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North Africa Topics specific to North Africa and the Sahara down to the 17th parallel (excludes Morocco)
Photo by Andy Miller, UK, Taking a rest, Jokulsarlon, Iceland

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Andy Miller, UK,
Taking a rest,
Jokulsarlon, Iceland



Trans Sahara Routes.

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  #31  
Old 18 Oct 2019
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Ah-ha - without escort??
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  #32  
Old 19 Oct 2019
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So far, yes.
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  #33  
Old 24 Oct 2019
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Crossed into RIM today.
Some Germans did the same last week, so the idea is catching on.
Gendarmerie escort from Abadla (N6/N50 junction west of Bechar) to Tindouf.
Piste from border (below) to Zouerat, afaik.
Attached Thumbnails
New border: Algeria (Tindouf) – Mauritania (Bir Mogrein)-alg-rim-bor.jpg  


Last edited by Chris Scott; 26 Oct 2019 at 00:06.
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  #34  
Old 25 Oct 2019
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Really good news Chris thanks for the feedback.

Do you know if they mentioned going to Tindouf on their visa application form? When we take groups we get a letter of invitation which details the itinerary, and I always thought mentioning Tindouf would cause issues?
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  #35  
Old 26 Oct 2019
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As you say, Tindouf has been a restricted province since the Polisario war, certainly for tourists.
Maybe because of the proximity of the remote Morocco border, too.
https://sahara-overland.com/2016/08/...algerian-berm/

I doubt they mentioned Tindouf (no itinerary required on UK visa form; just place of stay) but being from NL, they needed no invite for a visa, just the form.
Even in Alg they didn't mention Tindouf until the very last checkpoint.
Plan B was to ship out of Oran (having come from Tunisia).
But no raised eyebrows at Abadla so Plan A worked.
And no bother with RIM visa at Hassi 75, south of Tindouf.
Which means exit via Tindouf ought not be a dirty word any more on Alg visa apps.
But will consulate staff have got the memo?

Last edited by Chris Scott; 26 Oct 2019 at 11:03.
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  #36  
Old 1 Nov 2019
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Hi Chris,
It sounds pretty good, no?
If it is possible to more precise infos, especially about getting the visa, it will be very interesting.
RR.
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  #37  
Old 2 Nov 2019
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Depending on where you are from, the visa is as hit and miss as ever.
Right now I hear Brits and French who are part of larger tour groups are experiencing visa delays once submitted.

Same old story and I don't suppose it will be any different for this route which, I am told, is classified as the Grand Sud.

If an agency escort is required from the entry point, I would hope they could be left at Abadla.
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  #38  
Old 3 Nov 2019
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I think gvdaa meaning Gerbert van der Aajust crossed
https://instagram.com/gvdaa?igshid=gw39mxs16j1
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  #39  
Old 27 Nov 2019
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Chris already posted some info on my crossing from Algeria to Mauritania. Here's my report.

We crossed in october and were two people traveling in one car (35 year old Land Cruiser). We got our tourist visa in the Netherlands, without invitation. Reservations for hotel and plane, that we canceled afterwards, and some other easy documents (proof of sufficient money on my bank account, amongst others) were sufficient.

We entered Algeria from Tunisia, near Annaba. Formalities were easy, no searches. When we left the border Algerian gendarmes mentioned "escort", but when we said we did not need one, they let us go alone. We slowly drove to Alger, spending nights in Annaba, Constantine and Djemila. All wonderfull places. At checkpoints we sometimes had to stop, but always could continue alone.

After some days in Alger we drove to Chréa, and on to Aflou and Ain Sefra. Near the Moroccan border, on our way to Taghit, we were not allowed to continue alone for the first time. The gendarmerie wanted to escort us to Taghit, like they do with all tourists. We had to follow their Nissan Patrol, no money asked. Friendly guys. While waiting we talked to them about their life, and they gave us food.

From Taghit we were allowed to continue alone to Beni Abbes. Not far after Abadla we were escorted again, all the way to Tindouf. We had to do this stretch in one go (800 km), with only some short stops. We were not allowed to sleep along the way, and were put in a hotel in Tindouf late at night (that we had to pay ourselves). In Tindouf we were not free to move around for the first time. A policeguy was posted at the hotel lobby, and did not allow us to go out in the morning. Later that day we were escorted to the Mauritanian border. Formalities easy. Mauritanian visa available at the spot. From there we had to follow about 800 km of easy piste to Zouerate, that can also be done in 2WD (easier than the old Nouadibou-Nouakchott piste). We traveled alone on this piste, without guide or escort. Did not cross the Polisario Free Zone, as most Algerians seem to do, but used Mauritanian territory.

