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Photo by Lois Pryce, schoolkids in Algeria

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Photo of Lois Pryce, UK
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Old 11 Oct 2009
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Nairobi, Kenya
Posts: 24
Post Remco goes Latin America

Offroad baptism.

The predatory birds hover above the Mexican prairie. It is dry and hard. It almost seems the asphalt is simmering a bit under the sun. The road cuts through the desierto. Not a dessert of which the grains of sand invite to swim in. This dessert is rough, barren, a stretched lowland covered with bushes and cactuses. In the distance, in all directions around me, the shapes of mountains are visible.

I am already driving for a while, when I approach some hilly landscape. I see a small building a the abandoned surroundings. It appears to be the roadhouse I have been looking for: I was told there was a path right there that would cut trough the hills. I was about time to say by to the asphalt for a moment and test my Honda XR650L on its off-road qualities.

Well, I wanted off-road, and I got off-road! On some locations the road was sooo bad, I had to drive around it. Sight….all those alternative routes. And this was not everything yet. Not even close…


The first yards feel wonderful. I drive on soft earth that lies steadily on an underground of flat rock. The wheels mow the red grains loose, and leave a small cloud of dust behind. It becomes more hilly. De main road disappears from sight. More cracks appear in the road, unevenness in the road, lose stones, and holes. Occasionally when I need to adjust, my foot sticks for a second to the ground, which makes my calf hit the pannier. Or my upper body caches a low hanging branch.
I have to concentrate to keep the bike in balance, and to get round any obstacle, taking the next one in consideration. Unfortunately the motorbike is not as flexible as a bicycle. With all the weight it has ( I guess appr 200kg) and the luggage (with panniers appr 30kg) dat drags/pushes behind.
I have to make one choice after the other: Do I go right, left, along the rock, across or trough the water? Do I take the side of the abyss, or the mountainside? Do I go along the riverbed, or should I drive through the dried out river? Choices and anticipating on possible obstacles that follow, or rather hoping that non will follow to quickly!

After approx. 40 kilometers (25 miles) and 1,5 hour later I arrive a little village, Cuatro de Australia. 30 families live here. The village was on 1/3 rd of my cross over route. I ask a few inhabitants for the road. They wave a bit with their arms and call out ‘that way’. Which way? They swish their arms up again. I convince them to make a drawing: one road, one intersection, one detraction. Muy simple.

Hint 1: A closed fence on the road. I thing about returning when I a notice a side-path. Never give up, never surrender!
Hint 2: I don’t get across any approaching traffic, horse or car. Neither do I get passed by any. Hint 3: I am standing in from of a crossroad with 4 paths to choose. Which one to take?
Hint 4: A path uphill suddenly stops to exist any further
Hint 5: A path (1,5 meter wide) downhill I can only take turning the engine off. Braking on the clutch. The loose stones roll down with me.
Hint 6: I am traveling for 2 hours and only did 30 km (19 miles)

Then another cross road. One spur is covered with greenery, the other seemed to been used recently. It is 5 pm. I have lost my orientation. I run some scenario{s trough my head. One is the set up my tent when it gets dark. I have 1,5 liters of extra water with me, and some muesli bars.
I take my gadget compass-temperature measure. The arrow keeps on turning. Should I return? I did try to memorize the way back along the way, choosing some points of recognition. However, I don’t want to head back, as I don’t know yet the best way to get up the hill from hint number 5. Then, in the far distance it starts to thunder. A dark cover of clouds sinisterly approaches me. This is the last thing I need! I decide to return.

Then fate hits.

I am standing at the foot of the feared hill from hint 5. How do I approach this one. Very loose underground, 45 degrees ascending. To take this with high speed may be too uncontrolled. A high spinning wheel creates less grip. So I have to go slow in high speed. Or was it the other way around? I put the bike in 2nd gear. Slowly. It is too heavy for the bike. I go to slow. The engine cuts off. I start it again. In its 1st gear. Some stones jump away from under the wheel. So I should try the 2nd gear again. The engine snores, growls, howls. I am halfway. I go around a big rock, the motorbike bends slightly sideways. Some stones glide away. I lose grip. The bike overturns to the left. I throw my weight to the right, but it is too late:

Boem, Kedeng, Beng! Motorbike on ground. I stand next to it. Engine is snoring. I quickly turn it off with the emergency button. Petrol smell. Leakage around the tank cap. I turn it tight. It stops. I hear something flow. I see a small pool of liquid. Bigger leakage. From where? Tank? Do I have a hole? Time is running out before tank is completely empty. The bike needs to get up. I push and pull. Too heavy. I tug the luggage off the bike. I push and pull again. Almost, come ‘on!
The motor stands straight. Leakage stops.. Pfew….

There I am. In the middle of nowhere. No sight of any living soul, and I don{t expect any the days to come.
Damage: physically some scratches, material a bit dented, ego a bit snapped. And now?

Should I have continued instead? Perhaps yes, or not? Later I found out I took a wrong turn already very early of the journey.

In the end I drive the bike up – slowly without luggage, in steps. I carry the luggage myself up. And with my tail between my legs I ride back to Cuatro de Australia. This is a wise lesson: no more detours, alternative routes, on roads other people don’t take frequently. At least not by myself.

I arrive at Cuatro de Australia. The men explain me ones again how I should drive. Waiving and swishing. They convince me the give it a try again the next day. I stay with the Escareño family, they provide me food and shelter.
The next day I do decide to leave this battle of the desierto for what it is, and keep to my newly learned lesson. Detours: they bring you in tough situations. If it is worth it? In hine-side, with a Sol in my hand, looking in back, for sure..

Later day afternoon I did leave my lesson for what is was worth and I drove 80 km trough the Desierto de Parras. FANTASTIC!

Hasta luego!
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