You did well to get out of town ASAP from Hall's Creek. I flew in there with my wife in a Yak52 (Russian warbird), and as I shut down the engine, the first sound that I heard was the discordant shrieking of drunks brawling in the bushes. Took me right back! That was the first sound that I heard the first time, thirty years before.
Since then, my wife and I have toured through, me on my Sportster, her on her Yamaha 650, stopped for fuel....
Same sound in the bushes as the last two times!

Rob

Too funny Rob!! Long way to go for a repeat performance lol.

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The loud crack of thunder woke me suddenly at 1.30am as torrential rain pelted my new tent being tested for the first time in the rain. It leaked. Not through the material, but there is a technique to setting it up which I apparently didn’t quite master.


I dragged my riding pants out of the new pool of water and realised my trusty (well we’ll see) new MacBook Air was also in the tent with me. Fortunately it was in its plastic waterproof bag, unfortunately I had left open so I frantically wiped drops from the outer surface. Hmmm, we’ll see.

In the hot light of day the only real casualty was my box of waterproof matches…


Lake Argyle was as beautiful in the morning as the previous day. I wasn't dreaming. I wanted to stay a week but had to be in Darwin for a bike service in two days.

After riding the stunning 35kms to the highway, I noticed in passing that Darwin was 800kms away so I’d be sleeping in transit again tonight. Four hundred kilometres doesn’t seem such a big day, but I was still fighting jetlag from Europe, it was now 40 degrees with humidity rising and there were all the photos I wanted to take!

Shortly after entering the highway I was in the Northern Territory.


I began riding at 10.30am and within half an hour I was here and had to move my clocks forward one and a half hours. Now it was 1.30pm so I stopped as soon as I could for lunch so I wouldn’t get to hungry. I usually like to have lunch earlier than that.

The day became long and hot. I played imaginary stories with the clouds, then the rocks, then the termite mounds; seeing characters in the shapes. In my mind I stopped and took a hundred photos but in reality it was about five.




I felt particularly affected by the heat today, my lower back started to hurt and my bum was numb, so I pulled over at the edge of the Mitchell National Park, near the Victoria River. It was 5pm.

I decided to camp here as it was idyllic.


The humidity was climbing and perspiration was pouring from pores I didn’t know I had. The flies are particularly friendly here and they continually dive-bombed my eyes and ears just so I didn’t forget to say hello. I looked like an Arab Sheik after I had protected myself from them.

I set the tent, cooked a small meal, packed up the bike and jumped onto the tent and lay on my air mattress. The tent was still and hot, just like the outside air, and the remaining water in my body drained from my pores as I fell into a slumber.

When I woke I was much drier and I checked the time to see how long before the sun came up. It was 11pm. Bugger. This was not my best nights sleep.

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Consuming a quick breakfast, the rest of my water and at least four flies,


I wheeled out of the little camp-spot, justifiably refusing to pay my camp fees.


Despite the best intentions, the tanks were empty.



This was one of those ‘must do’ days where I had to get to Darwin in time to find a place to stay and be ready to drop Ziggy off in the morning. For her 40,000th birthday I’m giving her all new fluids, adjusting the valves and whatever her big BMW heart desires, err…requires.

Katherine was still 170kms away, and Darwin 300kms further north. The roads were again empty as they had been for most of the trip apart from the odd road-train and blue commodore. Storms again threatened and some blustery winds tried to push us around, but Ziggy had none of it and we arrived in Katherine and topped up the fuel.

Due to the rain associated with the recent cyclone and an early start to the wet season, the landscape became greener and more lush; the ‘water over road’ signs marked newly dried tarmac; the numerous floodways had pools at the side of the road inching back from the domain of tyres; all an indication of how recently the rain fell.

But for me and Ziggy it was dry skies and dry tarmac all the way. I came across my first real traffic for the trip as Darwin neared, but being a Sunday I think I was spared the worst of it.

After some spiritual consultation with My Maps, Google Maps, Booking.com, Hotels.com and Google search, I settled on a van park just four kilometres from tomorrow’s rendezvous with Ziggy’s maker…or at least their rep.

