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**zygoat4** · #1 14 Oct 2009

Polish Trip August 2009

Monday August 3rd:
Luggage loaded, oil checked, petrol tank full, check google routes, ferry tickets, map Docs.
Last call to Pete to check the trip is still on.

Tuesday August 4th:
Alarm goes off 03:30, last time I saw 03:30 it was nearly time for bed.
I allow myself 1 snooze (8mins).
03:38 alarm goes off again, kiss sleeping wife, look in on sleeping baby, time to get dressed – check out of the window – hey! It’s not raining!
On with the leathers and boots, get bike out from garage, text arrives from Pete so its time to go.
Gentle pootle to the M4 Jn 28 roundabout where we arranged to meet and up onto the pavement to wait for him. As planned I hear the sound of his Termignonis at 3:59, he drives past at 04:00, I follow.
I pass him at the end of the slip road and we settle into the first leg – steady 80 – 85.
Approaching Swindon we catch up with the weather, drizzle more than rain, doesn’t seem worth stopping for waterproofs – Pete already had his on.
Reading Services – still drizzling but the sky ahead looks brighter so not bothering with waterproofs – the wind should dry me off. Pete pulls alongside (we always fill up together, I fill he pays and vice versa), I can see the grin through his helmet, if it got any wider his whole head would flip off the back!
5 mins and we’re off, we are booked on the 09.30 boat out of Dover but would like to be on an earlier one.
Off the M4 at Jn10 for A329 then M3 then M25. Its still only about 05.30 so the M25 is fairly clear and the speed limits aren’t lit up – that’s good.
Onto the M20, we soon come up behind two lorries, one on the inside lane doing 55mph the other on the outside doing 55.0000001mph. We filter past the irate car drivers then follow for about 2 miles – I can hear Pete’s blood starting to boil, that’s it – down 2 cogs, hard shoulder, I’m clear.
07:30, fuel light comes on on the downhill into Dover. We pull into the 2nd garage. The grin is still there!
07:40 we are at the Sea France gate – ‘I can get you on the 08:10 sailing for a tenner each’ – sounds a bit steep, last time I went they did that for free and Pete says it’s free on the Chunnel. We pay and then it’s the lidless ride to lane 156 to wait. 3 other bikes come in just behind us, 2 guys off to do the Milau bridge and another on a BMW GS, we only had time for quick hellos before we are called onto the boat, crew tie us down, time for brekky.
10.45 (Euro time) a little filtering through the lorries and we are out into French daylight – country No.3, no hassle at immigration and off to the autoroute. Less than 30 mins. later we’re passing Adinkerke – no stopping for cheap booze or fags, but the queues to get off the autoroute were about 2 miles in each direction.
One quick fuel stop in Belgium then into Netherlands then Germany – country No. 6 – not bad before lunch!
Last fuel stop of the day we get the directions out and make fresh notes, 45 mins. later we pull up outside the Goalfever Guesthouse in Essen, no U turns, no stopping to re-read directions!
Check in, bikes secured, quick shower, shorts on – time for a

. Maybe we should have turned left, but it was a 3 mile walk until we found a bar! Still the

was cold and a reasonable price.
I think we had 4 kleiners (little ones) each then decided it was time to eat, we had seen a restaurant on our way to the bar so decided to give it a try – good food and less than 10 Eu a head including a

and a coffee.
Back to the guesthouse, another couple of

s and a look at the map and directions then early night.
Miles 493.6

**zygoat4** · #2 15 Oct 2009

Wednesday August 5th:
Woke about 6:30. Sh*t, shower – feck shaving I ain’t gonna be kissing anyone for over a week!
On the road by 07:00. ‘Daddy can we have a black car, they’re the fastest!’ They don’t hang about on the autobahns! Loads of BMWs, Mercs and Audis whizzing past – must have been doing well over 200kmh (130mph) all black!
It had to be done, head down – I got my 1000 Monster up to 140mph on the clock, still had about 1500 revs left before the limiter, so may have been a little quicker in 5th – will be putting a bigger rear sprocket on soon. Plenty of roadworks on the autobahn so we caught up with the BMs, Mercs and Audis by filtering!
By the side of the road we noticed a couple of rather daunting buildings – and there was a bear statue – I guess that was the old border to East Germany.
Same trick as yesterday – 50 miles out from Berlin at last fuel stop – re-check directions, we rode straight to the door of the Odyssee Globetrotter Hostel. Off street parking again, bikes secured, shorts on, time to become tourists. Well, after a

of course.

