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North Africa Topics specific to North Africa and the Sahara down to the 17th parallel (excludes Morocco)
Photo by Lois Pryce, schoolkids in Algeria

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Photo of Lois Pryce, UK
and schoolkids in Algeria



Trans Sahara Routes.

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  #1  
Old 3 Dec 2009
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Situation in Mauritania since 29Nov09?

Hi
Didn’t want to hijack this thread on the hostage kidnap: http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/sahara-travel-forum/western-tourists-attacked-in-mauritania-46792
so wish to start a new thread. Has anyone travelled into/through Mauritania since the day (night) of the kidnappings? What’s the situation now in terms of security? Any change to before?

I’m monitoring the situation, but from a personal point of view... My bike is already in Malaga, I have a flight to Malaga booked for 18Dec09 and a flight from Dakar back to the UK booked for end of December (bike parking in Gambia). My plan was (and still is) to transit Mauritania down the main coast road, right past where it happened.

I intend to ride in the daylight only.

This might seem like a very silly question: How busy is the main Atlantic highway in Mauritania? Do you see a vehicle every minute/ every hour/ 5 cars all day?

Cheers for any input.

Ride and drive safely,
Chris
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Old 3 Dec 2009
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Chris, that's exactly what I also would like to know.

Furthermore, did anyone experience raised police/army/security-activity? Is all they do ask for cadeaux or do they actually contribute to safety?
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  #3  
Old 3 Dec 2009
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There is frequent traffic on the road and plenty of checkpoints. If concerned you could convoy up quite easily (although that did not help the 3 Spaniards).

Paradoxically the road is likely to be a much safer place right now, if only on the basis that it would be a strange strategy for them to attempt a repeat operation in the same area so soon.

I haven't heard what additional security measures are in place if any.
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  #4  
Old 3 Dec 2009
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It's a good question and thanks for not hijacking the main thread.

This audacious event has thrown a spanner in the works of many people's travel plans - including those who weren't looking for a hardcore desert adventure but merely wanted to transit Mori on the way to somewhere warm.

As someone said, there's a tendency to think the sky has fallen in but it's very unlikely to happen again there soon (I hope I am not proved wrong). We're talking a few hours along a good tar road with checkpoints. Do it in daylight (it seems the Spanish convoy did not) with your wits about you and, apart from the checkpoint hassle mentioned, you'll be fine.

At worst the army may impose an armed escort from NDB to NKT leaving at set times. But knowing the deal with such escorts before in WS, Niger and Egypt (for the same reasons), they just tear off towards the horizon so real no protection, just the tedium of signing on and waiting till they decide to leave.

Even when the 32 got grabbed in Algeria in 2003 it took the Algerians months to impose new escort rules on all pistes which ended the party there. If that happens in Mori it's ker-ching for local tourist agencies and another - maybe the last? - nail in the coffin for independent Saharan tourism.

Ch
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  #5  
Old 3 Dec 2009
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Hi all

Travelling on the main road is one thing but my plan for visiting Mauretania was to go inland, take a train and enjoy the dessert. This may be not a good idea at the moment though I am still wondering what to do. Has anybody tried that recently?

Furthermore, has anybody tried to get Mauretanian visa in Rabat? I hope they haven't introduced any restrictions so far.

Best regards

Pawel
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  #6  
Old 4 Dec 2009
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same question as pawel: can we still get visa in Rabat?

Normally we will start our trip from Nouadibhou to Atar near the railway and further to chingeutti, Tichit, Nema, direction to Mali, Bamako.
I hope that it will be possible to cross the border between Maroc/mauritanie.
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  #7  
Old 5 Dec 2009
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Recent news

Hi,

I just spoke by phone today with the driver of an Oasis Overland truck who is currently driving down the main NDB-NKT road with 26, yes count'em ,26 Gendarmerie as an escort.

They seem to be taking tourist security seriously.

She said that the security forces were a bit jumpy, but that apart from that, everything seemed ok.
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  #8  
Old 5 Dec 2009
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I did the road 3 days before the kidnappings I think.

From 'bou to 'chott is just less than 500km, there were 13 checkpoints then (various police and customs) but also long stretches of nothing inbetween.

There isn't much traffic, but if you stop for 30 mins usually 3-10 different vehicles would go past in that time, mostly all mercedes being taken to be sold and tourists.

