I’m back from a 11.185 kms round trip from Paris to Dakar and back with a little detour to Atar in Mauritania

The trip was 6 weeks long from April 22 to June 03 with stops to family in France.
I will write here all the details I think could be of interest for people planning this kind of trip, but I will skip the French part.

I made this trip solo on a Honda CRF 1000 DCT of 2017 with 37.000 kms at the start with Continental TKC70 tires, side cases and camping gear.
I haven’t had any technical problem except a leaking fuel canister and a broken zip on the tank bag, not even a puncture…

I really enjoyed this trip and received a great welcome from people in Morocco, Mauritania and Senegal, always kind, curious and helpful.
Only had (little) problems with a very few cops in Mauritania as I will write.

I took the ferry from Barcelona to Tanger med and the same on the way back from GNV

April 25: Barcelona
Camping Barcelona (40km from Barcelona ferry on the coast) 24€
A little bit noisy, the tent zone is small and if you arrive end of day get prepared to queue.
Had the worst pizza of my life at the restaurant.

April 26: Ferry Barcelona/Tanger
The ferry was supposed to leave at 12h.
The office to make the check-in opens at 9h! So no need to come 4h before as written on your e-ticket. You could even be there just two hours before like a lot did.
There is a boarding parking just before the offices, if you're with a car or truck you have to park before go make the check-in, with a bike you can register first and park after.
You need to have a printed covid pass or pcr test.
The ferry left at 1pm.
There are moroccan customs officers in the Grand Salon on deck 6, where you have to pass for your passport and vehicle there is a little form to fill.
You don't need to queue for one hour to do that when the ferry leave, like I did, the guys will be in the boat all the trip, just wait for the good time.
As I didn’t booked a cabin, I slept in the Grand Salon with sleeping bag, a lot of people did, absolutely no problem with leaving sleeping gear and clothes when you go for lunch or take a walk, friendly atmosphere.



April 27 : Tanger - Assilah
The ferry arrived at the port at 5:45pm local time, I get out at 6:15.
I drove to Asilah where I made a reservation at hotel Sahara but was closed when I arrived so I ended at residence Hotel Ibn Rochd, an large apartment for 250mad, it’s more that I wanted but I could hang my tent for drying ! Bike parked behind the hotel door with cameras and night guard.
Only one restaurant serving on the evening because of Ramadan, didn’t think it could be a problem, it’s going to be...
I bought a simcard of Maroc Telecom at the kiosk and get 20mad of internet for 7 days

April 28 : Assilah - Imintanoute
By the highway, boring but I already know the coast road.
Hotel Al Amane (125mad) very basic hotel in a non-touristic little city, very old bathroom.
Absolutely no restaurant serving…

April 29: Imintanoute - Sidi Ifni
I took a very nice trail until Argana to make a change from highway
Arrived in Sidi Ifni, city seems deserted, Ramadan and covid…
Hotel Bellevue, almost the only host, 200 mad room with sea view
Only one restaurant serving on evening, nothing for lunch.
I decide to stay here one more day until the end of Ramadan.









May 02: Sidi Ifni - Laayoune
End of Ramadan and the first café at a terrace at El Ouatia with people smiling again!
The beginning of Western Sahara and the Great South, check points and a lot of wind.
I started the “fiche” delivery, I gave about 50 or 60 copies of it on the whole trip!
Laayoune is modern and dynamic city and everybody is out for Aïd
Hotel Istanbul: 200 mad with bathroom, clean and modern but small room and no charm, 15 mad to the guard for the bike.














May 03: Laayoune - Dakhla
Hard day with a lot of wind, especially before Dakhla, but the landscapes are really amazing, immense..
Hotel Dakar, when I saw it I couldn’t choose another one, 150 mad with bathroom, quite good and friendly staff, bike parked behind door, in the middle of the market, not easy to find the way with the bike.
Still difficult to find a restaurant, it takes a few days after Ramadan to come back to normal, a lot of places closed.