Follow the blue touristy signs – we found the Brandenburg Gate
Then onto one of the few remaining sections of the wall – most of it has been destroyed but a little has been kept as a reminder and they are creating a museum/memorial thing close by and have posters up around the site giving a lot of the story of the wall and its victims. The wall itself is only about 7 ft high and 6 inches thick – I started to think ‘how could this have caused so much grief for nearly 30 yrs, then realised it wasn’t the wall but the 5 or more metres of NO MAN’S LAND on either side with look-out posts and machine guns’.
Next – Checkpoint Charlie –

OK done history, time for tea – could we find anywhere that sold wurst (German sausages) could we heck, there was Chinese, Japanese, Turkish, Italian, everything except German. Eventually stopped at one place and asked if he could do us something? Yes.
On then to a quiet little local bar for a couple, then back to the hostel for the final 2 before bed
Miles 355

**zygoat4** · #3 16 Oct 2009

Thursday August 6th:
Poland here we come.
Up and off early as usual, weather has been great since we left UK so would rather be drinking

than riding by 2pm.
Foggy start and not too sure of directions in the city so just tried to head SSE judging only by the direction of the satellite dishes. It worked we were soon on the autobahn towards Cottbus.
I nearly got wiped out by a big black Audi cutting back in too close after overtaking me (at about 140mph).
Stopped for petrol about 40 miles out of Berlin and had a chat to a couple of Polish wingers heading for a Treffen in Czech Republic. I asked why they were going through Germany? – ‘The roads are better’
Soon we came upon a tailback, filtered for about 5 miles, got to the front and were greeted by a policeman and a scene of carnage. He explained that the driver of the now wrecked car appeared to have fallen asleep at the wheel, veered to the left, flipped and rolled. 2 dead, no other vehicles involved.
The crash investigators were already measuring the skid marks.
We were only held up about 20 mins.
40 miles later I realised what the wingers meant – the first 30 miles of the E40 once you cross the border into Poland are terrible – really bumpy – I wished I’d mugged the guy in Dover for his BMW GS! I soon noticed that all the traffic was driving on the left, so I copied and found it was better – a little.
Cool electronic roadsigns in Poland – giving air temp. and road temp – just like at GPs with track temp.
We had arranged to text Tomek and Graznya from Wroclaw so they could meet us at the Gliwice.
We actually went another 30 miles before I texted Tomek so we were only about 30 mins from Gliwice.
It turns out that this text didn’t arrive until Friday afternoon – so Tomek wasn’t waiting for us at the Gliwice turn off as we’d expected. We stopped and I texted both of them, Graznya replied you can either wait and Tomek will be along in 30 mins or drive on into Bytom where Tomek will wait ‘by the table’.
We drove on into Bytom, didn’t see any table, (I still don’t know what she meant by ‘table’), didn’t see Tomek and continued to drive another 5 miles towards Krakow. I decided it was time to pull in and phone. Tomek had seen us ride past but had been unable to catch us in his Smart. I eventually gave my phone to a ‘stranger’ to explain where we were. 10 mins. later Tomek arrived and led us to their home.
Hugs and handshakes then unloading the bikes and putting them in the garage then getting changed then lunch – with

– and time to catch up – we hadn’t seen each other since Faro 2004 so plenty of news both ways.
That evening Tomek took us out (by car) to Gliwice (Graznya was confined to quarters for medical reasons) for a couple of

s with the Firebirds of Silesia. We chewed the fat for a couple of hours – their English was amazing – our Polish is crap – I had crammed up on ‘hello, please, thank-you, yes, no and how are you’ just before we left an we already knew na zdrowie from our first meeting with Graznya in 2003 at Faro.