Many Algerian trucks now use this route - and some Algerian tourists. We met an Algerian guy on a motorbike, doing Alger-Dakar. We did not meet other westerners on the route, although the borderguards said some Germans passed before us. I did not get confirmation of their crossing in Atar or Zouerate.

We did not ask permission beforehand to do this crossing. When entering Algeria I had said we planned to take the ferry from Oran to Spain (which we in any case would have done when the Mauritania crossing hadn't materialised). I sometimes asked about the Mauritania-Algeria border in the north, but nobody seemed to be sure it was open for tourists. Luckily the gendarmes at Abadla and Taghit did not seem surprised when we showed up and mentioned our destination. They had to call their superiors to get approval for our passing, but this only took some waiting (one time 15 minutes, one time about two hours).

All together things went really smooth. One warning: when we came too close to the military camp at Ain Bin Tilli some shots were fired in the air. We thought we had to report there, but were supposed to stop at a couple of hundred meters from the gate. Later the military apologised. They thought we were Malian rebels, they said, as I drove a HJ60 Land Cruiser, which is very popular in Mali, but hardly used in Mauritania.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/9082927500/
www.vanderaa-publishing.com

Last edited by gvdaa; 27 Nov 2019 at 10:37.
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  #40  
Old 27 Nov 2019
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Thanks for the report. Good tactics ;-)
Not surprised to hear one is locked down in Tindouf. Works both ways.

I think not needing an agency invite (CdH - for the visa) and escort, plus using a little-used tourist border into Alg all made it easier to slip in. And once you're in, you're in. The visa is the problem.
Once an agency is involved it goes up to some govt ministry to approve itinerary and then gets sent to [UK] consulate. Safer for some official down the line to say 'no' to something new (but much depends on nationality.)
Don't mind having to cough up for an agency escort from Oran, for example but one agency I tried claimed permission was denied. Not convinced; I am trying others.
I thought about trying a hotel booking / cancel for an agency-dodging visa but was pretty sure we could not leave Oran without an escort.
I also wonder what would happen if one's consulate got wind of such moves (well known for Alg). Might jeopardise further visits.

Free army escort I don't mind I suppose; agency $$$ might get problematical organised on the hoof in Oran.
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  #41  
Old 27 Nov 2019
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Algeria > Mauritania

Thanks for sharing your infos!

„One warning: when we came too close to the military camp at Ain Bin Tilli some shots were fired in the air. We thought we had to report there, but were supposed to stop at a couple of hundred meters from the gate. Later the military apologised. They thought we were Malian rebels, they said, as I drove a HJ60 Land Cruiser, which is very popular in Mali, but hardly used in Mauritania.“

We made the same experience in front of the military Fort El Ghallaouyia
coming from the east, direction of Mali.
Also a few hundred meters away from the military post in Laqiya Arbain – better so stop or to
drive very slowly in front of these control posts !

Ursula
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  #42  
Old 27 Nov 2019
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Hi,
Very interesting report, good news it's possible to enter with your own car from Tunisia without invitation, nor escort...I have just a question...
You said:
"We slowly drove to Alger, spending nights in Annaba, Constantine and Djemila. "
I suppose you slept in hotels (no bivouacs allowed in northern Algeria?)
So where was your first bivouac?

Thanks again,

RR.
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  #43  
Old 27 Nov 2019
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Better not try a bivouac in Algeria, I think. Police may not like it, and give you a compulsory escort for the rest of the trip. Our first bivouac was in Mauritania!

Last edited by gvdaa; 27 Nov 2019 at 13:42.
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  #44  
Old 27 Nov 2019
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Hi Gerbert
nice trip
Independent tourism making a slow comeback
So you entered Algeria at the northernmost crossing Tabarka - El Khala?
Once you're in you're in
Then you can move about rather freely with some diligence.
You drove over 1500 kms in the north before having to take an escort.
Then the trip is worthwhile.
Did they make you drive 800 kms nonstop?
I think you can make bivouac if you ask the police
Maure military will shoot yes
have hd some close encounters when they were startled
one was on the beach
even the president got shot so noone is safe really
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  #45  
Old 28 Nov 2019
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Thanks for your answers.
And do you think it's , after Taghit, to go to Beni Abbes then Timimoun without escort nor guide?
RR.
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