Day 47: TAT day 20: Ketchum ID to Jordan Valley OR - proving new route.

Mileage today: 268 miles


There are very few times I have felt sick to my stomach.

Even lying on my back in the Atacama desert with a shattered tib & fib, waiting for the helicopter while counting out just how many hundreds of euros it had cost me per mile to race the first five days of Dakar 2011 (I put a conservative estimate on about €100 per kilometer if anyone is interested) did I ever feel as distraught as I did at that moment sitting in Brandie's restaurant, waiting for my breakfast, and fearing I had just hard-reset my Garmin Montana and wiped not only the past six week’s worth of track logs, but all the waypoints, and fundamentally, the remaining Nevada and Oregon TAT route that would be required to finish the ride.

Thinking it would be a good idea to clean the screen with a damp napkin, I must have pressed some corner of the screen at the same time as turning it on, and while I was sure I'’d pressed ‘cancel’ when prompted, the device rebooted back to factory settings with the message ‘'all user data cleared’'. Panic was not the word. To make matters worse, in my desperation I must have selected the wrong language too - as everything was now in Danish or something?! - fortunately the symbol style menu and my familiarity with the machine meant I was able to get it back to English at least, and ultimately found that while the basic settings had all reverted to standard, fortunately my waypoints and tracks were still in the memory after all - thank goodness!

I really don'’t even remember eating in-between spending the next 40 minutes reprogramming everything so that it was effectively back to the way things were the day before - and so sought solice in a Starbucks once I’'d arrived back in Ketchum, prior to embarking on my proving trip through the current ‘no-man's-land’ that Sam Correro had yet to incorporate into the new TAT route.


photo. Ketchum is so damn trendy, that even the Starbucks’ walls are made of perfectly stacked logs!

Rather than simply follow a pre-existing route in my GPS and make notes as and when something caught my eye, today I was mindful to make far more detailed observations and distance measurements (for example) that I could pass on to Sam to help him ultimately join up the new Idaho TAT sections with the remaining route.*

*Note. I had taken the decision to prove a route from Ketchum west and south west, to ultimately join up with the existing TAT route through Northern Nevada and into Oregon - particularly as those sections are both some of the most technically interesting and scenic, and of course well established and proven. However, I understand that longer-term, Sam intends to prove an alternative route directly west into Oregon and bypassing Nevada all together…. Personally, I feel it would be a shame to miss out on what is arguably some of the best sections of the current TAT - but then these trails are not going away anytime soon, and they remain as an option of course.


photo. This is an obvious refuel (even if it’s hard to see the pumps themselves ;o) as you turn off the main highway in Ketchum onto Warm Springs Road - before heading off into the mountains again.



The route west here follows a primary trail/forest road (NF227) that runs alongside a creek for many miles into the mountains, before reaching a small town (with food and camping, but no fuel that I could see): Featherville, around 84 miles later.



This was perhaps the nicest trail I'’d ridden in Idaho so far - a good hard-pack surface, winding it’s way alongside a picturesque creek, followed by a lovely switchback climb up and over a modest mountain pass - surrounded by a stunning backdrop of craggy peaks and lush forests. Coupled with the cooling breeze and scent of freshly cut pine trees, this ride was soul-soothing. There were also plenty of opportunities for camping all along the valley - perfect TAT material!


On reaching Featherville, I elected to try a route north and west out of town, via a high pass along the ridge of Trinity Mountain - as I felt this would be a particularly spectacular way to head ultimately south towards the town of Mountain Home (an obvious refuel, food and hotel stop should that be required).

Out of the corner of my eye I saw a sign saying the Lake road was closed due to snow, but figured it was either talking about a different section, or that the sign just hadn’'t been removed - there certainly didn'’t seem to be any snow on this balmy day at the end of June.

Approximately 40 minutes later I was faced with a locked gate. Damn it, this is the road they meant after all. However, it had appeared some ATVs had picked their way around the gate and logs on either side, so I figured that someone had just not opened the gate this week (it was a Friday, and I'’m sure they'’d be opening for the weekend…, right?) so promptly skirted this barrier and continued on.

