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All very well with the border. Officially it is open for tourists.
We arrived 3 days before the start of our visa, mistake on our part. But they very kindly made us an extension for 3 days (55€).
We went to customs where they searched the vehicle quite thoroughly, especially in search of drones and GPS, I use Gaia as a navigator and they are not interested in that.
An interesting issue was that the HZJ78 [TLC Troopcarrier] is considered sensitive material and we need a special authorization from the ministry to enter it, that took some time. Apparently it was the first vehicle of this type to cross the border there. The problem should be solved for the next ones.
We had an escort for about 500m until we left the border. Then in Tindouf the police were waiting for us, they showed us where to buy a SIM card and where to fill the gasoil tank. They accompanied us to the exit of Tindouf. That was all.
ALL THE POLICE AND GENDARMERIE WERE ALWAYS VERY KIND AND HELPED US WHEN WE NEEDED SOMETHING.
PS. According to the guy who sold us the diesel in Bir Moghrein, a little more than a week ago 2 Australians on motorcycles passed from Algeria to Mauritania.
PS. We did Zouerat, Bir Moghrein, Ain Bentili (not really this one showed on map. Another post southwest of this aprx 80 km from the Maroc [PFZ] border), border.
We didn't pass trough Maroc (Western Sahara) [actually Polisario Free Zone, not Mk], always on the Mauritanian side.
A mate is hoping to head southbound on his moto in a week or two.
See below
Looks like vintage Tenere-riding pal Karim has made it to Nouadhibou, having ridden down from Tindouf over 4 days or so.
He got a 10-day visa with a hotel booking, but still got some escort hassle on the road after Abdala (in the end they let him pass).
He said trucks are passed every hour or so.
Successfully crossed from Algeria to Mauritania Nov 2024
Experience Report: Tunisia -> Algeria -> Mauritania by Motorcycle
November 2024
Hey everyone, I wanted to share my experience crossing the Algerian-Mauritanian border and traveling through Tunisia, Algeria, and Mauritania on my old African Twin. I’ve put together a quick report with details on visas, routes, border crossings, and a few things I learned along the way. Hope it helps anyone planning a similar trip !
1. Visa Information:
• Algerian Visa:
• Visa Application: I applied for the Algerian visa only in my country of residence, which took about one month to process. It’s important to note that applying for special authorization to travel south requires the request to be sent to Algiers for verification, which could take up to 6 months. Since that wasn’t feasible, I applied for a regular visa instead.
• Visa Distinction: Contrary to what might be expected, there is no distinction between a regular visa and a visa for traveling to the south of Algeria. I just applied for a normal visa and was able to travel all around the country. There is a « visa on arrival » if you go with organised tour those one will be escorted. But it has been arranged before. I didn’t declare my travel to the south and no disctinction where made.
• In my opinion, French or Arabic is a must have.
2. Route and Itinerary:
• My Route:
• Entering Tunisia: I crossed the Tunisian border with ease. I was excepting Algeria to be tough but I was carried along by an officer that facilitated everything was done very quickly. They are generally very welcoming.
• Along the Coast: After entering Tunisia, I followed the coast heading south.
• Heading South: I traveled through Ghardaia, Brezina, Béchar, Taghit, and then arrived in Tindouf.
• Details on the Route:
Tunisia -> Algeria:
• Entering Tunisia was very straightforward. I got insurance at the border for less than 7€ for one month.
• Algeria:
• In Algeria, the administrative process depends on each Wilaya. In Annaba, I tried to make a declaration or a « special authorization » for travelling to the south but they told me it didn’t exist. It turns out you have to just declare yourself in each Wilaya. Ultimately, I never completed the declaration and had no issues, even outside tourist areas. You normally have to declare yourself in each Wilaya. Sometimes the police checkpoint do it for you. Sometimes a simple call to the police is enough. Most of the time I didn’t declare myself and had absolutely no issues.
• Wild camping in the Sahara Desert went smoothly. Sometimes, a simple phone call to the police (made by the host) is enough to ensure safety. Otherwise, no declaration is needed.
• Algeria was really amazing discovery the people are the most generous I never saw. Everyday and everywhere an amazing warm welcoming.
• Roadblocks: Sometimes I was stopped, sometimes not. The checks were generally quick (passport, visa, and driving license were verified). They never asked for insurance. Wait times ranged from 2 to 15 minutes. I encountered no issues at any checkpoints (gendarmerie, military, etc.). Some officers were unaware, but I simply explained that my visa allowed me to travel freely without an escort. Aside from a few waiting times, I was never escorted, and I had no problems at roadblocks or the border.