Horrible place to break down, usually very windy and sandy but you wouldn't die etc. There are variouis little settlements along the way and places you can call in for tea etc (Auberges, but not the fancy western version)

Leave early in the morning (7am) and you will be in 'chott by 3pm easily and it allows a few hours for things to go wrong or taking pictures.

As ever, never tell guides/hangers on what your plans are - if going to 'chott, say you have just come from there and are going in the opposite direction etc etc

I was on the road from Kiffa to Nioro the day after it happened and noted nothing special from the Police etc - but it would take a few days to sort out.

I would imagine convoys/escorts will become the norm - surely the road through to Nioro is a much easier target if the plan is to get them into Northern Mali?
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  #9  
Old 5 Dec 2009
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In a post by "SilviaR" at Wüstenschiff :: Thema anzeigen - Entfuehrung in Mauretanien dated 05Dec09 sent from Nouakchott this lady says there is no noticeable difference in the security situation since 29nov09 compared to before. She says that in a stretch of 100km between 2 checkposts there was nobody. Between these 2 checkposts, the 3 Spaniards were taken.

She went in convoy with others.

Chris
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Old 5 Dec 2009
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Rick Travis is now in Western Sahara en route for Mauritania so he must have got his visa in Rabat a few days ago. He hasn't sent an e-mail yet to update on border crossing but he is heading further south each day according to his "SPOT" co-ordinates and he must be asking questions about the border crossing along the way. The fact that he is still heading towards the border is hopeful. Will post again with more info when known.
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  #11  
Old 6 Dec 2009
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Hi all -

I am planning to drive through Mori in about two weeks and will not be calling it off in total - the points that security will be higher and there were a lot of special features of the kidnapped workers make much sense to me.

I had though been hoping to veer off to Atar and spend a day or two visiting Ben Amira and so on then proceed to NKT. Would this be very silly and I should drive straight through to NKT from NDB? Or would it still be as safe or more as the main tar road?

This'll be my first time in Mori (though not first in post-"bad news" environment)

Luke
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  #12  
Old 16 Dec 2009
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I'm planning on riding down this road in the next few months.

As a group with a web presence we've decided to:
a) remove all travel plans
b) not ride at night (never were going to)
c) make progress in this area without being silly

I doubt that this is going to happen again. I feel that AQIM planned this using a very well publish time scale that the Spanish were using.

They wanted to make a statement, AQIM are not sitting on the road letting Mauri citizens through and Westerns being abducted. This was a raid, from Mali into Mauri then a scamper back into Mali where they are safe.

My advice would be to keep specific dates off here. AQIM will have undoubtedly looked at this site in the past. Do not advertise your dates, they are now with the increased pressure on that area unlikely to sit at the site waiting hours for you to come by. They don't want direct conflict with the military and will do what they can to avoid it.
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  #13  
Old 5 Jan 2010
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just drove it with overnight in NKT. All good really. Gendermarie are super friendly.
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  #14  
Old 7 Dec 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris View Post
Hi
Didn’t want to hijack this thread on the hostage kidnap: http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/sahara-travel-forum/western-tourists-attacked-in-mauritania-46792
so wish to start a new thread. Has anyone travelled into/through Mauritania since the day (night) of the kidnappings? What’s the situation now in terms of security? Any change to before?

I’m monitoring the situation, but from a personal point of view... My bike is already in Malaga, I have a flight to Malaga booked for 18Dec09 and a flight from Dakar back to the UK booked for end of December (bike parking in Gambia). My plan was (and still is) to transit Mauritania down the main coast road, right past where it happened.

I intend to ride in the daylight only.

This might seem like a very silly question: How busy is the main Atlantic highway in Mauritania? Do you see a vehicle every minute/ every hour/ 5 cars all day?

Cheers for any input.

Ride and drive safely,
Chris
Chris...you need to hire the service of a ex Para

one that can ride a bike

Also he need's to be good at bike maintenance

Anyone spring to mind

On a serious note , I would be more worried if I were doing this route in a 4x4,rather than on a Motorcycle.

stay safe Chris

Dazzer
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  #15  
Old 7 Dec 2009
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I got this reply to an email I sent to a contact who lives in Mauritania:

Quote
Situation is quiet.
Here also a total blackout on the kidnapping.
But for sure security has been reinforced everywhere in the country.
I cant garantee anything but would normally travel. Also all borders are normally opened and there are no restrictions.
Unquote

Chris
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