May 04: Dakhla - Bir Gandouz
The tour of the Dakhla bay is really beautiful and even if it’s only rocks and sand the landscape is always changing, I love it.
Starts to find a lot of sand on the road, watch out at the top of hills it can be tricky and sometimes vehicles coming the other way are driving left to avoid it.
Hotel Barbas, amazing place with a huge patio where you can park your bike, 200 mad with bathroom 100 without, you can eat there, perfect place to prepare border passing. Met with two bikers going back up, I changed their Mauritanian money for euros as you can’t change it otherwise.
Be careful: no UL fuel in El Argoub station when I was there.









May 05: Bir Gandouz – Nouadhibou with border passing
The border is 50min from the hotel, I was almost the only one this morning, the Moroccan side is slow but straight, you get your passport stamped at the first building then you go forward and give passport and vehicle papers to another one, the dog sniffs your bike, just make a stop at the last gate where you give papers for the last time.
Then you arrived on the no-man’s land, a track with rocks and sand but quite short, I didn’t take the main track that seems deep sanded but the right one following a truck, no problem.
When you arrived on Mauritanian side you realize it’s another world, the buildings are run down and there are some people hanging there for nothing.
A guy called Cheikh came to me to offer his services , he’s well known for helping people passing the border, I told him I don’t really need help but he said it’s a very hard time for them and could make a good price to speed up the procedure. So I did it with him, he’s very kind and efficient, the normal price is 10€.
You pay 55€ in cash for visa, 10€ for Passavant (authorization for vehicle), 15€ for insurance
I’m sure insurance is useless in case of accident but it’s better to have the paper for police controls!
Everything is slow and confused but without problem.
It takes 2h for the whole thing and I was solo with a bike and there was almost nobody else! Be prepared to spend some time here.
Entering Mauritania and Nouadhibou…everything is run down and messy, the poverty of the country is obvious and Nouadhibou is supposed to be the economic capital of Mauritania!
Hundreds of antic Mercedes, steaming trucks, donkeys… There’s no rule for driving but it’s not aggressive, just get prepared to anything anytime. 40 years of motorcycle driving in Paris is a good practice so I don’t panic.
Out of the main road is mainly sand so it’s surprising at the beginning, I find my “hotel” in a very popular part of town, Auberge Sahara, I have a doubt about it at first glance but a nice place with very spartan room and shared bathroom: 250mru (6,3€)
Walking in town to find an ATM working and buying a simcard, everything is confused and lot of things don’t work but people are really helpful.
Everybody’s counting in old currency which is 10x what is written on notes, saying 1000 Ouguyia for 100 real MRU (except maybe in touristic places) When you buy water bottle, he’ll say 200, you give 20. You’ll get used to it.
Fortunately the very friendly lady at the auberge prepared a meal with camel for dinner, it’s not easy to find restaurants in Mauritania.



May 06: NDB - Nouakchott
Just when I left NDB, the famous iron ore Train arrived, incredibly long...
The temperature is rising fast to 40°c with the wind coming from the desert , I find it hot but I don’t know yet what is real heat!
The landscapes are still constantly changing, I really enjoy it.
The only place to take gas between NDB and NOC (Nouakchott) is Chami, several stations there with groceries. Watch out when you leave the station, there can be a lot of sand!
There are a lot of checkpoints in Mauritania, from Gendarmerie, Customs and GGSR (take care to this ones) entering Nouakchott a guy from GGSR (in grey camo) told me “I have to buy some tea” in French, I didn’t understand why but after a few times I realized he wants me to give him money to buy some tea, I smiled and just said I won’t and he let me go…
Nouakchott is totally different from NDB, a recent city with large avenues and modern buildings but the same antic vehicles and crazy way of driving.
Auberge Samira : 800 mru room with shared bathroom, it’s ok but not really maintained (covid was hard for them)
Be carefull! A guy who hang around in the auberge and seems friend with them try to scam hosts with border passage to Senegal! He tried to convince me that the Diama border was closed and that I’ll have to pass at Rosso and that without his “help” I would get stuck there, he could send paper to ministry, blablabla… bullshit! Of course the day after I pass the border at Diama by my own very easily and without paying anything. I heard him proposing his services to German people with 4x4 for 250$ per car! So I’ll ban this place.
Hard to find restaurants except pizzas and snacks… There are groceries and supermarkets around.

