Did the road a couple of days ago

Note ... there is no "The" road of bones as the russians do not have a definite article "the". Road of Bones (Doroga na Kostyakh) is a term no longer even used by the Russians (to them its all the Kolymsky Trakt) but refers to the roads that linked Khandyga with Magadan ... all the roads were originally built by Gulag prisoners in the 1930s and 1940s and coincided with the discovery of gold and uranium in the region. To exploit these newly discovered resources, Stalin and Beria sent hundreds of thousand to the Kolyma region and the gulag camps of the Kolyma Ring (The Kolyma Ring is the circuit made by the two eastern most roads in the road of bones network - the two different roads from Magadan to Susuman) Many of thos prisoners worked the gold and uranium mines and the rest made the roads. Those who died were used as landfill for the next section of road - thus the name

The road is in pretty good shape. We did the 2000 km road in just over 3 days and that included 7 flat tyres. One route in particular has now been declared a federal road and a lot of money is being spent on it. As at July 2009:

- The old summer road from Kyubeme to Kadykchan is totally unmaintained and impassable except in August and early September.

- The old winter road (zimnik) from Kyubeme to Ust Nera is now a good thru road. 2009 is the first year thats the case - they have been working on it for a good 5 years or so and now it all connected. Still a few bridges being worked on, but no major hassles.

- Of the two routes from Susuman to Magadan, the westernmost alternative (Tinkinsky Trakt) is the recommended route. The easternmost route (the federal road) is less interesting in terms of scenery and is more heavily trafficked.

- There are definite plans (now that it has federal road status) to bridge the Aldan river at Khandyga, and surveying for construction is already underway to build a railway and road bridge across the Lena at Yakutsk -a project due to be completed within 3-4 years..

- There is 92 octane fuel at Yakutsk, Churapcha, Ytyk-Kuel, Khandyga, Kyubeme (fuel but no town), Ust-Nera, Artik (sometimes), Susuman, Omchak,Ust-Omchug, Palatka and Magadan, plus I have been told there is 92 octane fuel on the easternmost federal road at Yagodnoye, Orotukan, Akta and Karamken as well.

- stock up on food at Khandyga. There is NOTHING except lovely scenery between Khandyga and Ust-Nera (over 500 km), apart from the fuel station at Kyubeme.

- the fuel critical stretch on this route is Ust Nera to Susuman. The fuel station at Artik sometimes has fuel and sometimes doesnt. If it doesnt, the bikes need to travel 470 km from fuelling in Ust Nera to the fuel depo at Susuman. The road is good gravel and suitable for cruise at any economical speed you fancy ... from 60 - 140 km/h.

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