Speaking of which, we have an important decision to make: Where are we going to go now? Although we are in Marseille to visit Y&H, I've routed us to this port town at the very south of France because it's a hub for all the ferries heading out of Europe.

I want us to go to Tunisia! It's just directly south, across the Mediterranean Sea. Merely a brief ferry ride.

Normally, Neda and I are pretty much in sync about destinations. We've had virtually no disagreements about our future directions. Until now.

"I've read that there's been some terrorist activity lately in Tunisia. It might not be safe. We're both travel fatigued, and you remember how badly we did with all the hustlers in Morocco. Why on earth do you want to go Tunisia?" She asks me pointedly.

"Um, Star Wars was filmed there." My reasoning seemed a lot more sound when it was only in my head... "Tunisia is Tatooine!" I think by now everyone knows that I choose our travel destinations based on TV shows and movies that I watched as a kid...

"I don't know what a Tatooine is. Are you sure it's really worth it?"

"Yes?"

And so began negotiations.

It is true that I am travel fatigued. It is true that there was a mass shooting on a tourist resort last summer. It is true that the UK government has banned all non-business travel to Tunisia (but we're in France!). It is true that I don't deal well with hustlers. All these things are true.

But... Star Wars!!!

Since Yaw is in town and he does a lot of business in Africa, we consult him on Tunisia. Unfortunately, he doesn't have much experience with that country.

"So where do *you* want to go now?" I ask.

"We've been on the road without a break for 8 months now. It's the longest stretch of travel we've undertaken since we started and frankly, I'm done. I want to go back to Thailand. We have motorcycles there. We know people there. I have activities to do there. It's warm there. I want to go back to Chiang Mai."

oh.

She was pretty adamant about this. And she made a more compelling argument than "Star Wars".

So... ferry to Tunisia or ride straight to Croatia to drop off the BMWs and fly to Thailand for the winter. Those were our options.


The next morning: preparing to leave Marseille

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Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/371.html



We depart from the ferry docks in Marseille early in the morning. It's going to be a long day on the waters as we head south.


On board the ferry, lashing the bikes to the railing in case of inclement weather


Over 11 boring hours later, we arrive at our first southern destination: Corsica at night.

We are dropped off at the north-east peninsula of the French island of Corsica. It's not that late in the evening, but it's already dark and we don't have a place to sleep. Before we docked, I had found a campsite just a couple of kms away from the ferry port. The night air is chilly on the short ride over. When we got there, the reception was closed, so we set up our tent at an empty site.

The sites are pretty much all empty, save for a couple of RVs. Tourist season is long over, and there are no other tents on the campgrounds. We are the crazy ones, sleeping outside this late in the season. At least it doesn't rain, so we just shivered through the night, instead of shivering and swimming...

Still not sure if Neda's water-proofing spray job on the tent is going to hold. Not sure I want to test it out either...

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Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com

Sunshine greets us in the morning

So does the ranger of the campsite. He pulls up to our tent in an electric golf cart while Neda is preparing breakfast. I exchange a few pleasantries with him en français and pay the camping fee and he drives away satisfied.

The campsite is right on the shores of the peninsula, so after breakfast, we take a quick stroll around the area before we pack up the tent.


The beach beside the campsite is deserted. Only a few die-hard sun-seekers, no doubt escapees from colder climates like us


From the beach, we are able to see the Citadel in the town of Bastia in the distance

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Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com

For the past couple of weeks, we've done a lot of commuting and hanging out with friends. But now, the weather is so nice in Corsica...


We just want to ride!

Our route for the day is south. There are two main roads running down the length of the island, one through the middle and one on the east coast. We take neither, instead opting for the more smaller, less-traveled, but twistier mountain roads on the west side of Corsica. But first, to get there we must skirt the northern edge of the island.


We get amazing views of the coast as the road heads up into the northern mountain range


The scenery is so beautiful, we just have to stop to take some pictures

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Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com

The road re-joins the coast and we stop at a pretty town called L'Île-Rousse


Taking a walk on the deserted boardwalk. The sandy beaches in the distance, so popular during high season, are completely empty


We head into the centre of town to grab some lunch

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Lots of nice little bistros and cafes line the main square


The hills of northern Corsica are beckoning to us: forget about the towns, come back to the road!


One last picture before we head back to the bikes

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Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com

We're basically following one road, the D81, as it winds across pretty coastal towns and up through the mountains. It's funny that the road we're on is listed as one the Most Dangerous Roads in Europe. In fact, most of the fun, twisty mountain roads that we've ridden on are on that list. If you ever want to find a great motorcycle road, just Google "Most Dangerous Roads" in whatever area you're interested in.


Check it out: Twisties Heaven!


Ooooh, a switchback! Soooo dangerous!!!