Three miles further and my heart sank. Inevitably three seconds later the Ranger flicked on the blue lights on the roof of the truck, and I knew I was in trouble.

I explained [honestly] that I'’d presumed the gates just hadn'’t been opened prior to the weekend, and had followed the other vehicle’s trails (that'’s no real defence I know), but it turns out that this wasn’t just a snow gate, but that the road itself has a seasonal closure and didn'’t actually open for another two weeks (15th of July).

Fortunately my contrition coupled with a UK driving licence - and recalling my previous experience with the CHP with regard to a speeding ticket, knew to avoid their subtile passive-aggressive line of questioning about how long I might be remaining in the country - I managed to avoid what otherwise would have been a nasty ticket and a serious fine.



Hell, the guys even gave me an OHV map and suggested a nice alternative route south before I followed them rather sheepishly back down the trail and was let out of the gate - God bless the Parks Service!


Reboot

Unfortunately, this intervention meant I had effectively wasted more than an hour and a half, and once I returned to Featherville for another cold drink, elected to plot an alternative exit that had essentially been suggested by the Rangers. I have to say, it really didn'’t disappoint - and felt it was a more than acceptable inclusion to the TAT - with a fast and flowing gravel road that skirted the beautiful Anderson Ranch Reservoir:



Again, with plenty of opportunities for camping along the shore, together with a suitable fuel/food/camping/motel spot: the town of Pine at the head of the valley.


photo. My route crossed the dam at the foot of the Anderson Ranch Reservoir, before winding it’s way up a steep dirt road to join the highway….

Endeavouring to ride as much dirt between there and Mountain Home (without being too convoluted of course), I included a couple of nice trails away from the highway that included part of the long distance Oregon Trail emigrant route, and ultimately led right into town past gas, food and lodging - good job Jenny!




A day of two halves...

It was now 4.30pm... too early to stop really, but would I have enough daylight to reach my ultimate destination of Jordan Valley - the only place that was anywhere near my intended route south west, that ought to have fuel, and hopefully some sort of accommodation?

Certainly this next sector was likely to be very remote - more than a hundred miles of desert, although the plan was to stay on established dirt roads at least...


photo. It's got a road sign, I mean, how tough can it be, right?

Fortunately, other than a slight backtrack to avoid a private ranch, my GPS led me on a fantastic 'shortest route' across the desert, that incorporated the wonderful "Antelope Ridge Road":



A little-used single-lane trail, with some tasty wash-outs, marred only perhaps by rather too many wire-fence gates... but still more than worthy of a TA500 sticker ;o)

As the evening drew on, the gravel roads grew wider and faster, offering the opportunity to witness some stunning scenery in the fading light...







It had been a long day - more than 12 hours in the saddle, and the vast majority of the riding on unpaved and off-road.

I rolled into Jorden Valley hoping the "Sahara" motel listed in my GPS would be as romantic as the name suggests:



It wasn't.

It wasn't even open, and clearly hadn't been for some time.

Indeed it appeared there was only one other establishment in town, that also doubled as a gas station (thank goodness) - and I admit I did have second thoughts when I first saw the frontage:



But actually I have to say, it was very comfortable inside (the windows were on the other side ;o), although once again, wifi was unavailable so any online reporting was going to have to take a back seat for another day. But hell, after these past couple of looooong days, I was grateful for the opportunity to enjoy a shower and a decent sleep.

More soon!

Jenny xx

Day 48: TAT day 21: Jordan Valley OR to Lakeview OR.

Mileage today: 281miles*.

*(129 miles proving, 77 miles TAT, 75 miles to fuel and hotel).


With no internet to distract me, I was up and away early the following morning, after a very tasty breakfast sandwich (double sausage, double egg!) and hash browns at what appeared to be the only restaurant in town... and that somewhat bizarrely also offers windscreen repairs, albeit on an adjacent site.


photo. I love these old signs, especially when the establishment is still actually open!