Miles 342.2

**zygoat4** · #4 19 Oct 2009

Friday August 7th.
Auschwitz and Birkrnau.
Tomek drove us to Auschwitz, took us to the entrance, paid for us to get in, then left us. Graznya had told us that all Polish children visit whilst in High School and it was too soon to go back.
We were taken around by an English speaking guide, he constantly refered to ‘The Nazis’rather than ‘The Germans’ so there is clearly a distinction in the minds of the Polish people which I found hard to understand.
Auschwitz is horrific, Rafal from the Firebirds summed it up very well the evening before – that it was a place of extermination and annihilation rather than a prison.
Most countries have history of cruel tortures and punishments, but Auschwitz (and Birkenau) were there purely to destroy people.

The tour lasted about 3 hours including the visit to Birkenau.

I understand why they don’t want to go back. I won’t, ever, nor will Pete.
Everyone should go, once.
I’d suggest over 21 only.

**zygoat4** · #5 19 Oct 2009

After Auschwitz and Birkenau Tomek took us – via the ‘scenic’ route to Krakow, 2nd city of Poland and hometown to Pope John-Paul II. The Polish road network appears to be under a major (re)-construction – ready for Euro 2012 football. We found about 30 miles of toll motorway – the toll booths were fully operational – just the road was only about 75% constructed – rip off!
We had dinner close to the castle (where there lives a dragon – at least according to the tourist shoppes).
We also saw the house where JPII lived when he was Bishop of Krakow including a lifesize picture of him in the window.

Nearby, in the park, is an exhibition of all the countries he visited as Pope – over 100 visits.
Bought jewelery for wifey – she might let me go again!
Miles 0

**5 Eyes** · #6 19 Oct 2009

HI
if you are heading south you should ask your friend to guide you down to Morskie Okno, in the direction of Zakopane, might not be a great time to be riding in Pland weather wise but it is pretty cool.

**zygoat4** · #7 20 Oct 2009

Saturday August 8th:
When I left home I knew I had less than 2000 miles left on my back tyre, so decided to get a part worn in Poland. I’d already asked Tomek if he knew of one. His mate is a tyre dealer – said he had a Metzler in the right size but not a Michelin or could get a new Michelin for ZL 500 ~ £100. Tomek then offered me the tyre from his VFR750:

After breakfast Tomek and I set off for his mate’s shop, back wheel of the VFR in the car, me on my bike. His mate had the tyre changed over in next to no time – and didn’t charge me! I later agreed to give Tomek ZL200 for the tyre.

That afternoon Tomek borrowed Graznya’s Honda VTX1800

and we did the ‘usual’ Polish (younger) biker thing of riding out to castles – though we gave the wall climbing a miss as we are ‘older and wiser’ now???
That evening we dragged Tomek to his ‘local’ bar – 3 pints for ZL10.50 ~ £2, then we had the call from Graznya that the ‘pizza from hell’ had arrived so it was off to the local shop / offie – 9 pints for ZL20 ~ £4 including a very nice Tyskie Porter. The pizza was spicy that evening – it was red hot the morning
after – on its way out!

Miles 124.2

pics:
Tomek's VFR in 2006 and 2009 and Graznya's VTX1800

**zygoat4** · #8 21 Oct 2009

Sunday August 9th
Feeling a little fragile – thanks to the

, vodka and pizza the night before – so we had a bit of a lie in then Tomek took us to a silver mine (closed – now a museum). We had a very interesting tour with a guide fluent in about 8 languages.
Tomek then showed us the plot of land then have bought and hope to build a new house on within the next 3 yrs.
Back to the flat, time to pack up and get back into the leathers.

then say our goodbyes to Tomek and Graznya

Then head off on the next leg of the tour.
Tomek lead us the 50 miles to the Polish/Czech border then one final handshake and we were off.

**zygoat4** · #9 21 Oct 2009

25 miles later – I hear a bang / pop – the handling feels a bit funny?
I slow a little, Pete gives me the thumbs up? I speed up again, the bike still feels odd, so I pull over by a bus stop. I’ve got a puncture in the rear tyre. I call Carole Nash – various calls from the local office then - International rescue are on their way! Meanwhile a local Christian Biker – www.road146.com -turns up on his way home from a rally, we explain the puncture, he makes a couple of phone calls and tells us that there’s a place 2km away where there’s an old man who can fix anything! We decide to stay put and await recovery so he drives off to find the place and comes back 30 mins later with a guy who has a temporary repair plug which he proceeds to fit. Just as he’s doing this the recovery truck arrives – the driver speaks exactly no words of English – we – exactly none of Czech! Pete and I agree the temporary repair would be OK to ride home from bike night, but not 1500 miles home (via the RING). A couple of calls to Czech recovery later we load the bike onto his lorry and off we go – back the way we came to Cesky Tesin – about 2ft inside the Czech border.

