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Photo by Hendi Kaf, in Cambodia

I haven't been everywhere...
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Photo by Hendi Kaf,
in Cambodia



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  • 2 Post By colebatch
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  #1  
Old 28 Jan 2016
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BAM and ROB roads 2016?

Hi,

this summer we want to make expedition Mongolia ande Siberia. Our plan is enter the Russia from Ulanbatar and then going to Severobajkalsk. Here we have two possibilities.

1. Try to get BAM road to Taksimo and then Vitim bridge and then to Tynda. Then to Yakutsk and Magadan. Back road from Magadan to Yakutsk then ti Mirny, Lensk and Barge from Lensk to Ush-Kut....

2. From Severobajkalsk to Ush-Kut. Then Barge to Lensk. From Mirny to Yakutsk and then to Magadan. Back from Magadan to Yakutsk and then to Tynda. All BAM from here to Severobajkalsk and then to Bratsk....home

Could anyone tell us what is the condition of this parts (of course when will be good wheather), the bridges, water crossings etc?

We have 4x4 expedition car. Ford Bronco. Do you think, it is possible to get this parts with car? Or it is very difficult?

- It is possible to take a barge on Lena river in both diretction? Ush-Kut - Lensk and Lensk - Ush-Kut too?


Thanks a lot for any relevation and actual information

Martin & Zuzana

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  #2  
Old 3 Feb 2016
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Hi there,
I also plan to go to Far East Russia this summer to ride the BAM and RoB to Magadan. This will be in July.

My plan is to ride as fast as possible from Romania to Lake Baikal (10-12 days depending if I spend some days in the Altai/Tuva) and then head on the BAM and RoB to Magadan.
I will be on a motorcycle, a Honda Transalp. From Magadan I want to ship the bike to Europe and will fly home.

I don't know how it is with a car.

I’m also looking for anyone planning a similar trip, and want to share information and ride together at least parts of the road and/or organize the shipping of the bikes back.
Let exchange info and keep contact.

Adrian
asilindean@gmail.com
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  #3  
Old 3 Feb 2016
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Great, we want to be there in August. Before we want to visit Mongolia few weeks...

maybe we see you there in Siberian jungle

we post here some update soon.

Martin
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  #4  
Old 11 Mar 2016
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Hi guys,

I am planning start my trip either in Valdivostok or in Magadan, in July. Is anyone interested about the Eastern BAM, the 110, or the old summer road?

Is anymore starting a trip as well from Magadan or Vlad?
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  #5  
Old 14 Mar 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zimi View Post
Hi guys,

I am planning start my trip either in Valdivostok or in Magadan, in July. Is anyone interested about the Eastern BAM, the 110, or the old summer road?

Is anymore starting a trip as well from Magadan or Vlad?
Talk to "Kito"
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  #6  
Old 18 May 2016
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Bam rob

Hi all

I'll be around Irkustk mid to end July heading towards Magadan. Route to be confirmed but if anyone is doing 110 north then drop me a line please.

Thanks

Felix
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  #7  
Old 8 Aug 2016
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Hi there, I completed the old summer road one week ago with 3 other riders.

you can find my report with pictures here:

https://www.facebook.com/zimiontheloose

And there is another group of riders, "the BAM riders" who just completed it yesterday.

27-29th august 2016: The Old Summer Road

It was already 5pm when we left the ghost town of Kadykchan. The turnover to the mighty Old Summer Road is just a track without any sign or indication.
A mixed feeling of excitement and fear caught me. Finally, I was on the Old Summer Road, after all this time reading other’s reports and dreaming about riding it myself. I was lucky to have met these crazy guys ready to give a try against all advises we got from locals because I would never have done it alone.

When we reached the Arkagala river, water was shallow, the crossing was no problem at all, almost to easy to be true…
Well yes indeed, the real deal was awaiting us 50 meters further. The current was strong and after Dima volunteered to cross it by foot, we saw that the level was almost up to his waste. It was technically impossible with our bikes because the air intake would be under water. It took us a while to find the ideal place to cross the river. Misha found that the stream was much wider on the left side of the broken bridge. Water was not higher than knee level.

We went on until the second river which was small and where the concrete bridge was even still passable. I would have continued until the hunter’s camp, but the guys wanted to camp here, because there would be less mosquitos and access to drinking water, which was a smart decision. We set our tents on the bridge and after the soon to be become traditional dinner made from tin boxes of meat and instant noodle we had Samagon!
When I thought that they ran out of Samagon, there was always another bottle hiding somewhere. Dima from Belarus had another 1.5l PET bottle that he distilled himself at home. His Samagon was made from honey and berries and contained only around 42% alcohol so I was able to keep up with the shots.

