Hi, new thread to keep things clear.

From Tamanrasset to In Guezzam Ian and I had to stay w the guide and on the asphalt. Guide carried extra fuel in case there was none at In Guezzam (no villages in between either). Good thing because there was no fuel in town.

Border formalities a breeze but they did search our panniers for alcohol. Later served us Johnny Walker Red, confiscated the previous day! Dinner also with very friendly officials - BBQed goat and fantastic!

Camped outside frontier compound and rode to Assamakka next morning. Easy sandy piste, no hassle.

Assamakka border formalities again easy but had to pay CFA10000 per bike and if you have no carnet you can buy - forgot to ask the price. Soldiers said we had to tak earmy convoy and we waited for 3 hours to hear from chief in Arlit what cost would be. Reply came that NO ARMY CONVOY was necessary, didn't even quote a number.

Arranged private 'guide' to carry luggage because Ian's RS1200 is heavy and I hadn't been through deep sand with the loaded Dakar. GUide got 2 other vehicles to join 'private convoy' - total cost EU150.

20km from Arlit the 3 bandits struck with white Landcruiser and AK47s and hijacked one vehicle and half of our luggage as I passed their well-executed hit. The other half was in the third car. Heard at police in Arlit that shots were indeed fired but not sure at whom - MP3 player's earphones are still good! The desert is large so no action taken.

Armed convoy to 50km from Agadez was a serious affair with three army vehicles with what I think you'd call gattling guns in army slang. Took forever to get to Agadez and then Gendarmerie kept our passports, to be collected from police chief in town at 16h00.

Got new 'pannier' next day and even handmade tyre levers.

THey said there was a convoy for about 270km from Agadez to Niamey, but it was a ruse to get everyone at the Gendarmes' registration point at 06h00. No army company at all. Real bad patch of road for some distance so we rode on the pistes alongside - sandy but much better for the bikes. Ian stayed on the real 'road' for a little too long and damaged front tyre a bit. Sure he also lost some tooth enamel!

More from Burkina under new thread sometime next week.

Safe riding!
Kobus

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"The fates lead him who will; him who won't they drag." - Anon