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**Tiffany** · #1 25 Aug 2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by teote

I haven't read such an informative and joyful trip report before. Make me feel traveling over there .Thanks. ..

Hi Teote
many thanks for the comments and appreciation, it's nice to get good feedback and I'm pleased you're enjoying the stories - I do get a lot of joy out of travelling and it's good to know that is comes across on here.

Cheers
Tiffany

**Tiffany** · #2 25 Aug 2014

A rest day and then I was ready to hit the road once more, the mountains were calling to me and so I headed up Khardung La, the highest road in this part of the Himalayas.

An easy enough road to follow without the drama of river crossings etc, and little in the way of other traffic except the occasional dog

But there was a dodgy moment when I found out at the checkpoint that I didn't have the correct permit. I smiled nicely and the checkpoint officer said if I left my passport with him as insurance then I could go IF...I took one of his soldiers who needed a lift up - no problem I said and so onto the Enfield's pillion jumped a sapper.

We didn't get far before we had to wait for some roadworks to clear

I was particularly taken with the bulldozer driver who resembled an IRA hitman from the 80's

Soon after this the soldier jumped ship but his place was taken by a civilian hitch-hiker. I often give lifts to hitch-hikers on my travels and I have to say it is a lot easier in India where everyone seems to be around my height or less, unlike Scandinavia where one of my hitch-hikers was 6'8" (AND he was carrying 7 foot fishing rod). We were doing well, the Enfield's engine chugging away as we headed up the mountain road.
I paused for a photo opportunity

Hitch-hiker proudly posing with the bike and then I gave him my camera to take a picture
at which point...

Damn - another puncture.

**Tiffany** · #3 25 Aug 2014

At 4000m with a flat tyre, heading up to Khardung La Pass - I explained the situation to my unlucky hitch-hiker, turned the bike around and limped slowly and carefully back down the mountain, I was only 3 kms from the top.

Although I had the tools etc that I needed to remove the rear wheel, which on an Enfield is pretty easy, I wasn't carrying tyre levers; so I stopped and asked the soldiers at a checkpoint for help.

They were delighted to pitch in once they realised what the issue was. Whilst I was served ginger tea, they clustered round and did the work - under my watchful gaze.

I couldn't thank them enough and promised to say hello next time I was back here. I'd used my spare tube and as I was only carrying one with me- this was just supposed to be a quick day trip, I reluctantly decided that with my current track record with punctures I'd better abandon my attempt to reach Khardung La. I retrieved my passport from the checkpoint guy and promised that I'd be back soon, then enjoyed a fast ride on the good tarmac stretches down the mountain accompanying some Scottish guys on their Enfields - racing?? Moi

I was very disappointed but consoled myself with the knowledge that I'd be back in a couple of weeks with my group and we would be heading over the pass then.

Back in Leh, it was time to take serious action on the puncture situation, which is how I found myself in this unusual position

riding pillion on my own bike through the streets of Leh as a local rode my bike to the best tyre guy in town. This guy -

We also had to sort out a couple of other issues and ended up in this workshop

Yes - this IS a professional's workspace, I particularly enjoyed the Hindu shrine in the corner

and the meticulously arranged tools

**Tiffany** · #4 25 Aug 2014

View from the handlebars

Ms Coates on the road with a serious look on her face as she has less than four days to get to Delhi from Leh

It was time to head south again to meet my group in Delhi, as I was re-tracing my route up, I was feeling pretty confident, especially as I was by now acclimatised a lot more to the altitude (4-5000m). But I should have known, things do not always go smoothly.

To begin with: the yak with attitude in the road

He stopped and gave me the evil eye a few times before moving off

he had all his mates with him and I wondered if an Enfield could outrun a herd of stampeding yak.

There seemed to be less snow than on the way up which was a good sign

Yep, had I mentioned the stunning views and scenery around every corner??

Even the Buddhist monks were impressed by their surroundings

At times I had company on the road, I was impressed by the balancing skills of this guy as he chugged along.

Not the most crisp and sharp of photos, but to be fair I was also riding along on the gravel as I snapped this quick picture.

A brief stop at Pang for momos with Mama Momo and the choughs - a symbol of Cornwall (my home nation) and incredible to see them in the Himalayas

One of my favourite spots - I'd like to try and ride my bike through the arch

But that's just a narrow gravel footpath running up to it - and feeling a bit sensible and grown up, I decided to wait until I had someone with me to attempt it...just in case things went wrong

**Tiffany** · #5 25 Aug 2014