Well, the family I stayed with in Savnob clued me in. Germans from the western parts of the USSR were relocated to Tajikistan, among other soviet republics, because they were deemed a security threat during WW 2.

Bartang Valley was amazing. Conditions pretty much same as Seb described, minus the rock fall. Water maybe a little higher, judging from the size of the "island".

Saw Patrick and his group. They didn't see me though, as I was up a hill to the side of the track.

Typed on my phone with my thumbs and gloves on

cool cool cool, you did it and Muztoo also then!
That's good news!

I was rather early at the 'island', started riding at 0600 that morning... ;-)
Guess the earlier at the river, the better!

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I met some people in Tajikistan who served in the USSR army in East Germany, Whilst staying in the same small Pamir village for a total of 2 weeks various family's would show me old photos and many where of older family members in East Germany

Yes, this is very common, but trust me, this was not an opportunity for the conscripts to learn the language. I grew up next to a huge soviet military airport. The only people that got out of the base with any regularity where the higher officer's wifes. Living conditions were appalling and quite often people from very remote parts of the Soviet Union were shipped of to East Germany for 2 years. However, when talking to people in the ex soviet republics, they quite often proudly mention their time in East Germany. I always ask how often they got out of the base and the answer is between 0 and 1.

That being said, whenever we did have contact, these guys were always friendly. Hitched many (illegal) rides on soviet military trucks back then and there were always cigarettes and vodka going around, which was great as a teenager :-) As kids we always tried to make the soldiers guarding the fence smile. Most of the time it worked.

Typed on my phone with my thumbs and gloves on

Hi Seb. We agree on Bartang (how sweet is it on your tongue...). We took 3 days just out of joy and fun.
We also agree on: the less weight, the more fun. As you see our bikes it was a lot of fun.

CHeers

Attached Thumbnails

 

 

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PERRRRRR-FECT!

I'm glad you did and obviously enjoyed it.
I like the first pic, saw a few of them but being alone it was nearly impossible to get a shot like that.

So, I think we can officially 'open' the Bartang Valley for adventure riding!

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I just did the Bartang valley track again, this time going east to west. Much, much dryer than last September. The flooded bit of road where Seb lost his GPS was now 1/2 m above the water level and it was easy getting out of Savnob. Locals say there was very little snow last winter.

Just a couple of dodgy bits. One, a bit of snow and ice in a rocky gully, coming around the 90 deg bend, 1/3 to Gudara. Had to engage in a bit of track building as I had to line up the bike perfectly along the only feasible path through the rocks/water. Problem was the ramp up to this bit was a block of ice with no grip. No room for mistakes. Made it through.

Between Gudara and Savnob there was a bit of a rock slide on a steep slope. Left just enough room to get through with a bike. You don't want to mess this up, would be a deep fall. A bunch of guys were manually restoring that bit by shifting rocks from the high side to the low side. They wanted to get through on an old Russian truck.

I spent a couple of nights with the lovely Alivbekov family again in Savnob (GPS 38.31697,72.41417). A nice new Pamir style house. The kids speak passable English and I spend my evenings playing board games and watching "Snakes on a Plane" on Afghan TV. Highly recommended. Savnob is a peaceful oasis with friendly and curious locals. You pay what you feel like paying. Don't be cheap.

Steffen, pictures!!

Steffen, this is great news!

I'm suddenly feeling "old" traveling now on 4wheels around the world...

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I will bookmark it

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Hello to everyone!
A few of you interestingly answered about the shortcut Karakul-Rushan; much inspiring!
I'll try to do it in September!

But how about "Bulunkul near Alinchur to Savnob (norht west)"?
Where's this road? It's really not clear.
Would someone explain, please?
Also, really there's no driveable road to lake Sarez?

Thank you!!

Hi.

But how about "Bulunkul near Alinchur to Savnob (norht west)"? If you find a road, we will be interested, but no one has tried it.

Also, really there's no driveable road to lake Sarez?
There is a check point that will not let you pass trough.

CHeers

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Ok Muztoo, thanks!

I did the Bartang valley two weeks ago and it has been a great riding experience. One of the best things I've ever done. This thread inspired me to do it but in the end I was not going to. I was aiming at quantity and wanted to do the Wakhan valley. One day in the Pamirs I met two young German cyclists on the M41 near Rushan. They were going to do the Bartang and I thought I had already past the turnoff point. I did not. Considered it again since the name of that valley had been resonating through my mind throughout my journey. No. Left the guys and wished them good luck. 4km Out of Rushan I get to the intersection and I stand there 10 minutes contemplating. Supposedly this route was not right for my bike (240kg) but I wanted to do it really bad. The cyclist caught up with me and started laughing. I laughed and said **** it. The rest is History, best decision of my life.

Did it in three days, one day only 30km for many reasons (hospitality, quest for water etc). You can do it in two, recommend three days, take it all in. If you come in from Rushan you get a steep climb up to 3.800m after around 160km (enjoy your carburetor) with narrow dirt and rock hairpins. Coming from the east you get that going down. I can’t imagine a massive fully customized 1200GS going through that. Rivers were very manageable (conditions may vary). Coming from Rushan there will be no more villages after halfway point, so no more petrol, food etc.. You can drink the water from the beautiful blue sparkling rivers (skip the gray stuff though).

Meet fat Alp (we go way back)


Love these sandy patches and dunes in the Pamirs




Alp and one of the many unsung heroes of the Bartang


Relax after a messy hour. Routine backing up, drop bike, too heavy to pick up due to slope, everything has to come off. No breakfast, had no more water, hot sun and not a human being in sight


Fancy a game?


Words, none needed


Fairly long bits of riverbed in the valley, enjoy




The bowl to Barcadev


Screenshot from the new FarCry game








Fairly deep but narrow


The ascension to 3.800 meters, don't fall


High on life and lack of oxygen


Sent a friend I met in Kyrgyzstan on a XT that way (don't die Liam). Would have gone back with him if it wasn't for Russian visa.

One day I'll come back on a lighter bike earlier in the season when things are a bit more hectic and melty. I cannot imagine the Pamirs without the Bartang. Still the highlight of my journey and it altered the way I look at riding. I want more of this.

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Mr. Mota, great! And great pictures!
Thanks for sharing!
Hey, a couple of things about Bartang:
1 is there any homestay/accommodation between Ghudara and Karakul?
2 did you find fuel on the way? I mean...locals were having fuel to sell?

Thank you and congrats!!

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