El Cuco to Leon

I left El Cuco before the bands got tuned up for the day. It is just over 100km to the Honduras border and having heard horrific tales of the difficulty of crossing the border due to the rapaciousness of the border touts, I wanted to arrive fresh , hydrated and with the right sense of bemusement.

I needn’t have worried. The little Suzuki flew under the helper’s radar. I could see them poised at the side of the road to the border, sun glinting from their home made laminated passes. No one was interested.

Driving into the town of Guasaule, I saw a Canadian plated big BMW surrounded by touts. The driver and his teenage daughter looking stressed. I pulled up alongside, lifted my visor and introduced myself asking could I assist.

The touts all did a second take, looked at me, the bike plates and I could see them doing quick calculations as to where they could make the most money.

The driver looked relieved: ‘ I can do the entry by myself, but I am reluctant to leave my daughter here alone. Can you keep an eye on things ‘

“ Sure, you go first. I think my entry should be easy. “

Ten minutes later he was back. Entry achieved .

My entry could not be simpler. Just went to the office , paid $3 and got my passport stamped. No bike details were required.

I had decided to visit Honduras on my return to Guatemala so I just aimed for the Nicaraguan border.

On the potholed road down to the border, I was passed far to close by a chicken bus, which then drove crazily away,wandering all over the road. A few kms later I came across the bus stopped in the middle of the road , a crumpled kid’s bike and a little body lying nearby covered by a sheet . I stopped and asked if any help was needed but was told an eight year old girl had been killed by the bus. Then the police arrived , made a lot of noise and I decided to move on. Perhaps it was a mistake to stop I reflected later, but then it is always your first reaction as you might be able to help.

Entering Nicaragua was a little more complex. I did not get stamped out of Honduras but the Nicaraguan border guard didn’t worry , just directed me to the line where I paid $12 entry fee, got my passport stamped , then got a 30 day customs entry for the bike and I was on my way.

It was now getting late in the day and with the haze from the burning of the sugar cane field, darkness came quicker than I expected. I had one cardinal rule : don’t ride at night but as it was only 30 km to Leon I decided to push on.

My diary entry later that night recounts a constant rush of big trucks, unlit bikes, wandering pedestrians, dogs and cows. It was a nightmare that lasted over an hour and a lesson learned and reinforced.

I got a nice hotel room in Leon , treated myself to a few cold Tona s and slept for nine hours. The little Suzuki has travelled nearly 400km that day and my body was feeling it.

Leon is a pleasant city, with some interesting architecture and a well supported tourist infrastructure. Christmas shopping was in full swing , but it was a city and well cities are just cities no matter how graceful and accommodating they are.

Las Penitas

Twenty km to the east of Leon is Las Penitas. It had a good reputation as a surf beach and I was not disappointed. It had a nice break for body surfing , a few bars to watch the sun set over a and I got a good room at a Canadian run Lazy Turtle hotel. Ryan and Val were great hosts and invited me back for Christmas.

However, the beach was a gathering spot for stingrays and in four days I saw four people stung. I helped two people, putting their feet into hot water, cleaning out the wound and insisting they get some shots and antibiotics into them . The pain from the sting comes in waves and by the yells and grimaces is excruciating. The secret to avoiding them is to shuffle when you are in the water. As a precaution I wore boots and fins, but I always had the thought of a wave dumping me on top of one. But then the waves were too good to ignore


San Juan Del Sur

This is the surf capital of Nicaragua. The town itself is a bit of a hotch potch , but the waves north and south were worth travelling for. I spent seven days here, surfing, walking, reading and perfecting my body surfing. I met some fellow body surfers and we travelled up and down the coast on our bikes looking for breaks. Most nights I would get back to my hotel sun burned and stuffed but after a couple of s I came right . Beer- the retirees Red Bull!


Christmas at Las Penitas

It must be a tradition that every Nicaraguan goes to the beach on Christmas Day, drinks to excess, then goes for a swim. Despite the best efforts of the lifeguards and the Red Cross, there were numerous drunken people pulled from the surf and one 20 year male drowned after drinking then swimming. Despite the throng, the crowd were good natured although I would hate to be on the road on the drive back to the city.


Granada

I left Las Penitas on Boxing day and headed back to San Juan , spent two days surfing there and then headed for Granada. This is a lovely town, with pastel coloured buildings, good restaurants, nice lakeside bars and a lovely Irish pub for some well deserved comfort food. As towns go it is the prettiest I have seen on my Central American travels so far. American adventurer, William Walker set fire to it in the mid 1860’s but it was rebuilt it over the following 20 years .

Popoyo

This is a spectacular beach, reached by a torturous 30 km dirt road. I spent New Years Eve, watching the fireworks, having a few s and a pizza and talking about home with Morrie , a dreadlocked kiwi who was the local surf instructor and a member of the same surf club . He is making a living teaching surfing, running a makeshift taxi service and doing other odd jobs. He is in no hurry to return back home and with his lifestyle it is easy to understand why.