May 08: Nouakchott - Saint-Louis with border crossing
Loved the road from NOC to Keur Macene, changing very quickly to desert to more green and red earthed , even people and housing is changing fastly.
In Keur macene starts the 40kms tracks to Diama through the Diawling Park, very wet and green with warthogs, cows, birds… There are some tricky parts with “tôle ondulée” and sand . Watch out for animals on the track!
I arrived at Park Guard that asked me to pay for it and even if I read that you don’t have to, it’s not easy when you’re alone and there’s this guy plus a guy from gendarmerie, so after 10 minutes I paid 200 mru (5€)
10 kms later I reached the border, almost nobody else, nobody came to hassle.
Mauritanian side: got my passport and Passavant stamped for free, just had to pay the communal tax: 100mru.
Senegalese side: 10€ for Passavant for 5 days
Then you have to pay for the bridge, its’ 4000 Cfa or 10€ (no coins) or 250 mru, it’s clear you get a paper with price.
Then a little bit more of sand track to reach the road to Saint-Louis, everything changes from Mauritania, more people, more colours , better roads…
The city of Saint-Louis is on an island and you have to pass the Faidherbe bridge to reach it, it’s an old Eiffel type bridge, the crossing is beautiful. Saint-Louis is a quiet and pleasant ancient colonial city, not a lot of traffic, you’ll find restaurants and bars.
Went to Auberge Chez Titi: 1000 cfa shared bathroom with breakfast, bike inside the patio.
I bought a simcard with internet access from Orange and motorbike insurance at Axa for 12.000 cfa
There are more shops on the mainland, there’s a Auchan supermarket with french products, you can even walk there through the market.

























May 10: Saint-Louis – Dakar
I didn’t take the main road to Dakar but a small road passing by Leona and Mboro, it’s a very nice and quiet road until Mboro but after it’s getting very busy closer to Dakar so catch the main road to Tivouane.
Arriving in Dakar after Saint-louis is a shock, it’s a huge city with a bottleneck at the entry so it’s really a fight, and adding to cars and trucks of any age there are little motorcycles and scooters. But once again it's not aggressive, people can stop, turn or do anything anytime anywhere… Sometimes I couldn’t pass between cars with my side cases, blocking other motorcycles but they didn’t shout at me, try that in Paris!
I chose a place in a north part of town in Yoff, near the sea. Auberge Keur Diame 16.000 cfa shared bathroom. Ok but really far from center, with taxi it’s 40min to 1h30 and 3500 to 5000cfa. There’s no place to eat around and it’s hard to get a meal from the Auberge, wouldn’t do it again.
I visit the Hotel Oceanic when I was in Dakar, I was too lazy to change but would go there another time.
Got my passavant extended in the office on the main place of Dakar, didn’t pay anything for that.
Spent two days in Dakar (with a visit to the very touristy Gorée Island) very busy, noisy and polluted city, not unpleasant and really few hassling but after days in open air and desert I couldn’t breathe.
Decide to start the way back to Zebrabar, a camp just before Saint-Louis.

