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North Africa Topics specific to North Africa and the Sahara down to the 17th parallel (excludes Morocco)
Photo by Lois Pryce, schoolkids in Algeria

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Photo of Lois Pryce, UK
and schoolkids in Algeria



Trans Sahara Routes.

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  #1  
Old 18 May 2010
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Niger safety and general west-east camel chat

Hi all,

I have just read all the way through this thread with increasing fascination.

The Canadian Consul in Niger (who has returned since the February coup) seems very hopeful regarding the future of security in Niger - although as is often the case, this may simply mean security around Niamey and south, rather than the border areas of the North.

I was interested when looking at the map re: kidnappings in the Sahara since 2003, to note that there had been none in the desert region north of Agadez to the Libyan border - through the Tenere and up to Bilma.

Is this accurate? I had thought this area to be not only volatile regarding kidnapping, but also heavily mined.

Does anyone have any further information?

I was also intrigued to read about the profile of those kidnapped. Independent travellers do seem to be low down the scale in favour of aid workers - although the music festival kidnapping does not fit that scenario.

It seems that in many ways it is as it always was - if you travel with locals, in a low key fashion, your chances of getting through are as good as they ever were.

Problem of course is that the paperwork simply won't allow it - does anyone know if tourists have been crossing the Nigerienne/Libyan border at all from either side?

Cheers
Paula
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Last edited by Chris Scott; 19 May 2010 at 15:40. Reason: added links to original thread
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Old 18 May 2010
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... Is this accurate? I had thought this area to be not only volatile regarding kidnapping, but also heavily mined.

Hi Paula, if you mean a direct line from Agadez or Arlit to Tumu then this is a remote region with no settlements after the Aïr or tourists at all since the most recent Aïr Tuareg rebellions. Formerly Aïr borders certainly had annual raids/robberies of tourist groups and that has not stopped, just transfered to others/locals lately. I'm not sure you Canadian consul is so well informed to say what he did, unless he was referring to post coup stability as you suggest.
Though you can be one one day and the other on the next, what bandits want and what AQIM do are different.

I would not describe this region as 'heavily mined', just 'mined' here and there. An unlucky tourist was killed here (iirc) but I was recently in contact with an Agadez agency who has a good idea where the safe passages were through the Djado plateau (for camelling).

Don't forget the Italians were grabbed in August 2006 south of Bilma [2 on map] and in 2002 we met an Austrian couple in Djanet who must have been set up to get hijacked, beaten up, shot at and robbed just after the Niger border on the balise route to Chirfa. These are of course Tubu bandit ops, rather than AQIM.


Independent travellers do seem to be low down the scale...

I would not say that at all. Look at the 32 who were grabbed in 2002. I doubt very much it's how you travel/what you do - it's where you're from and then being high profile (conspicuous) or in the wrong places at the wrong time.


if you travel with locals, in a low key fashion, your chances...

Again, I don't think the latest 78-year old French guy would see it that way. Any lower profile and he'd be a gerbil.
(I'm a bit perplexed to read his driver has been extradited to Niger for involvement with the hit. I recall reading this was a guide with whom MG has travelled with for many years, but I may have got that wrong)


...crossing the Nigerienne/Libyan border...

That one's been closed to tourists for years, though like all these closed borders, with good contacts on the Libyan side it can be done.


So, I would not rely too heavily on the gaps in that map to plan future travels. They hit where westerners are most likely to be and, just like with Somali pirates, those channels are fairly predictable. Local knowledge + context is what counts.

Ch
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Old 18 May 2010
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Hi,
northern Niger is not very safe at the moment.
See for instance: Issikta -Touaregs/Bruxelles - Sahara: La région d'Agadez en proie à un banditisme résiduel sans precedent.
But transit to and from Algeria is possible.

The kidnapping Chris mentioned accured near Agadem, south of Bilma: a group of about 10 or 11 mostly italian 4x4 had been hold for a night and all except 2 people had been released. The remaining 2 were released after several weeks.

Around 2001-2003 several brutal robberiens took place north of Chirfa ( I would need to dig deep in my files to find the detailed records). Libya closed the passage of tourists at Al Gatrun several years ago due to increasing insecurity in that area.
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Old 19 May 2010
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Thanks guys..

Thanks for the timely wake up call. I should have researched more thoroughly. As per usual, I got all excited after one email and started dreaming again...:-)

Chris - re: your contact in Agadez - I would be really interested in making contact, if you would feel comfortable. I am still hopeful that in a year or so from now, finishing my trek may be possible.

Cheers and thanks again. Apologies for being a typical Australian kangaroo and Skippying to assumptions...
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Old 19 May 2010
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Quote:
I would not describe this region as 'heavily mined', just 'mined' here and there. An unlucky tourist was killed here (iirc) but I was recently in contact with an Agadez agency who has a good idea where the safe passages were through the Djado plateau (for camelling)
I re-read this and had a couple of thoughts.

In earlier posts, it was suggested/discussed that AQIM (as opposed to Tubu bandits) appeared to be more active, or based, in Mali, rather than Niger. this was certainly my experience in 2007, despite the fact that I was arrested in Niger.

Whilst I realise any speculation is just that, it seemed to tally with current events in Niger. I am intrigued that anyone is actually conducting camelling in the area - I had thought it to still be a no-go zone. Can you elaborate?

When I travelled last time, it was widely conceded that the Libyan border was always open with good contacts, as you said. unfortunately, mine are no longer in their diplomatic posts, so if anyone has good recommendations in the area of travel operators who deal with independent tourists, I would be extremely grateful.

Please forgive any ignorance on my part for topics that have already been covered and that I have missed, and I do appreciate any and all info and input.

Regards
Paula
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Old 19 May 2010
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Paula,
a serious address in Agadez is Chiriet Voyage
Best,
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