In the meantime I get a text from Petra Davis at the Franz Kafka guesthouse in Prague – ‘What time do you expect to arrive?’. For now I ignore it as I don’t really know what’s happening. An hour later she rings, a little irate that I haven’t replied. I explain that I’ve had the puncture and will probably not be coming, ‘well you could have let me know’, ‘well I would have had I known myself, I was going to!’
After a couple more texts she wished me luck and all was good.
I also phone Brendan at Sliders to ask if I can change our booking to Tuesday night – OK.

We are delivered to a tyre dealer – who has come out at 7pm on a Sunday evening, so I can’t really fault him.
He agrees that the temporary repair is just that – very temporary. He will fit a new tyre for KR 4500 – or - KR3400 for cash! About £112 – not too bad – as I said at 7pm on a Sunday evening.

Now – do we try to ride on to our planned destination in Prague about 200 miles away? Back onto Carole Nash – can you put us up for the night locally – after some debate they agree for me but not for Pete – OK we’ll blag it!
Czech rescue then call and tell us to go to Havirov – 15 miles away and find the Formula Hotel on the way out of the city. I get to the roundabout he suggested, can’t see any hotel – it’s now 8.30 pm and dark. There’s a petrol station, I pull in to fill up, looking a little lost, Pete pulls in behind – ‘that was easy’, ‘what do you mean?’, ‘it’s right behind the petrol station!’ – cool!
I walk into the hotel – a little tentatively, I am welcomed by a cute young blond who says she’s expecting me. ‘And my friend?’ ‘Yes’ – Excellent.
‘Can we lock our bikes to the lamppost outside?’
‘No, bring them in here’ – the lobby, right by the bar!

We are too late for dinner – so its 2 pints of lager and a packet of crisp please.
The aforementioned cute blond then asks us ‘what about breakfast?’
‘What time is it as we want to be away early, many kilometres to make up’
‘7 in the morning’
‘Oh’
‘but I can do it at 6 if you like, what do you want?’
we settle for ham and eggs.

Miles 87.5 (plus 25 on a wagon)

**zygoat4** · #10 22 Oct 2009

Monday August 8th:
Breakfast is lovely a sort of fried egg omelette on ham.
We have a long way to go today so we are on the road by 06.30.
Its head down a**e up, forget visiting the circuit at Brno, forget nice cheap

in Prague – we need to be in Germany tonight, less than 100 miles from the RING.
600 miles of boring autobahn later – only broken by a 10 minute downpour near Frankfurt – we pulled off and started looking for a place to stay, found a guesthouse close to Diez near Limburg. 28Eu B&B each.
‘Dinner?’ – ‘only pre-booked, you’ll have to walk 2km into town’
OK had a couple of

s and ate. OK back to the guesthouse, nightcap then bed. The guesthouse was all in darkness and no-one was to be seen – bed almost sober before 10pm!
Miles 629.7 > 1000km so does that qualify us for Iron Butt?

**zygoat4** · #11 26 Oct 2009

Tuesday August 11th:
Breakfast at 8.30, chat to the owner about the best route to the RING, we don’t want to use the autobahn, need to round the tyres off again after yesterday. We follow the rivers Lahn, Rhine and Mosel.
In Koblenz Pete tells me I have no back light, 5 mins later we pass a polizei car just about to turn out of a side road behind us – OK, finger the brake lever and pull into the petrol station!
Whip out bulb – into petrol station, ‘haben sie ein?’ waving the offending bulb.
‘Yah, 2.50Eu’ ‘OK, danke’
On we go. Soon we see signs for the RING – and it starts to rain – that’s not good!