What with the doubling up of the gas station/motel combo too, it seems there really isn't anything this small town can't do to keep you on the road - a real little oasis in the desert!

Over the past couple of days proving, I had essentially entered a series of waypoints into the GPS in the general direction I'd wanted to follow, and let the 'shortest route' calculate what I'd hoped would be a through route - it's a procedure I have relied on many times in the past, and on the whole, Garmin doesn't disappoint.

Today was likely to be yet another 300+ miles (if I were to make it to my intended, if slightly ambitious, stop-over in Lakeview OR), and in anticipation of some slightly more technical riding once I reached northern Nevada (and picked up the original TAT route), had initially been content with a morning shelp down hwy 95 to keep me on some sort of schedule.

However, zooming into the GPS maps revealed a series of dirt roads almost immediately out of town, that would effectively shadow the main highway south and west, but ought to be far less monotonous... and as it transpired, actually threw up some utter gems en route!



I soon realised that I'd stumbled on the old ION highway (I.O.N being Idaho, Oregon, Nevada) - an historical trade route that clearly was never much of a 'highway' as such - with often the only indication there was still a trail at all being a pile of rocks stacked to one side or a cutting through the scrubland, and punctuated by the odd gate (usually wire) to show it was once a road:



West of Arock (barely a town, but it did have a post office!) the trail essentially disappearing into pasture:



...thank goodness for GPS to keep you on target for the next random gate:


photo. I see the Oregon farmers use the same hinge supplier as the Welsh do...



Eventually the trail rejoined a series of slightly more established dirt roads, and crossed over hwy 95, before continuing on the old ION highway route that cut through the desert.


photo. honestly, the trail runs just to the left of this water trough!


I had ridden nearly seventy miles already on all but abandoned trails this morning, before crossing the paved highway once again and picking up the wide and fast gravel Whitehorse Ranch Lane that would essentially take me all the way to Denio Junction where I could possibly* refuel, before rejoining the official TAT route that runs through the remainder of Nevada.

*It was a slim chance I know based on recent TAT reports, but I wasn't unduly concerned as I had only covered 129 miles since refuelling that morning (and the CB500X has at least a 250 mile range), and was confident I could break for the highway (140) at some point during the afternoon, to splash-n-dash somewhere before rejoining the TAT en route for Lakeview...


Fire in the disco!

Pausing at a track junction to plot the final approach to Denio, I noticed a faint burning smell that seemed to have been following me for a while now...



Closer inspection revealed that my effectively off-piste navigation this morning had resulted in an amount of grass and seeds collecting around the exhaust catalyst, and that after this prolonged high-speed run along the gravel, had started to smoulder rather alarmingly!

With visions of Paulo Goncalves in Dakar 2014 fresh in my mind (where his HRC Honda Rally bike caught fire in similar circumstances due to combustable debris collecting around the exhaust headers) I swiftly loosened the bash plate fixings, allowing me to pivot it down and clear the offending cinders before any further damage occurred...


photo. Yep, that could have been a close call!


photo. The final approach to the Fields-Denio Road (hwy 205) just north of Denio itself.


Denio - denied!

Rolling into Denio Junction itself (blink and you might miss it), it was about that time that breakfast wore off, so I stopped at the store/restaurant (and small 8 room motel that is part of the complex*) for some sustenance...

* A somewhat generous term perhaps, but for want of a suitable alternative...



... and despite the presence of a pair of pumps, sure enough, fuel had not been available for quite a while now.


For information: the Denio Junction site has recently been taken over by new owners - and they have every intention to get fuel back there as soon as they possibly can, and re-open the restaurant too. For the moment however, there is just the motel and the general store/bar, that really only offers cold drinks and ready meals - still, any port in a storm eh?

Therefore, if you do require fuel either immediately, or to top-up in regard to the onward and very remote journey (at this point Lakeview is still 115 miles away, and that is by road - the TAT route is appreciably further still), then Fields which is approximately 25 miles to the north of here is currently your only option... so my suggestion for any subsequent TATers, would be to continue on the Whitehorse Ranch Road all the way to where it meets hwy 205, and juice up there before heading south to Denio.