Then, they all went in the river to have a shower. Good idea I thought, and I was about to do the same until I put my feet in the water. What the ****!!! The water was so cold that my heart almost stopped beating. How on earth could they bath in this river? At this exact moment, I understood why the Russian won the Second World War and why I live in a neutral country… Well, my shower will wait for another day or two I guess…

The next morning, we woke up around 6:30 am. I know now that the guys need time in the morning, for coffee, Samagon, hot food, smoking and packing. All the process takes around 2 hours. We shared the extra 25 liter Misha and Dima were carrying between all 4 bikes. With all tanks full, we should have enough to go back in case we have to.

Misha’s battery was flat again and he made a hole in is boot by trying to kick-start his Suzuki. We managed to push-start his bike and by 9am we were finally ready to rock.

I was leading the group and everything was going well until I tried to cross a river like a fool, without first checking the depth and even worst, going in the middle… Too much self-confidence is dangerous…

When my engine stopped and I felt my balls getting wet I knew that I really ****ed up. There was one very deep path and I went straight in it…
Misha sacrificed his dry clothes to help me pushing the bike out of the river.

I had to get the water out of the engine and exhaust, change the air filter, oil and both oil filters… The whole process took almost 2 hours.
I felt really stupid for making us lose time for such a mistake but the guys didn’t mention it.

The further we went, the worse the road became. So far, all the river crossings were easier than the first one. Although Dima felt a few times, because his KTM is too tall and way to heavily loaded for him, he never had water in the engine.

What caused us the most problems were the bogs and the swamps. In some section, there was just one bog after another, and we probably did all the possible mistakes, like going around and getting stuck in the mud, each one of us several times, or driving in the bog without first walking through. Mainly we were trying to ride around them, as far as possible from the water to have a firmer ground, but it didn’t always work well.

It was hard work pulling the bikes out of the mud. At some point, Misha was stuck and I was trying to push him out. He was revving his engine very high and eventually burnt his clutch!

We got the bike out, but there was no way he could continue driving so we attached his bike with a rope to Dima’s XR650 and pulled him for 5 km until the next river. That was a hard job and it took us again a lot of time and efforts, because there were several other huge bogs on the way.
It was around 7 pm when we reached the river and we decided to set our camp here for today and somehow try to fix the bike.

At that point we were still 160km away from Tomtor and we had no idea what was awaiting further. I was pretty worried, thinking that it may good be over for our trip or at least Misha’s bike. Either we will have to leave his bike here or go back pulling him, but none of the options would be easy.

As Misha was about to open the side cover of the engine to have a look at the clutch, I realised that the lever had no play at all. I completely loosen the tensioner and it still didn’t have play but the clutch action seems to work. We adjusted the clutch lever on the engine, until we had some play on the lever.
The battery was dead again, and we had to take the bike of the other side of the river to push start it but… the clutch was working! That was an unbelievable moment! At that exact moment, not much in the world could have made us happier. We will be able to continue tomorrow.

Of course, this good news didn’t go without shots of Samagon and various toasts. In general, the Russian Dima was the guys making the toasts. In Russia, before drinking a shot, someone always makes a toast. The first time, it’s usually “for the meeting”, and then you can have a thousand different excuses to make toast. I am already pretty used to the toasts in Russia, but today I learned that when you make a toast for people that died on the road, you don’t shake glasses.

The guys decided to nickname our team, the “invalid team” because we ****ed up so much until now. The Russian Dima had a different way to speak that most Russians I met until now and I had sometimes problems to understand him. What I understood is that every second word in his sentences was a combination of the either the word “dick” or “pussy” or similar Russian bad words. The Russian language has way more bad words than we have in French, German or English and they have endless combination of them.
Although he was the guy I understood the less, he knew a little bit of English and sometimes he tried explaining me things when I didn’t understand it in Russian. In general, the communication was not a problem between them and me, they would always try to explain things the way that I can understand them.

We collected a lot of wood along the river to make a huge fire to keep bears away from our camp. Today we saw on several occasion bear footsteps and poo on the road. Dima and Misha had flares and some distress signal guns, and they even gave me one of each.

The next morning we were ready to leave around 10 am. Less than 500m after starting, we already had to walk through the first bog. And it went on and on. Then, some 30 meters of the road was missing and we had to ride back, find a way down to the river and cross the river twice to get out from the other side. It took us a good hour and we were not 5km further.
The road seemed to get worse as we were progressing. Again, a whole section was missing and we had to put all our manpower together to get each bike after another back on the track.

So far, we had a fantastic weather, war and sunny, and most of the track was dry. I can’t even imagine how much more difficult it would have been if raining.

Around noon, we ran into the most improbable thing you would ever imagine on the Old Summer Road. In the middle of a bog stood a Kawasaki GPZ, a street bike with street tires. Helmet, bags, motorcycle boots and clothes were lying around.