Started to see these signs at the side of the road.
I can only guess it means ‘Look out for bikers riding like tw*ts for the next 1km’

**zygoat4** · #12 26 Oct 2009

We stop at the petrol station right by the RING and fill up – this time with 98 – we should treat the ‘girls’ nicely before we thrash them later.
Off we go again, past the RING looking for signs to Dollendorf, then looking for Sliders – they do have a sign, but it’s upstairs in the kitchen.
Luckily there’s a bloke leaning out of a Brit plate transit who gives us a wave, so we stop.
‘You’re the 2 guys who had the puncture?’ ‘Yea’
‘You’ve found Sliders!’ http://www.slidersguesthouse.com/index.htm
We park the bikes in the garage and he shows us the way in and makes us a brew. A quick chat and John tells us that the RING doesn’t open to the public until about 5.30pm.
After a few minutes Brendan comes in, explains the

fridge – you put your name by your room number and every time you take a

you mark your line. In the morning you tally up and settle - cool!
He then shows us our room and we get out of the leathers into our shorts – yes, the sun is out and it’s getting hot, should dry the track up nicely.
Down we go, we’ll have just one

in the garden, its only 1pm so plenty of time before we ride.
Unfortunately Brendan has blown the engine on his track car so we don’t get a lap with an expert!
We notice John, bathing his toe in salt water, ‘what happened?’

‘Schoolboy error, had the wrong boots on last night, touring, not racing, went round the RING, suddenly felt a burning sensation in my right little toe on a righthander!’ Ouch.

**zygoat4** · #13 26 Oct 2009

About 16.15 he says ‘OK time to get ready, I’ll take you to the RING and show you where to get passes etc.’
We also met Tom who was stopping at Sliders on his way to Brno for the MotoGP.
16.30 off we go, John has an 06 ‘blade. He’s off on the twisties at motorway speeds – he can ride!
We get to the RING, he shows us where to get the passes – its 22Eu per lap, we ask if we can share a 4 lap pass at 75Eu, OK.
There’s a few Porsches going round the full circuit, including 2 Cayennes which must have been doing at least 150!
John explains the rules – keep right, road law applies, overtake only on the left. Keep a watch in your mirrors, there may be a Lambo coming up behind you at 200mph! If something quick comes up, indicate right to let them know you’ve seen them and they can overtake you.
OK the circuit opens, we go to our bikes, trundle up to the gate, I swipe my pass then give it to the marshal to give to Pete. John’s long gone!
I wait for Pete to give me the pass back then onto the track proper, through the little 30kmh chicane, time to go.
Full set of horns and tail – not waiting for Pete – he can catch me if he can!
The short circuit is closed off – touring cars that weekend, so a short section very narrow then away.
Within a mile I come up behind an R1, I think he’s a novice like me so I follow, he’s quicker on the straights, but I can make up time braking later as I get an early warning from his brake light!
I follow him all the way round – heartbeat now over 200 blood pressure off the scale – WOW.
I wait for Pete so we can do lap No.2.
Same again but I don’t wait for the pass. No-one to follow, I soon pass an Astra GTE then get taken by a Golf GTI that looks prepped. It’s all getting lairy and I almost overcook it a couple of times, scraping metal on both sides on the corners, the front end getting all loose on plenty of occasions.
Hey, I’ve just passed the General Lee – I remember seeing it in the car park – Daisy is looking rough these days!

It seems a long time when you are out there – I have no idea of my time at all, but I wasn’t passed by much and there was plenty of very quick stuff in the car park!
I left the circuit, parked the bike up and waited for Pete.
We were both knackered and buzzing!
Do we do another 75Eu worth?
Will we live???
We decided to call it a day!
I think a wise decision, though very tempted to get an R6 and go back for a few nights – money and wifey permitting! They say it takes 50 laps to learn the circuit, only then can you start to go quicker!

We then wandered around, watching the cars and bikes taking to the track, a couple of nice Porsche GT3RS’s and a very nice Audi. No sign of Sabine though.

Also a very well looked after Morgan 8 with a couple clearly putting their pensions to good use.