May 13: Dakar - Zebrabar
I took back the road to Saint-Louis and stopped at Zebrabar camp 30 km south in front of “Langue de Barbarie”, a sand reef few hundred meters from the coast. There are several trails to reach the camp all sandy but the south one was deeper than other.
The place is a large camp with bungalows with or without bathroom and place for camping and overlanders, I was the only guest when I arrived so I took a bungalow without bathroom for 10.000 cfa, the bathrooms are clean, and the place is very pleasant to rest and relax during a trip, there’s a restaurant but it’s not cheap and not so good.
The main problem is that it really makes you want to bath but when I saw people throwing garbage and everything in the river upstream in Saint-Louis…
I stayed 3 days here because of heat wave in Nouakchott which was my next stop and it was a good thing, I could rest and go shopping at Saint-Louis with Maciej another biker from Poland with an Africa Twin 750 staying there too.











May 17: Zebrabar – Nouakchott
Maciej and I left Zebrabar to reach Nouakchott, the temperature seems to be reasonable, 38°C at departure and the same in Nouakchott, when we reached the Diama border it was already 40°C, we passed the border easily but had to make a new visa for Mauritania: 55€ plus Passavant and insurance.
Then we took the trail and the temperature raised quickly reaching 47°C with peaks at 48°C, I felt the heat but couldn’t believe the 47°C, Maciej had the same level on is thermometer, we rode like that until 50kms of Nouakchott where it starts to cool down, 37°C felt fresh! We both felt better not to be alone in this extreme condition, you really wonder what would happen if you have a problem on the road by this temperature.
We found the Hotel La Palma with the help of people in the street, with AC but not really friendly, I was too tired to look for something else, we even shared the king size bed of the last room.

May 18: Nouakchott – Atar
Maciej took the north road back to Morocco and I was heading to Atar, a mountain region north-east of Nouakchott.
The exit of the city was difficult, the road was closed on two kms for works but no indication of the detour, you have to follow other vehicles in the sandy little streets.
The first part of the road is quite boring , but then I got stopped by my friends of GGSR cops, telling me I was speeding and was caught by speed trap! Bullshit but after 15mins talking in the middle of nowhere by 42°C and no shade I gave up and paid.
Then I stopped in Akjout to get fuel and food but there’s only gasoil in the stations, only diesel vehicles here!… I’ve been told I could find some black market, I had to ask the custom officer at the entry of the city who has the only UL fueled car.
He took me to the black market seller and even bargain the price for me, surrealist situation, I thought I had to pay for that but he clearly didn’t want anything and even told me to find him on my way back few days later to refuel…
After Akjout the road starts to be beautiful with little rocky mountains then you climb on the Atar plateau and the landscape is amazing, it looks like sci-fi and so immense.
But no way to take pictures, my smartphone says it's to hot to work!
I stopped at Imini camping, a courtyard with few rooms where you can camp, could be fine but totally run down and dirty . Once again too tired to look for something else.
The city is has no interest and the touristic season will not start, it’s too late it’s getting too hot.
I came there to see the region and reach Chinguetti 80kms from there, a little desert city with famous ancient libraries.
I asked several person if the trail to Chinguetti is ok for my heavy bike with such tires, they told me it would be fine, “no soft sand just tôle ondulée!” …







May 19: Atar - almost Chinguetti – Atar
The beginning of the trail is ok but not really funny, a mix of tôle ondulée and gravel but the landscapes are really beautiful, then came a portion of tarmac so I thought it’s going to be easy… But quickly trail came back changing all the time, still tôle ondulée but now with ruts of gravel or sand, some portions are ok but I’m really struggling to stay on wheels and it’s already 40°C, I only see Toyota pick-up trucks passing at 60/70kmh the speed you need to drive to pass over, but I can’t with my bike, weight and tires. The gravel ruts become deeper and deeper and at 10km from Chinguetti it turns to 10cms sand with ruts. After 2h30 I realized I’m not going to make it and decided to turn around back to Atar. I arrived exhausted and completely dry at Atar, it’s going to be 45°C the next days, I will leave early tomorrow to go back to Nouakchott.





