Dima, on his way to Magadan met this guy, Sasha, from Lithuania, about 2 weeks ago. They even exchanged their phone numbers. Of course, that wasn’t very useful at the moment because since we left Susuman, we didn’t have phone coverage anymore.
There were no traces of him, and looking at his stuff, we assumed that he went back by foot. We took the bike out of the bog and tried to start it without success.
Although we were pretty worried about what might have happed to him, finding his bike here was very good news for us. If the guy, no matter how good he was made it from Tomtor to here (150km) on this bike, it meant that all the rivers were crossable.

Around 2pm we reached the monument indication that we were entering the Oymyakon district. There were a few stickers from all expeditions that passed here through the years and we put ours as well. When I thought that we finally ran out of Samagon, Dima just pulled another liter from his luggage…

The guys decided to have lunch here, and as I usually do when we have some time, I jumped on the opportunity to take some pictures with my drone.

Some 100km from Tomtor came another tricky water crossing. Dima slipped and felt in the river. His Honda had water in the engine so we had to go through the whole process like on my bike the day before.

70km from Tomtor we found an abandoned settlement and judging by the amount of electronic equipment lying around, it was probably this radio station that Nikolai from Susuman told us about. There were huge fuel tanks and 3 big diesel engines, probably to produce electricity. Most of the buildings were half destroyed but there was still a wooden baniya (sauna) in pretty good shape.

Except a few tricky passages, there were no major difficulties anymore and the 2 major rivers still had bridges. I am quiet impressed that the guy with the Kawasaki made it so far. He had several river crossing and some funky passages, especially with a road bike. Can’t understand how he went on instead of turning back once he saw how bad was the road.

The Indigirka, some 20km before Tomtor is a huge river that would never be crossable without the bridge. The sun was slowly going down and the place just looked incredibly beautiful.

Around 9:30pm we were in Tomtor. That’s it! We mad it! We are the fist bikers to complete the Old Summer Road this year!

I just realised a few minutes later that I have lost my waist belt containing all my documents (passport, bike document, custom papers, money, credit card)…

please check my Facebook page for pictures.

Last edited by Zimi; 8 Aug 2016 at 07:17.
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  #8  
Old 8 Aug 2016
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Congrats on the ROB. And those drone shots are seriously cool--did anyone give you a hard time for using/having the drone?
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  #9  
Old 8 Aug 2016
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Thanks!
No problem with the drone. In most places there was nobody else than us anyway, but I used it in Yakutsk and usually children get crazy about it and people want to know how much it costs, but that's it.

The only place where I almost had problems was in the airport in Geneva when I was leaving switzerland. They fist told me that I was not allowed to carry Li-on battery on a plane, before checkin and saying that I needed to carry the battery in the cabin.
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  #10  
Old 8 Aug 2016
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Interesting about the drone, thanks.

I wouldn't think the average person would care much, but was wondering if customs guys gave you a hard time, or if any cops saw you, if they did.
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  #11  
Old 2 Dec 2020
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We did it!

Hi, I found this our old post here so I put here some photo of our trip...

Legendary VITIM bridge. 500m length, 2,3m wide


On the half way is only one spot where you can go outside from the car


BAM road - here we are! Close to city Severobajkalsk






























All photos are here:

https://www.facebook.com/pg/broncona...50340644996239

here is trailer from our road movie...


Last edited by bronconamiestohotela; 4 Dec 2020 at 09:25.
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  #12  
Old 2 Dec 2020
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Excellent photos, makes me want to go there tomorrow! Well done guys. Now how about a few words to go with the photos, maybe captions? You CAN edit the post to add
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  #13  
Old 24 Jan 2021
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I just saw this thread and WOW those pictures are incredible. A few hair raising crossings I see.
Love to hear more about that trip. I agree with Grant. What I saw makes me want to head out and go there.
Thanks for posting that.
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  #14  
Old 25 Jan 2021
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Great pics, thanks. You've got more guts than me going across the Vitim River Bridge!
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  #15  
Old 26 Jan 2021
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Stunning Pictures, thanks for sharing them!



I just love your Rig-Setup! Thanks for your hint on FB to your Rig Build-Up Section: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...55259217837717

I`m very jaelous - would be a dream to be able to build that at your own!

I`m planning on my transibiria currently. Hope to bring enogh time for these kind of tracks.

Jakutsk/Magedan vs Wladiwostok (and the option of nord corea) - hard decisions! Or is there a reasonable "and"?

If my Plan is Wladiwostok then a visit of Magadan (and road of bones (P-504)) would brings 6000km to the bill...

Was the track Skoworodino to Magadan worth to do it twice? Road of bones is just a part of it, after Jakutsk... Or in other words - was it an adventure after the BAM - or more or less eating miles on a bad dirttrack?

With Baikal - BAM - Wladiwostok the route wouldnt look so bad...

Surfy

Last edited by Surfy; 26 Jan 2021 at 16:23.
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