Anyway, I intended to trust to luck and my optimistic fuel gauge, and crack-on with what is arguably the 'best' section of the current Trans-Am Trail - the remote wilderness crossing west of Denio.


photo. Back on the the most remote section of the TAT with what was barely half a tank of gas... what could possibly go wrong?


photo. A beautiful (and moderately technical, in a downhill direction) pass a short while after leaving the highway behind... this is what we'd come all this way for Piglet!


photo. The afternoon would be filled with a lot of this - lovely little-used two-track across the desert...


photo. Plenty of this - rocky and rough climbs crossing ranges of mountains, and a real sense of travelling across country...


photo. Stunning panoramic views both ahead and behind you... and an overwhelming sense of being, alone.


The TAT route essentially passes through the huge wilderness that is the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge - over 900 square miles of high desert that is managed habitat for all manner of horny and thorny creatures.

I was really enjoying the afternoon's ride - climb after climb (some quite technical for a big or loaded bike), winding my way though the mountains, witnessing antelope, burros and even some wild horses. There was potentially show-stopping creek crossing near the historic Virgin Valley Ranch (through the ominously named 'Mud Creek' no less, that had burst it's banks onto the trail itself), followed by some more epic trailage as the route switchbacked over more mountains...

Then without warning, I was on my arse. And perhaps more disconcertingly, the bike was on my leg:



It was one of those stupid crashes - and I admit that unlike the other times the bike had been down during this trip (precious few, thankfully), this was not 'a drop' or 'laying it down' - this was a full-on proper caught-me-before-I-even-had-a-chance-of-saving-it, crash.

The rear wheel had caught a protruding rock and it had kicked up and hooked the whole bike sideways - essentially low-siding me down the trail. Fortunately I was only travelling at about 20-25mph at the time, but even though, I imagined I was lucky not to have hurt myself - especially when the whole weight of the bike landed on my left leg and foot.

Of course my immediate reaction (other than to wiggle my toes and flex my ankle to ensure nothing was broken) was to grab the camera from my jacket pocket and take the above photo, as I know you guys would want to see it ;o)

It was only then that I became a little concerned that I might not be able to wiggle my leg free as my boot was comprehensively hooked up on the pillion peg bracket, and sandwiched between the bike and the hard rocky trail.

With all the incentive of Piglet about to grab the Leatherman and go all 127 hours on me, I eventually managed to lift the bike by kicking the seat with my free foot, and then by dragging my trapped foot back and forth until I could pull free - grateful that the Giant Loop bag had actually taken some of the brunt of the initial fall, rather than my leg being potentially crushed by the full weight of the bike, and provided a valuable gap to help wiggle free. Phew.



I was also thankful that I had not been able to fuel up at Denio, as this bike with a full tank would not only have potentially caused more serious damage to my leg/foot, but it would be an even bigger bastard to lift back upright - as it was, adrenalin soon had the CB righted. A quick inspection and I was amazed how well the bike had crashed - sure the left hand-guard had rotated slightly, and the tip of the gear lever also bent back a few degrees - but fundamentally there was no damage to the bodywork, nor turn signals, and the [OEM] handlebars remained as straight as ever. Good job Honda!

I have to admit, the tubular wings of the Rally-Raid engine guard had taken a beating in this particular instance, but then that is what they are there for, and fundamentally there was no damage to the engine cases - which is the primary importance of course. Had this little episode not been enough to prove the strength of the engine guard, as I was using my tyre iron to lever the bent gear shifter back into line, I heaved a little too heavy, and since the bike was standing almost vertically upright on the uneven trail, it promptly fell over onto the other side. Bugger... that is both hand-guards scratched now. During all this reinstatement and realignment, I also noticed that there was a tiny weep from the lower radiator hose near the gear lever, so in true MacGyver fashion, effected a repair using my air-mattress puncture patches and some duct tape. It worked!