May 20: Atar - Nouakchott
The first part of the road is beautiful and look different with the morning light.
I stopped in Akjout to refuel with my black market seller, he wants more money than 2 days before, I told him I’m going to get the custom officer for the deal, the price suddenly drop to what I paid last time.
Of course I get stopped by the same cop I met two days before, he even remember my name, and after saying that I was doing fine this day, no speeding etc, he starts to touch my tank bag saying “Cadeau” (present)! I smile and say “ impossible” then he starts to open zips to look what inside, I stop smiling , say “It’s a long way to Nouakchott, bye-bye” and start off…
In Atar I stopped at the Auberge Triskell in a wood shack on the roof with shared bathroom 600 mru
A nice place with a restaurant (not cheap but good) you can park inside.
I stay one day in Nouackchott where the temperature is much lower.

May 22: Nouakchott - Nouadhibou
I planned to camp in the Banc d’Arguin Park but the information office is closed and the beginning of the trails to get there from the main road are covered with sand by the strong wind, I decided to give up and continue north.
There’s a constant strong wind coming from north-west, it’s tiring and fuel consumption is much higher so I have to take care, it will be the same for three days!
I arrive too late at the crossing to Nouadhibou or Morocco border so I have to spend the night in NDB, this time I’ll stay at Villa Maguella, new place owned by Dutch men on the shore of bay. 600mru. Spend very nice evening with family and guests.









May 23: Nouadhibou - Boujdour
The border passing is easy but take long, all vehicles have to pass the scanner on Moroccan side.
Not the most pleasant day with wind, sand and a road I’ve already done.
Arriving tired at the classic check point of Boujdour, they ask for my passport and nothing happen for 10 minutes, I go to the shack and ask for news, they tell me I have to wait. Later two civil police cars arrive and escort me to my hotel, the guy from the hotel tell me that’s the way they do in Boujdour!
I will learn the day after by the custom guy that people from US misbehaved in the city few times before so they watch for foreigners staying in the city…
Stayed at Hotel Taiba: 150 mad with bathroom clean and friendly staff

May 24: Boujdour - El Ouatia
Last day with this bloody wind.
Hotel Dubai 150mad with bathroom, bike in the lobby for the night.
Nice little town for one night stop.



May 25: El Ouatia – Tafraoute
The road leading to Tafraoute is still a real delight.
Hotel Tifaouine 250 mad with breakfast and bathroom, the swimming pool is under construction…







May 26: Tafraoute – Agdz
Another lovely road
Riad Tabhirte 250 with bathroom and big breakfast, you can have diner, really lovely place in the palm grove.





May 27: Agdz- Tinghir
I wanted to see what the Erfoud region looks like, but arriving there I saw huge hotels and tourist shops with berber costumes, I decide to go on until Tinghir.
I stayed at Camping l’Atlas, very nice camp with clean bathroom and swimming pool, friendly staff.



May 28: Tinghir – Azrou
Planned to stay one day but rain announced for the day after so took the road to Azrou via Gorges du Todra, Imilchil, El Kebab, Khenifra
Stayed at Camping Amazigh where we had a big storm just after I pitched my tent.
The camp is fine with grass and trees but noisy with road, dogs barking and a big hotel construction site until 10pm around.















May 29: Azrou – Chefchaouen
Road to Chechaouen via Meknes, nothing special
Stayed at Camping Azilan, the campground and location is fine but dirty bathrooms.
Went for a walk in Chefchaouen… a city painted in blue with a lot of people trying to sell ugly things to tourists taking selfies… You have to love blue!

May 30: Chechaouen – Tanger Med
The checking time for ferry was 3 to 10pm so I took my time via Smir to reach Tanger Med port.
I planned to be in advance to settle in the ferry…stupid!
At the check in , the guy told me my covid pass was too old! But I could go and find the doctor at the next village to make a test.
Little stress urge, I drove to the village searching for the doctor, then I saw a brand new BMW car parked and guess what? there was a “Medical Office” sign. They put something in my nose, 5 min and 250 mad later I had my magic paper and drove back to the check in. There must be a lot like me per day!
After check in I had to pass the bike to the scanner, it can take time, thent I had to wait the ferry to arrive (late) and endlessly disembark all the vehicles before get in and find a bench to sleep.