I unloaded the gear, and tucked Ziggy into her cover, while I had a well earned dip in the pool, dinner from my vast stores and some calls to worried relatives to advise that I’m still alive and they are still in the will.

A bit light on with the piccies for this leg. The next two full days I spent in Darwin getting Ziggy serviced and catching up with some old friends.

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Check out time was at 10am and that’s exactly what time I left; not the early start I wanted but I was heading for Mataranka Springs, a beautiful oasis south of Katherine. It’s my mum’s favourite place.

I decided to drop by and show the guys at Cyclone Motors ( where Ziggy was serviced) the setup of my gear as they only saw her naked. They were a bit busy so I headed back to the highway to go south. It’s pretty straightforward, a single turn-off to the right to Palmerston, and veer to the left to follow the Stuart Highway to Katherine. I veered right. Bugger.

After finding my way back to the highway and only able to turn left to go north again, I rode 15kms towards Darwin before I could turn again and head south. This time I veered left. I wonder if this will be the flavour of the day?

Never ask that question.

Along the highway a bit there was a turnoff to Kakadu that I took, not because I wanted to visit Kakadu again as I had been there several times, but the world famous Humpty Doo pub is a classic place and always has a contingency of bikers there. I stopped in for a large salad and an orange juice. Ziggy chatted with a tough looking Harley over in the shade (the Harley turned up after this photo).


Back to the highway we were on our way once again. By this time it was about midday and I felt like I was just getting going for the day. My need to get some miles under my belt stopped me from getting photos but there was not a lot to photograph in a wild landscape like this, once again it is stunning country that is easy to take in and experience but difficult to photograph.

I turned off along the Daly Tourist Drive that went a little more to the west, to break up the relative monotony of the highway. It was a bit rough in places but a traffic-less road with lots of bends and undulations was a joy to ride, particularly as I was still recovering from 12,000kms of straight road in WA.


All was going well today, Ziggy was purring after her service and seemed to be tighter with more power, pulling our load with more ease than before. The road was dry and it was apparent that it had been wet, and in many places flooded, as there were still some witches hats around the place.


Despite there being threatening storm clouds along the way I only had literally ten seconds of rain, making this a very dry trip so far.


The wet season has started early and there is almost no-one else on the road because they had all heeded the advice not to travel in the north at this time of year.

Things were going well but it was getting to around 3.30pm and I hadn’t reached Katherine yet so I decided to duck into Nitimiluk National Park and camp.


There was no-one around at the campground so I had the place to myself. Miles from anyone in this remote area, I backed Ziggy into my selected campsite, put my right foot down on the loose gravel and it continued sliding. Ziggy over-balanced and hit the dirt for the first time this trip! Bugger.


I had a bit of a giggle at the irony of it and began to put my lifting technique into practice. Maybe if I thought about it I would have unloaded some of the weight, but instead I grunted and strained my back muscles in the same place I had several weeks ago in Europe and that had put me in bed for three days. OUCCCHHH!!

Now in agony, I knew I couldn’t lift the bike by myself and thought it was a good time to use my super little block and tackle – the one I had spruked about and never practiced using! Slowly I unloaded gear and the high side pannier, then hooked up the block and tackle. So far so good but I badly needed painkillers and to rest.


Tension on and I backed up with the 5:1 ratio and succeeded in sliding the back wheel towards me half a metre. A few adjustments and away we went again, pulling, the bike moved, started to lift…CRACK!!!

The climbing rope with two and a half tonne breaking strain – broke. I took two or three steps backwards with the momentum and for a slight moment thought I could recover, before landing on my back and winding myself. To laugh or cry…no, best to breath first. GASP!

I lay there for a good minute, not knowing if I could or even wanted to get up. Slowly I manipulated my battered body to a sitting position but that was bad for my original back problem so I managed to get on all fours with the finesse of a turtle trying to right itself and I started resembling a biped once again.

I walked to the still resting Ziggy and looked at the tangle of lightweight cable and climbing rope, not impressed with the first and final performance of the latter! So at this stage it was still around 38C, I was in pain with my back and I noticed a grazed shin, it was less than an hour to sunset, I still need to pitch the tent, and discovered that after selecting a nice spot at the back of the camping area only the toilet block at the front of the camping area was open due to the wet season.