The great escape...

Of course now it was getting late in the afternoon, and once the fuel light started flashing at around 220 miles (experience had taught me this still means there is around a gallon left in the tank, but whether all of that finds it's way into the fuel pump is another matter of course), I realised that there was no way I would make it to Lakeview this evening - not off-road at least, since there was still at least 85 miles of TAT route to ride.

I took the decision to break for the highway at a suitable point once the TAT route got close (about 7 miles away) from hwy 140 - figuring I could return and continue once I'd refuelled.



My 'escape trail' while not part of the official TAT, was more of the same, and would have been immensely satisfying had I not be so concerned about my remaining fuel now!

Rather than the wide gravel road I'd been expecting, my route out was another narrow and little-used two-track trail, which I rode at barely tick-over in an effort to save fuel. Once I hit the highway, I realised there was still 35 miles to go to the nearest town that purportedly had fuel - Adel - and rather than enjoy the magnificent highway that wound it's way down a sheer bluff cliff face at speed, I rode like a lemon at 50mph hunkered down over the tank in an effort to reduce wind-resistance (and boy, it was windy), all the while wondering if a) I would actually have enough range in these conditions, and b) if the gas station would actually be open when and if I managed to get there.

It was a painfully long journey - the road seemed endless and I was sure my odometer was on some kind of go-slow... I eventually rolled into a haphazard collection of tumbledown buildings, which you wouldn't even consider was a town were it not for a sign announcing your entry, and thankfully, there on the far edge of town was a ramshackle store with a brace of pumps outside.


Once I'd refuelled (4.1 gallons, so technically I still had almost half a gallon left) and guzzled my own gallon of Pepsi, I figured that 7pm was too late to head back to the trail this evening, particularly as I didn't really relish the prospect of wild camping after such a long and arduous day.


photo. I'd busted my arse enough already today, so elected to find a comfy bed, and continue the TAT in the morning. note. RRP power bracket also doubles as an excellent cup holder!

I wimped out with another 35 miles of highway (but boy, what a great highway 140 is to ride!) all the way to Lakeview, where I knew there was plenty of accommodation options, food, and as it transpired - a super duper coffee stand - just what I needed! The TAT could wait until tomorrow...

...to be continued.

Jenny xx

Day 49: TAT day 22: Lakeview OR and back to Lakeview OR.

Mileage today: 174*

*(103 miles TAT, 71 miles to return to where I'd left off...)

Lakeview Oregon is one of those 'full service' towns (that is one offering an range of food, fuel, accommodation and various mechanical / workshop / bike shop facilities if required) that happens to be right on the TAT route. It also happens to have an outstanding coffee (and fruit smoothie) hut on an otherwise abandoned lot opposite the Chevron gas station - something I was unfortunately not aware of until tomorrow's ride report...

So having woken early (and I mean bloody early, like before 5am thanks to not switching my phone ringer off and a text coming in from the UK), I grabbed a modestly sized but exquisitely prepared portion of French toast, washed down with a rather lacklustre brew coffee, and set about my business of the day.

Since my intention has been to ride the TAT in its entirety wherever possible, the plan was to retrace my extended road-ride from yesterday, and pick up the trail where I'd left off in the middle of the Sheldon Wildlife Preserve - to complete the official route into Lakeview, even though it would mean I would find myself back in this same spot at some point later that day.

In fact in order to set the scene a little I ought to add that prior to breakfast, I'd checked out of the hotel, and immediately embarked on the journey back east via what looked like a tasty trail out of town - and due to my still groggy state, almost came a cropper in some deep tractor ruts that had hardened in the muddy surface. To compound my agitation, right at the end of this trail was a locked gate onto private property. I therefore felt on balance, the day would probably be much better after a decent breakfast, rather than grabbing something at the gas station/diner in Adel which had been my original intention...