June 01: Barcelona - France
Ferry arrived in Barcelona 2h in advance, just had time for breakfast before disembarking.
There were a lot of bikes waiting to get in and go to Morocco compared to what I saw during the trip.
Then I started the way back to Paris with a stop in Montpellier and the first shock was the price of fuel.

If you have any question to prepare a trip in this places, I’ll be glad to answer if I can, I’ve learned so much by reading other traveler’s stories and tips here.

Frédéric 

Great story! On the way you went though some politically unstable areas, and of course the Dakar Rally changed because it was considered unsafe. Did you have any concerns for your own safety, or see anything that worried you?

I never felt unsafe at any moment, but I stayed on the main road in the Western Sahara which is secured by army and there's a lot of check points.
Before going to Atar, I checked if the region was safe and it was.
I didn't get close to algerian or malian border.
I use to walk a lot in cities and even in the most "popular" parts I never been worried or felt hostility.
On the contrary, there was always somebody to help or just joining to talk by curiosity about the trip or the bike.

Thanks so much for posting the information and pictures from a route few overlanders where taking at the time. Great source of information. Thanks!

Wonderful story and so much detail - thank you!

When you got a visa heading south at the Mauritania border, did that allow you to re-renter when heading back north from Senegal?


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Unfortunately no, you have to make a new visa and pay 55€ to re-enter Mauritania.
The multi-entry visa doesn't exist anymore, at least in 2022...
Do you plan to go there?

I leave for the ferry on Friday 3rd ;-)

Great! do you stop in Dakar or go further south?
If you have any question I can answer...

Oh definitely turn around at Dakar. No further this time.

Only a couple of questions come to mind right now - what did you pay for each thing at the borders and hat was the petrol quality like in Mauritania.

Your detail so far has been really helpful!


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And I should be clear - Dakar would be a stretch target. I’m totally happy if I don’t get that far this time. Should happily get to Mauritania but Dakar seems a stretch.


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Morocco/Mauritania border
Nothing on Maroccan side
On Mauritanian side:
55€ for the visa: you need to have the exact count in clean notes (and keep the same for the way back if you re-enter from Senegal
10€ for the passavant: vehicule entry authorization (depends on the duration of stay)
15€ for insurrance: you need to have it for cops.

Here's a picture of Cheikh, the guy I paid to help me for the border, you can do without but he's very serious and well known if you want.
The price is supposed to be 10€, I paid 5.


Diama border Mauritania/Senegal:
Before the border, you'll pass behind the national park office, the guy will say you have to pay, it seems that it's not true but after 10 min talking I paid (200 mru, 5€)
Mauritanian side:
Custom: nothing
Passport stamp: nothing (some people have been asked to pay...)
municipal Tax: 100 Mru (about 2,5€)
Senegal side:
No visa (for french...)
Passavant: 10€ for 5 days (you can extend it later in Dakar)
Didn't take insurance there, I did it in Saint-Louis
You'll have to pay to pass the bridge, 10€ (no coins) or 1000 cfa (xof) or 250mru.

About the petrol quality in Mauritania, I had no problem, but the octane rating is lower.
Except once I always got it from stations.
There were no UL fuel in El Argoub when I was there, fill up in Bir Gandouz or Nouadhibou. And of course in Chami between Nouadhibou and Nouakchott.

In Mauritania, it's not easy to find something to eat for lunch on the road, I always had, bananas, bread, sardines, nuts, biscuits... But you'll find water in every grocery.

Don't forget to take a whole lot of "fiche" for the checkpoints, you'll save time.