My eyes were drawn to the BMW tie-down strap I use to secure the waterproof bag, and realized I could loop it around two points and do the job of the climbing rope. Good thing I wasn’t climbing, I thought! I hooked up the strap and secured the end into the ratchet and attached the carabiner.

I clasped my hands around the light wooden dowel handle and started walking backwards. Like magic, Ziggy lifted slowly to her wheels and came to rest on the sidestand that I had fortunately remembered to put down. Ziggy was back. The lightweight, ultra-compact block and tackle has earned its place well and truly in my tool kit.




Putting up the tent with a sodden t-shirt, flies in my eyes and ears and the ever-present back spasm, seemed like a minor event in comparison. Air mattress inflated, I assembled my chair to collapse in sweaty agony before contemplating making a meal. Having a chair with a back is bliss – another well earned piece of kit.

With the stove operation now routine, I prepared a good meal and eventually climbed into my tent. I lay there thinking how important it has been to reduce the weight of my gear and have simple to remove luggage. Carrying this extra weight and hard panniers has shown me that going ultralight with gear is how I want to travel. Once I get to Brisbane I will be removing those panniers for the last time.

The overnight rain was nice, now that I’ve learnt to set up my tent correctly. I stayed dry.

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Repacking the panniers and folding camping gear was slow going this morning. I had gone for a long walk to see the falls and cliffs of this part of the park, but the focus had been on stretching and freeing up the painful area in my back. The river was beautiful,


and the crocodile trap was a reminder not to swim


The front toilet block also had a shower with hot water so I aimed the nozzle at the offending part of my back, which along with the movement, helped. They were the most interesting toilets for the trip so far.



Another 10am start, I rode my way back to the highway and the 60kms to Katherine. I stopped for a nice cooked breakfast and large mug of coffee and was feeling human again.

Another 100 metres down the road was the shopping complex where I bought some breakfast things, fresh fruit and slipped into the pharmacy for some much needed pain-killers and anti-inflammatories. It was only another 100kms to Mataranka Springs where I pulled in with the mercury approaching 40C.

The springs were as I remember them. At around 33C, the springs form part of the Roper River in the Elsey Conservation Reserve. The surrounds have a walking path and stone walls, almost resembling a swimming pool. Tall palms full of thousands of red flying foxes surround the area with their calls and quarrels echoing through the dense canopy.



I relaxed in the water for a good hour and a half, reminding me why this is an oasis and a must to visit. The homestead with overpriced campsites - $24 unpowered – is at the entrance to the park.

I decided to use the hammock tonight as there were two solid straight trees and a shady spot to park Ziggy. I felt it may rain as it has for most nights since I’ve been in the Territory so I set up the parachute tarp – still unsure if it has earned it’s place in the kit yet.


I completed the camp set up, covered Ziggy and walked to the bar area for a refreshing lemon, lime and bitters. The heavens opened up and continued pouring for three hours, amongst some spectacular thunder and lightning.


I waited for the rain to stop before picking my way through the muddy ground to the hammock. My bed was dry. Bonus!

Attached Thumbnails

 

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G'day Paul,
Enjoying reading about your travels and adventures mate. Your photo's are wetting my appetite to travel the top end. Safe travels and keep the updates coming!

Cheers

Barry

I'd love to know where to get a little winch like that, even given its shortcomings. I cannot lift my bike either, due to "great age and decrepitude" and the results of trying to fly an aeroplane through a tree years ago. (Hint: don't try this at home..)

Dave Barr, the epic legless RTW biker, used an electric winch mounted on his crash bars to complete his "Southern Cross Tour", a few years ago, but I'd rather not have the weight or expense.

Rob

The angle of the rope where the two ends meet, should never be more than 90 degrees, that gives you an increase in load of 1.4 times.
With the angle getting close to 180 degrees the load is increased enormously.

__________________
Poul
May you enjoy peace and good health !

I never knew the theory but realised something was amiss when I ended up on my a after the rope snapped. Thanks for the heads up!

PN

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