a local mobile phone to be reachable by the gendarmerie when possible.
The temporary importation declaration issued by the Douane is only valid for 7 days and the extension can only be done in Nouakchott. If you’re heading for Senegal/Mali this should be enough. However, if you’re planning to stay in Mauritania longer than a week, then most likely you’ll be forced to go to Nouakchott to sort the paperwork in advance and then visit the country.


VISA extension in Nouakchott
VISA extensions take 24 hours. They are no longer issued by the gendarmerie (N18.090300 W15.970950). Now they are issued by the DST (approximately at N18.0889 W15.9828), but things can change rapidly. The police now demand a letter of invitation if you’re planning to stay more than 1 month. Thus, it appears that independent tourism in Mauritania is limit to a 1 month visit (or you’ll have to ask for an invitation letter to an agency).


Travelling in Mauritania
There many new police checkpoints along paved roads and pistes, all asking for a “fiche”. So be prepared with dozens of copies of the fiche (besides the vehicle licence number, include also the chassis number); we’ve given more than 100 copies during the 2 months!
Police is clearly instructed to monitor the route of travellers and you’re obliged to give details of your destination, schedule and plans for the over-night staying. They will insist on the need to sleep in cities, villages, or even on the side of the police checkpoint. Bush camping is somewhat tolerated around certain areas, like the Adrar or the PN Banc d’Arguin, but close to border areas is not accepted (including all border areas with Morocco, Senegal and Mali). Having a local mobile phone or a satellite phone may help convincing the police to let you bush camp (you’ll be asked to contact the police at certain hours to insure that everything is OK...). Night travelling is not allowed east of Kiffa, and travellers are forced to sleep beside the checkpoint after 18:30h.
All area east of 10º and north of 20º is now a military zone. This corresponds roughly to all area east of El Ghallaouiya and north of Chinguetti. The area is closed for tourism.


Routes
A large and more or less well settled track has been open from Boû Lanouâr to Choûm, covering route R1 of Sahara Overland book. A 2WD can now reach Choûm more or less easily, although some sections continue to be sandy and will need speeding.
Apparently, a paved road will be built from Atar to Zouerat. Presently, a 20km stretch north of Touâjîl is already paved to help crossing the Akchâr dunes.
The paving of the road Kaédi – M’bout – Sélibabi carries on, and the stretch from M’bout to Sélibabi is nearly complete. From Sélibabi, it is supposed to continue to Kankossa and then to Kiffa.


Fuel prices
Morocco
Rabat: 7.20 dirham/l
Sidi Akhfenir: 5.20 dirham/l
Bojador: 5.20 dirham/l
Dakhla junction: 5.25 dirham/l
Hotel Barbas: 5.37 dirham/l

Mauritania
Atar: 329.5 oug/l
Nouakchott: 321.4 oug/l
Maghta Lajar: 324.5 oug/l
Kiffa: 327.8 oug/l
Bogue: 324.3 oug/l


Exchange rates (1 euro =):
370 oug: Zouerat
380 oug: Atar
383 oug: Nouakchott
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Desert Crocodiles of Mauritania: http://cibio.up.pt/crocodilos/en
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