I did some research last year, and from what I understood, all Cosmodrome area is closed: you need double entry russian visa, special permit and tour arranged to visit.

Also Baykonur town is closed.

Checkpoints are south of the M32 for the town, north of it for the cosmodrome.

Do you know if it is possible to ride through? I mean from Qysylorda to Aral or does one must go around?

Thanks,
Joe

You can ride on the M32 no problem.
Checkpoints and restricted areas are north, to the cosmodrome, and south, to the entrances of Baykonur town, just south of kazakh city of Tyuratam, which is open.

You can see some picture of the area from my trip there last year at this page

I'm on my way to Baikonur!
will be there in about three weeks. but I'm still waiting for my permit to enter the Cosmodrome.
afaik you only need the permit, not a Russian visa. I've got a visa to cross Russia, but I think mine will be expired when arriving in Baikonur...

Let us know how it goes!

I'm currently applying for visiting the Baikonur Soyuz ISS 51S launch on July 28th. I will be riding the 'stans with my motorcycle then, and as the launch was postponed from end of May it now gives me a chance to see it. Maybe.

The agency told me that it is NOT possible to enter Baikonur town without a booked tour or without a guide. On top you need a double-entry visa if you arrive/return from Moscow, or continue to drive on to Russia as is my plan. That implies they will take one entry from your Russian visa for Baikonur town and cosmodrome, which makes sense as it is actual Russian territory. You stay under their control all the time after you have met your guide and entered the restricted zone (tour bus shuttleing between town and cosmodrome will not let you get out in Kazakh territory inbetween).
Baikonur is still a place with many secrets and controlled through the FSB, so it is little wonder you have to virtually drop your pants, and the permit comes from Moscow only.

That also means the musem and the Buran shuttles are only to be seen with an expensive tour. Correct me if you managed differently. Normally they even offer the 'tourist visits' only on chartered flights, but I was told through the agency I would be able to join on-site also. But I was told I was NOT allowed with a foreign vehicle into town, so I would need to park it either at the airport or in the (kazakh-controlled) town of Tyuratam right next to Baikonur.

I will keep you updated about my progress and procedure given.

If somebody has a hint where to best and safest store my bike for a few days while on offical tour I'd be glad to hear.

I also booked an expensive tour, which includes a hotel for two nights. I expect to leave the bike at the hotel and drive to the Cosmodrome with the tour bus. But maybe the hotel is already in the Russian zone?
But as I don't have a multi entry visa, I asked the tour agency about that and they said, only the permit is needed (kazachstanreizen.nl).
I hope that's true or I'm out there and can't enter the Cosmodrome

The launch was first planned for May 28th, that's why I'm now on the way.
Lucky you for the rescheduling to July!

I'll update in a few weeks...