This summer I'll ride from Kyrgyzstan to Tajikistan. The plan is to cross the border at Kyzyl-Art Pass, between Sary-Tash and Karakul Lake. I'm aware that you need a GBAO-permit to ride in this Tajik region (Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region). I tried to find information, but came across conflicting information.

Hopefully anyone has reliable information to answer these questions:

1. The border situation between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan seems to be "back to normal" since last summer 2023, at least for tourists. Tourists would be able to cross the border without any additional steps to take (for example register somewhere or go to an embassy in advance). Is this correct?

2. I travel visa-free. So I need to obtain the GBAO-permit seperately. I thought to get it at the Tajik embassy in Bishkek. I read different information this would or wouldn't be possible. Can anyone give a definitive answer?

3. If Bishkek is not possible, would it be possible to cross the border without the GBAO-permit? I read somewhere on Caravanistan that you would be able to register in Murghab, but I doubt if this is really true (since there's no OVIR office afaik).

4. If this is also not possible, would the only way to cross into Tajikistan be coming from Osh and then obtain the GBAO-permit in Kuhjand or Dushanbe? Or are there maybe other solutions?

Thanks in advance for your help!