We're now headed south through the Monte Cinto mountain range. The turns get tighter and twistier and we are loving it.


D81 snakes through the mountains and the vegetation threatens to close in on us

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Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com

As we head further south, we notice that the rocks have changed in colour, from greyish-white to a more brownish-reddish hue


At times, D81 moves from the mountains to the shoreline and we're treated to more magnificent coastal views from high atop


But we still have to keep our eyes on the road, because it's twisty! Yay!

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Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com

Man, look at the mountains all around us. Beautiful!


We *have* to stop for another scenic break


The rocks here have turned a more orangey-reddish hue!

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Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com

Back on the yellow, er red brick road

What a great day of riding! With gorgeous views and amazing, curvy roads.

We checked into a really nice hotel in Porticcio, which is half-way down the west coast of Corsica. The island is small, only 200 kms from top to bottom, but we spent the entire day just doing half that distance and had a great time enjoying the ride.


Our place in Porticcio! And cheap too, because it's low season

Being here at this time reminds me of riding through the Algarve in Southern Portugal during their low season a couple of years ago. We're able to stay in some really nice hotels for around $40/night. Good deal.

We're only booked here for one night. The next morning, I asked Neda if she was ready to hit the road. She shook head. Yeah, neither was I. I walked downstairs to reception and paid for another night in our resort-hotel.

So funny! As soon as we find someplace nice and warm, all forward motion ceases and we're at a standstill again.


Are we ever going to leave Corsica? Not sure...

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Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com

Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/372.html



The day starts off all sunny and lazy. I turn to Neda in bed and ask, "Are you ready to hit the road today?"

"No, not really", came the sheepish reply.

"Okay, I'll go book us another night". I pull on some pants and get ready to go downstairs to reception.

"Wait, wait. We should go. We can't stay here forever."

Yep. We have an endpoint in sight and this isn't it. We know we want to end up in Thailand for the winter. Neda wants to go right now, but I'm feeling like there's still a bit more warm weather left in this part of the world, and I'm trying to squeeze every little bit out of it before we leave.

Despite the fact that these days we're dragging our feet every morning to climb back onto the motorcycles...

Soooo tired.


Bikes are packed once again and we're ready to continue... with maybe a little bit of reluctance


We stop to gas up before leaving Porticcio. This guy wanted a fill-up as well...

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The road leads us away from the coast and into the mountains of Corse-Du-Sud (Southern Department of Corsica)

The rocks here aren't as orangey-red as yesterday, but the road is still entertaining enough as it winds through the mountains. As we round one of the corners, we're greeted with a cloud of smoke. Is there some kind of forest fire up ahead? We come up fast behind this car, billowing smoke behind it. The driver seems oblivious to the thick haze he's leaving in his wake. I think his engine's on fire!

I pull up beside the car and start honking my horn, pointing to the front of his car. He doesn't know what I'm gesticulating at. I then point at the smoke screen behind us and he glances at his rear view mirror (probably for the very first time) and then he gets it.

We pull over, but he doesn't seem to know what to do.


I ask him to pop the hood. No fire, so obviously a coolant leak somewhere. Between the two of us, we have a little bit of water to fill the reservoir

He's lost a lot of coolant, so I try to explain in my broken French that he needs to top it up as soon as possible. "Oui! Oui!" I'm still not sure he understood as we waved goodbye to him at the side of the road, waiting for his engine to cool down.


There's a break in the mountains where we can see the coast below, so we stop for a scenic peek. Other motorists stop for peek at our bikes.

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Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com

Ah, the orange rocks are back again


More twisty roads in Southern Corsica

It only takes us a couple more hours to arrive at the southern tip of the island. We enter the town of Bonifacio and are greeted by the tall walls of its citadel, made out of that same rock that we've ridden through in the last couple of days.


Parking the bikes to do some exploring. The palm trees are so very Mediterranean!

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Old Medieval buildings line the shores of the harbour, and you can see the citadel overlooking the waters


After walking around the marina, we hopped back onto the bikes and rode right up into the citadel

Free motorcycle parking inside the citadel! I love Europe! Riding all over town beats hiking all over town...


We walk around the top of the walls, looking down into the town and the waters of the Mediterranean Sea.

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Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com

Sailboats floating around the Bay of Bonifacio


Walking past the citadel church towards one of the old fort towers on the wall


Monument of the Foreign Legion - This is a monument to the French soldiers who died fighting the war in Algeria in 1870

The terra cotta roofs of the surrounding buildings are another reminder that we're in the Mediterranean. Neda says it reminds her of the buildings along the Dalmatian coast in Croatia. We looked for an amphitheater all over town, but none to be found.

No matter, it wouldn't have been as nice as the one in Pula, anyway...

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Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com