**zygoat4** · #14 26 Oct 2009

Loads of different bikes, from 350 trailies to a 996, which came back on the back of a wagon, somewhat modified!
We met up with Tom who came to the circuit but didn’t fancy binning it and wasting the £500 plus he’d paid to go to Brno.
We then caught up with John again and it was time to head back to Sliders, he promised to go a little slower this time!
Back at Sliders – bikes parked. My summer gloves were still damp so I decided to leave them on my exhausts to dry out.
Out of our leathers and into shorts – TO THE BAR – last night of our tour.
We worked our way through 16 bottles between us, and a steak each from the local pizza delivery service.
We also learned that Brendan – your local friendly innkeeper – and a bit of a petrol head was in fact Brendan Keirle – The Baron of PB fame – and held the fastest bike lap for 3 yrs of 7.28. And he showed us the onboard video to prove it!
Miles 148.7

**zygoat4** · #15 28 Oct 2009

Wednesday August 12th:
The last leg.
Up for breakfast at 8.30. Check all our belongings are secured to the bikes. Said our goodbyes then we’re off.
Gloves on exhaust – bad idea – they shrank.
Weather is good so we’ve decided to pop into Luxembourg, just to say we’ve been there, so it’s A and B roads all morning. Brendan and John asked why we wanted to go to Luxembourg as it’s a sh*thole.
They were right, but at least petrol was down to 1.11Eu or under £1 a litre – so we filled up anyway – 11 litres between us. Finally gave up on trying to un-shrink my summer gloves, binned them and dug out the winter gloves – I’d expected to need them once we got back across the channel anyway.
Well Luxembourg took about 12 miles and 15 mins. Then on into Belgium then France, the roads getting better all the way.
We were booked on the 18:30 crossing out of Calais, but I had lost our booking advice and for some reason I thought our boat was 16:30! So once we got to France – time to get a bit of a move on. Oh, A26 – peage – we’ve heard the stories about them using the timings to work out if you’ve been speeding so stuck at 80.8mph (130kmh). We get to the toll booth at the other end – relieved of 3.80 Eu each. Signs showing about 40 km (25 miles) to Calais – and the fuel light is just starting to flicker on and it’s 3pm. Let’s go for it. 100 mph + all the way and we’ll dive into the last petrol station in Calais. No petrol stations, we get to the port and to the check in – ‘I can put you on the 15:50 for a tenner’, ‘OK’.
We meet a couple on a Harley who are complaining that

is too expensive in France – we tell them its reasonable in Germany, cheap in Czech Republic and cheap in Poland. Onto the boat, we are parked right at the back of the lorry deck – its going to take ages to get off!
Up to the restaurant for lunch / tea – 1 look at the prices – no way!
To the bar – a

and a bun (a small baguette), only slightly less painful.
We sit at the pointy end and Pete nods off.
The White Cliffs loom into view and it isn’t raining.
Down to deck 5 and unstrap the bikes, wait for all the lorries to go then out into the fresh air. Miraculously HM Customs don’t suspect us of carrying 75 kg tobacco, 300 litres of spirits, 2kg of crack cocaine and more weaponry that the Army are allowed to have in Afghanistan and they let us through. Still praying the bike will keep going on fumes we get to the petrol station. 25 litres between the 2 bikes – the biggest fill all trip.
Out onto the A20 then M20 – feels like we are still in Europe – all the cars are driving on the right – hey I can play this game – inside lane all the way at 95mph.
Wrong turn – you know how the M20 goes towards Central London and the M26 goes west bound to join the M25, so do I but I’d forgotten until I noticed the fork in the road and I was still in the outside lane – at 90. Pete had spotted it and I saw him disappear off on the correct route. OK more head down a*se up. 8 miles to M25, I know he will ease off a bit so should catch him up eventually, or he’ll wait at Reading services. Much lane splitting later I caught him on the M3 and told him he was leading at least until the M4, but with the roundabouts and traffic lights around Bracknell and Wokingham we got a bit mixed up and I nearly took out a Ducati Multistrada who was sort of keeping pace with us.
Reading Services – last fuel stop. I tell Pete I will turn off the M4 at Jn24 so we shake hands and thank each other for a great holiday.
A tear in my eye we rejoin the M4, clear run, no rain and soon I’m waving goodbye to Pete, then home.

Miles 528.5

Trip totals:
Miles: 2709.4
Fuel: 213.77 litres costing £239.79
MPG: 55
Countries: 9 – Borders: 12. Passports checked only at Dover and Calais.

Disclaimer: All statements made here are as viewed through a dead-bug-stained visor and an active imagination, so should be viewed thus and not as concrete facts.

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