Get yourself an external EX420 flash gun and a remote release as well as a tripod.
16CH 100M Radio Wireless Remote For Canon RS-60E3 AS01 on eBay (end time 03-Sep-10 03:54:34 BST)
(not condoning them or supporting them as a seller -just picked it off flebay)
Generally speaking you will be using a wider angle lens, it would be worth getting a prime for this task, unless you have an expensive zoom, I would still use something like a 20mm prime.
Manual mode:
1> Focus on where the bike will be and use the depth of field preview button to see if the background will be in focus - Change to manual focus on the lens
(remember to change back)
2>Adjust the aperture until the background is in focus, without changing the focus position by holding down the depth of field preview button.
try to keep the smallest figure possible, ie open aperture.
3>Adjust the shutter speed until the [Evaluative] metering tells you the ground in the background is exposed correctly.
I am presuming that it will be early morning or later afternoon so you will be looking at a slower shutter speed, about 1/15th 1/30th or 1/60th.
Anything above 1/200th - increase the aperture
Adjust ISO accordingly, lowest number suitable.
The Flash will help to control the foreground exposure of you and the bike itself, add some more punch and fill in the shadows if taken at midday.
The other reason for the flash is to freeze movement above and beyond the shutterspeed. For this purpose I suggest that you use 2nd curtain.
You could duct tape the remote to the clutch lever for that precise moment.
(Set up on a tripod and ride past as slowly as you can and still get the wheelie, whilst CF12 is useful, it becomes too much of a faff with remote release unless you are running back and forth to and from the camera each shot.)
Try to avoid or cover up with mud any reflective markings.
Thats pretty much it.
Apart from the obligatory tourist camera theft scenario as you ride off having set up the camera to go to your run up!