• No Escort: I traveled freely without an escort within the country. If an escort is required, it is arranged before arrival. The visa is enough to have freedom of travel all across the country without escort
Tindouf (small mistake & 24/7 escort)
• Because of the road construction from Tindouf to Zouerate and the train construction between Béchar and Tindouf. All the hotels were full of Chinese workers. After trying 10+ different hotel I saw the police main station where I stopped to ask for information. They led me to an hotel that had available rooms. Multiples police officer came to visit to have information. They also put me under a 24/7 surveillance with a civilian police escort. They told me it’s for safety but the police was unarmed and civilian with no means of communication expect from their personal cellphones. They were staying in the hotel lobby all night as well. Felt way more like surveillance than protection to me. In my opinion, It was a mistake to go to the police. I only stayed 48h just the time to prepare my departure. I was then escorted by 4 motorcycles and one truck to the end of the city (just fews kilometers) where I was left alone to continue to the Border. The police had no jurisdiction outside of the town so that’s were the escort terminated.
Tindouf -> Mauritania road and border
• There are three roadblocks between Tindouf and the border. A visa is sufficient as authorization for passage (no pass needed). Some of those roadblocks are military checkpoint I just explained that I will cross to Mauritania they checked my passeport I explained I have the authorisation through the visa and that I’m able to exit to Mauritania and they let me go after fews minutes.
They have a lot of influencers from Algeria doing TikTok or so. Generally they were thinking that I’m promoting Algerian tourism so they were very happy to see a foreigner. Never got a suspicious remark from anyone.
• Algerian Side: The Algerian border is large, with many officials (25+ customs/police officers to handle my case). The total time to exit Algeria: about 1 hour (visa verification and TPD completion).
• Mauritanian Side: The Mauritanian border is much more relaxed (only 5 people working there). The atmosphere was calm, with one officer sitting on a mat drinking tea. The visa cost 55€ (the passavant was supposed to be 10€, but I paid my remaining dinars, about 900 DZD). Took lot of time they just sit around and do nothing no problem appart from the waiting time.
Mauritania (Tindouf -> Zouerate):
• Tracks: There are several possible tracks between Tindouf and Zouerate. Ask truck drivers as they are familiar with the routes on Maps.me. You can export their GPX file from their phone they mark a point on their application every kilometer.
There’s a new 50 km track from Tindouf, which then connects to two main tracks. Be aware that each countries’s truck driver uses their own path in the deserts. (Algerian, Saharoui and Mauritanian uses their own roads accros the desert)
• The Mauritanian track is awful till Ain Ben Tili with a very degraded and sandy track. The good point is that there is no trucks crossing through SADR anymore so you’ll find some company along the way 3-5 trucks a day.
• Difficult Track: Passing through the SADR (Sahrawi Arab Democratic Republic) is possible, but not recommended. Up to Ain Ben Tili, fuel availability (especially for motorcycles) is uncertain. In Ain Ben Tili you have a small shop, diesel available and I was able to found fuel after some tough négociations.
Ain Ben Tili -> Bir Moghrein:
• The route doesn’t follow Google Maps or Maps.me, as Sahrawi trucks take a more northern route following the telephone antennas.
• There are two GPS points for the antennas, with tents selling supplies to the north.
Bir Moghrein -> Zouerate:
• In Bir Moghrein, black market fuel (0.9 to 1€/L) is available near the edge of town heading toward Zouerate.
3. Precautions and Warnings:
• Security in the Region: Be vigilant, as there have been Moroccan drone bombings targeting trucks in the area. Stay alert and informed about the local situation.
4. GPS point of interest :
Ain Ben Tili :
Main Shop and Diesel
(25.8760599, -9.5486986)
Second smaller shop with unleaded Fuel
(25.8716797, -9.5205224)
Ain Ben Tili - Bir Moghrein
I took a northern track that the one on google Maps following Cellular Antennas with small tents that have water and some small supplies. This is the track taken by Saharouis
2 points with Antenna and water :
(25.8959567, -9.9885819)
(25.7933392, -10.2820380)
Antenna and small village (south of G maps road)
(25.3542475, -10.7264553)
Antenna with small shop
(25.2004636, -11.1194177)
Hope this was helpful I’ll will stay on this thread so I can provide more information if you have any questions.
Great report SwissR. Just what was needed.
I assume you are on a moto and the piste was easy enough?
Did you use hotel booking for visa app, or not needed for Swiss?
fyi, you did not enter the 'Grand Sud' region (more of less south of In Salah) where escort travel can be more difficult to dodge.
Staying north, as you did, avoids this.
I did not know about 2 different visas - just an additional permit required for the south. Anyway; it worked for you.
I think the VoA is only at airports right now. We just went through the process.
Send visa form to agency > they send to Tourism Ministry > an authorisation is issued with a QR > you pay ~ ¢100 on arrival (depends on duration of stay). We find out tomorrow.
Also, afaik Moroccan drone bombings only occur inside SADR territory (usually north sector), hence no pushback (that we hear about) and why tourists are advised to avoid.
Bombing transport in Mauritania just for being transport, would be going too far.
Also, afaik Moroccan drone bombings only occur inside SADR territory (usually north sector), hence no pushback (that we hear about) and why tourists are advised to avoid.
Bombing transport in Mauritania just for being transport, would be going too far.
Wrong moroccans did hit in the top north of Mauritania ... but since the berm goes inside that part in mauritania the rogue state of morocco probably thinks its theirs.
Mauritania didn't say anything though, they just increased tariffs on moroccan goods.
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