Hey guys,
Definitely, the bartang is a top highlight of the trip. Quite challenging, as already said. (i did with a DRZ, first week of October).
I just wanted to share some details on where to get the road from Karakul.
From what i gathered there are 2 tracks from karakul lake:
Road Number 2 is the main road shown on main maps. However, when i got to karakul village, everyone said it was totally flooded, and also on the forum people said it was sometime flooded. I didn't try it.
I got intel that i should take another road (shown also on the most detailled pamir hiking map). road number 1 on my diagram.
its lots of small tracks exiting pamir highways, 10-15k from karakul village, they merge into a bigger one that's easy to follow, it goes along the lake. The track is very fine until it gets to the river crossing. Here the water flows from the lake into a river, so the river is madeup of 20 small streams that get bigger afterwards.
The tracks seems to be quite very very muddy when temperatures are higher. As for me the mud was frozen, so quite ok to pass.
After you crossed all the small streams (took me an hour) you have to find the small track that goes left, (you need to exit the main tracks that goes right otherwise). After 10k along the river you get to the "main" bartang valley track. (you passed the river, so river on your left, mountain on the right)
sorry i had no GPS so i can't give you the dots. Don't hesitate if i can help, it would be sad to miss the bartang valley.
Based on comments i quite hesitated to take it, so here are my comments for those who hesitate:
About me (very important to weight what i say, often tricky on HUB because there are some super good drivers and some uneperienced, so what they say about being "easy" or "hard" is just totally different).
Im french 28yo, 80kg,1m96. good health, but not strong arms (to lift up the bike!), DRZ400S, no motorcycling experience prior to starting my trip, but i build up a lot in mongolia (sands, rocks, 3000k) during 1 month), very very light package: 1 top bag 50Liters, 10kg(?), cautious way of driving. tires: shinko 700.
i passed in October, so it was 0/5 degrees celcius during the day and moderately windy.
-it has been described in some posts as a super hero trailblazing path, I mean it has been in the lonely planet for years guys, come on don't exagerate
-when taken easy and slowly i found it challenging but ok to pass. The first 150k from karakul are the most challenging, lonely and daunting (high altitude, windy). The hairpins with many many rocks on the narrow road were where i felt it was a bit dangerous (as im not super experienced driver). If I had had a heavier bike (say DR650, or africa twin) with lots of luggage, i think my driving skills would have been too low and put me in danger (too heavy for my body build / skills).
- at 4000m altitude, you feel that weather could blow you away, really. It is super important to check weather i think. I mean if it gets windy, or snowy when you are on the cliff stretches with rocky hairpins, it is really dangerous. weather change quickly in the mountain.
- its cold and windy there (in October at least), you need proper gear, and frequent breaks, otherwise your driving gets lower. you need to be clear-minded for the technical stretches.
- i felt extreme lonelyness, and nature felt strong and daunting there, this is what i enjoyed most.
hope this can help
all the best, dont rush, take care, enjoy