hi,
as for my experience, avoid ashgabat; it'll be a waste of time as you can invest ride towards uz. by the way; if you intend to visit khiva (highly reccomended) you can skip turkmenabat border riding from ashgabat north to darvaza, new and smooth road across the kizil kum desert, to nukus in uz. custom procedures weren't an hassle and the place itself it wasn't crowdy. from nukus you'll ride along (and across) the amu darya to reach khiva (beautiful) and from there bukhara.
tecapi?
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