I liked Nicaragua. The people I met were open and friendly, the costs minimal, the drivers and roads by and large good and the towns of Leon and Granada safe and interesting. However, my 30 day bike visa was nearing its end and I needed to head south to Costa Rica.

Safe riding

REFLECTIONS

My trip in Central America is nearly over. I just have a little over 300km to ride from El Tunco back to Guatemala City via Antigua.

In three months , the Suzuki 125 and I travelled 6000km through five countries - Guatemala, Honduras, El Salvador, Nicaragua and Costa Rica and the only problems were self inflicted when I fell off the bike and broke the clutch lever and the gear shift. I bodged a fix and a local mechanic made a permanent job. Cost $10. I serviced the bike twice and the cost was $10 a time including filters, oil and spark plug.

When I first suggested this trip there were sharp intakes of breath from friends and family and I read about horror border crossing stories. I never felt unsafe. My border crossings, even with minimal Spanish , were simple and straightforward, the staff professional and helpful. The only propina I paid was $2 to get my stamp during the Honduran lunch break saving me a couple of hours. I got stopped several times by Police and Army roadblocks but there was never any hint of a fine or shakedown in sharp contrast to my experiences in the Ukraine and Eastern Europe.

I often wonder if my 60 plus age gives me an advantage.

Road behaviour was good. Cars and trucks gave me a wide passing berth. I rode at dusk once and that was lesson enough. Sure the roads were a little basic in places, but the bike handled them well.

Accommodation was plentiful and spending between $10 and $20 a night got me a clean private room with facilities and often breakfast. You can do it cheaper, but after a day in the water or on the bike, a cold , shower and a quiet room are to me worth the extra dosh.

The bike was comfortable and I am 6ft 2in and weigh 95kg (210lb). I could handle 300km in a day no problems. I wore kevlar bike jeans,hiking boots and a semi mesh riding jacket. I would stop every hour and drink. I started off with a camelbak but lost it early in the trip. I could cruise at 60/70kph - around 5500rpm, fuel consumption was 40kpl so a normal day's ride cost less than $5 in fuel.

I often shared lodgings with backpackers and they seemed forever rushing to meet bus schedules. I rode mostly in the morning , took some paths less travelled , avoided the need to wait for shuttles to a good surf beach and I seemed to get through borders quicker.

I now head back to Europe, to pick up my motorhome and head for Austria for some skiing . My wife and I will then continue travelling through Europe and head back to NZ in October.

I have a desire to ride my V strom from UK to NZ in 2015. The initial response from the Pakistani and Iranian embassies has been positive and Myanmar now looks possible to transit. So a plan is taking place. Any advice or tips would be gratefully received. I also plan to do South America but that is further down the line.

For me, my journey through Central America on a little local bike met all and often exceeded my expectations. I felt safe, secure and had a sense of independence from the freedom the little Suzuki gave me.

It was a trip worth making

Ride Safe

Peter

Hi Peter, a super big well done. Read yer report am kinda planning a trip out that way hopefully next year So am reading up on riders reports. Overland to NZ on the wee strom sounds also good. If you get it together post an account. Enjoy the snow in Austria, according to the weather there seems to be a lot of it in certain places .... have fun Vince

Hi

Many thanks , Really enjoyed the ride

Hope you get it together for 2015 travels

Peter

Great summation of your trip Peter. Really good insights into Nica ... where few over landers seem to spend much time. (including me) I had no idea there were Surfing beaches there ... now you've peaked my interest as a fellow body Surfer! (at 65 my board Surfing is ROUGH ... but somehow I can still body surf OK without killing myself)

Sting Rays ! Thanks for the heads up ... l learned the "shuffle" technique years ago in Mexico.

You're lucky to have means (and good health) to continue traveling. I look forward to hearing about your Vstrom UK to NZ ride. I'm guessing you keep your V-strom in England?

If you manage to get back to the Southern hemisphere, you could buy a nice Honda CB125 (or numerous other bikes) in Santiago, Chile and ride on from there.

All the best, thanks for sharing your travels!

Hi Mollydog

Thanks for this. I no longer board surf also as I am not flexible enough to jump up quick enough. I have now got an inflatable SUP and I use a hand plane and fins for body surfing. makes it easier. and carry on the bike. I find it keeps me fit although a little waterlogged. Still loved being tumbled in the whitewater

Can only put my health down to good genes- my folks both alive and independent at 89. Also don't drink spirits just and wine and have never smoked so I think that helps.

Yes my V strom is in UK - but it will need a fettle as it has been stored for 18 months.

South America - but not deep South is on the list and I like the Honda 300 - seems a nice compromise.

Ride safe

Peter