This summer I'll ride from Kyrgyzstan to Tajikistan. The plan is to cross the border at Kyzyl-Art Pass, between Sary-Tash and Karakul Lake. I'm aware that you need a GBAO-permit to ride in this Tajik region (Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region). I tried to find information, but came across conflicting information.

Hopefully anyone has reliable information to answer these questions:

1. The border situation between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan seems to be "back to normal" since last summer 2023, at least for tourists. Tourists would be able to cross the border without any additional steps to take (for example register somewhere or go to an embassy in advance). Is this correct?

2. I travel visa-free. So I need to obtain the GBAO-permit seperately. I thought to get it at the Tajik embassy in Bishkek. I read different information this would or wouldn't be possible. Can anyone give a definitive answer?

3. If Bishkek is not possible, would it be possible to cross the border without the GBAO-permit? I read somewhere on Caravanistan that you would be able to register in Murghab, but I doubt if this is really true (since there's no OVIR office afaik).

4. If this is also not possible, would the only way to cross into Tajikistan be coming from Osh and then obtain the GBAO-permit in Kuhjand or Dushanbe? Or are there maybe other solutions?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Talk with Erali from Destination Pamir. destinationpamir@gmail.com He should be able to get you the GBAO permit from Osh and get you on the list to cross the Kyzyl Art border.

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I think the only people who can give you a definitive answer are the Tajik embassy in Bishkek: https://mfa.tj/en/main/country/kg

Might be easier to get a Russian-speaker to phone them up and ask (obviously a Tajik speaker would be ideal).

Thanks Zorro! Came across his name multiple times in my researching; apparently he's a responsive guy. Will contact him.

Question: since I will be traveling visa-free, I need to register within 10 days. Is this possible in Murghab? Is there an OVIR office? Or another place I should go to? Maybe someone knows, but I will ask Erali as well

I just did crossing 2 weeks ago. Osh to Murghab. No issues.
USA passport.
I got GBAO permit a month prior and printed. You will need 2 copies, 1 on enter, 1 on exit. $20
Permit to cross. Whatsapp contact, sends you website to pay ($15), reply with receipt number, send passport image and all is good. Takes a week to get your details sent to border. At border, they ask for date applied, find your name and good to go.

Let me know if you need any contact details.

You got both the GBAO permit and your registration for the border crossing at the same guy? Was this Erali from Destination Pamir in Osh? I got his details. Should this be someone else, please share contact details.

GBAO came from Adventures Taj info@tajadventures.com. He was able to get me invite letter (didn't help getting evisa) and again getting GBAO ($20). It came emailed to me as a PDF that was printable prior.

Border crossing permit came from Visit Alay ($15)
Contacted on whatsapp +996777710077
They replied saying name is Sali with Visit Alay. They send you a link for on-line payment www.wetravel.com
Send message of receipt number, passport image and process takes a week.

If you plan to cross both ways, you need two permits.