Hi,
for those who are heading to the Pamirs, here's a rundown if the red tape involved:

Visas

- you can use the electronic visa (see previous posts), no problem at the border where they know about it. Police may be a bit unsettled that your visa is in your computer/phone only.. otherwise, a double-entry visa in Bishkek is quick and painless (and the same price).

GBAO permit

- same procedure as for the e-visa. Note that you don't need to register the permit anymore. Some people have reported that nobody's checked it, but you need it anyway for the Pamirs.

TIP

- you get 45 days coming in from Osh (Kyzyl-Art pass), so the same duration as your visa ! no questions asked. 10$ for a bike, 25$ for a car
- coming in from the Ferghana (Buston crossing), people have got only 15 days. But they were able to extend it in Khorog thanks to PECTA.
- the TIP is valid for one visit, so if you have a double-entry visa and plan to -re-enter Taj, you'll need to pay again

Migration card

- you get at the airport, or entering in Buston (reportedly). Not in Kyzyl-Art. Seems not to be needed nor asked.

Other

- In Kyzyl-Art, you have to pay for some Quarantine documents (no disinfection is actually carried). This paper isn't checked afterwards and has no price / you get no receipt, so you pay what you bargain for. Without bargaining, maybe 150 som and with haggling down to half of it (around 10$). Another guy asks 100 som for some random road tax, if he waked up from his drunken slumber; we ignored him but don't know if it's legal.
All people are very nice and friendly.

- Exiting from Taj to Kyrg in Kyzyl-Art, you pay a pollution tax of 1000 somoni (15 $). You avoid this when you cross from Kaz to Kyrg, because the customs have disappeared, but I think it's legit. Keep the import papers you get there until you exit the customs union (Kyrg-Kaz-Rus).

- You can buy a cheap permit for Zorkul lake in PECTA in Murghab, and it actually works ! Coming in from the other side (Murghab), some cyclists have reported been turned away by a police check before reaching Zorkul. But we haven't seen anybody except at the Khargush check-point.

Police checks are friendly in Tajikistan and we've never been asked for a "gift" or a shake down like in Kyrg.

What a change since 10 years ago, the first time I visited the Pamirs; there was virtually no tourists and fuel was hard to get by. Now there are several modern petrol stations in Khorog and TWO petrol "stations" in Murghab ! and a hotel ! and brand new banks ! and GSM (ok, 2G only) ! The Pamirs have seen a tremendous development in the last 4-5 years, so there is now no logistics problem in traveling in the Pamirs. And thanks to Chris and Patrick and Murat, you'll meet dozens of bikers in the high season.

Laurent
Overland Aventure

PS: oh, and the roads ? all were easily passable in July (OK, not so easy for the Bartang), so nothing in particular to report.

__________________
2- and 4-wheeled explorer and photographer
Overland Aventure

I'm in Murgab now. Thanks for that update, especially about the zork permit, I'll try this morning. Can you tell me anything about what you ran into in bartang this summer and zorkul

Thanks Kp

Sure. But conditions depend heavily on the level of water in the Bartang. When we were there, there were just two stretches of maybe 50m where the road is under the river. But it's only 20 or 30cm deep, no big deal. There's a big detour to avoid the worse parts.
In the next valley after you leave the Bartang (going upstream), there are two rivers to cross which have strong currents. If you cross at the right place it's not so bad, but you really need to look carefully for the right way (and wade on foot to find out where the big rocks are).

For Zorkul, there is no such problem. Unless it's been raining then it's pretty swampy. But in dry conditions you just follow the road. There is a dry lake between the M41 and Jarty Gumbez (hunting camp), which may not be that dry after rains, and problematic to cross. If it's dry, it's a breeze.

Laurent

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2- and 4-wheeled explorer and photographer
Overland Aventure

we got snowed in in Jarty Gumbez. We did make an attempt to Zorkul the second day but the road was so muddy to be impractical and we turned around after 2 km's. The third day the road from there to Zorkul was reportedly closed due to snow. The snow in Jarty did not last until early afternoon. After 2 nights in Jarty we headed North. After 10 km's that road was dry, no sign of snow or rain.

BTW: there are no ATM's in Murgab, make sure you bring dollars or Euro's.

Yeah, I guess the conditions depend heavily on the weather. When was that ?
How was the night in Jarty, I heard the owner is quite the character... and the hot shower looked good.

__________________
2- and 4-wheeled explorer and photographer
Overland Aventure