On returning to Adel* I topped off with fuel (having already covered more than 70 miles since I was here the evening before), and ducked into the store to stock up on trail snacks. A couple at the bar overheard my accent and it turns out that he [Allan] had moved here from Yorkshire (UK) a few years ago, and with his wife Barbara set up a cabin and camping facility: hartmountaincabin.com just a few miles north from here. I mention this specifically as useful information for anyone else intending to ride the TAT through here and would prefer not to wild camp (although I would add that there are dedicated primitive camping sites in the Sheldon Wildlife Refuge should you have enough fuel with you to stay on the trail) - as it ought to be feasible to stay on the TAT until the signposted turn-off north for Adel; and to ultimately fuel, feed and slumber without taking quite as long a detour as I had done.

*please note I have purposely avoided making such obvious Adel[e] jokes as: "Chasing pavements" back to Adel, or "Adel was '21' miles away, or, "Rumour has it" that there was fuel in Adel... or that the CB was so fast that despite the damp roads I "Set fire to the rain" etc. etc. and apologise now for not being able to resist adding them after all.

So, back on the TAT (via a slightly different trail south of hwy 140, that was perhaps even more impressive than my escape route the evening before), and after riding just a few miles from where I'd exited yesterday, realised I was now riding the exact same sector I had (albeit in reverse) back in 2008.

Sure enough, these sights were instantly familiar (I will resist posting the original photos from 2008, but believe me they are almost exactly the same ;o)


photo. I am almost embarrassed to post this one, as I'm sure everyone takes the same photo who passes by here...


photo. Similarly, the switchback decent as you exit the Sheldon Refuge is instantly memorable - what a view!


photo. I also have exactly the same photo of Piglet hanging over this sign, although since it was November last time, he was in slightly warmer clothes back then... same pattern Buff mind you!

Indeed, riding this sector of the TAT towards Fort Bidwell (where it dips, momentarily, into California for a few miles) felt eerily familiar, despite the years...


photo. This dry lake crossing is just after you pass through an abandoned (or not?) farmstead...

Before climbing out of the valley and into the forest south of Lakeview:





Whether it was the familiarity, or simply the amassed tiredness (compounded by the lack of sleep the night before), I increasingly felt detached from the whole procedure - like it was some strange dream sequence - and worse, almost as if I was going through the motions for the first time on this trip. Hell, I even recognised a clearing in the trees that had been filled with snow the very first time I'd ridden in Oregon (on my XR650R in 2007, when I'd also passed through this way, not knowing it was actually the TAT back then...) and on reaching Lakeview mid-afternoon, scoffed down a burger and shake at the local drive-in, and thought the best course of action was to probably book back into the motel again, and get a proper night's sleep.

My head hit the pillow at 4pm, and it was the best night's rest I'd had in a long time.

More soon!

Jenny x

Day 50: TAT day 23: Lakeview OR to Crater Lake OR.

Mileage today:325* (TAT 239)

*total to hotel - including lap of Crater Lake.


Today marked my 50th day on the road since leaving the Golden Gate Bridge on Sunday 10th May - the official start of the Trans-Am 500 ride (even though I'd actually ridden over 500 miles from the Giant Loop HQ in Bend OR to get to that point the day before of course).

I have to say, 14 hours sleep had really reset my body clock, and I was all packed, checked out and raring to go before 8am. It was at this point that I stumbled on the oasis that was the Fastbreak coffee hut, and spent a delightfully extended pause for breakfast on this sunny Monday morning, sitting on a picnic bench on their lot, and plotting the final few days' schedule...


photo. I can certainly recommend their wildberry and protein smoothie, oh yes!

Looking at the overview route in my GPS, the current TAT appeared to be very similar to the route I'd ridden (albeit in reverse as I'd started on the coast) back in 2008 - so it would be interesting to see if there had been any [minor] changes, or that like yesterday, things would appear instantly familiar...

One thing was certain however, while it might only have been three hundred and fifty or so miles (by road) to the coast now, it would be totally unrealistic to expect I would finish the TAT by this evening (having already overshot my original target of yesterday, the 28th June).

Therefore with the pressure essentially off now, it was time to recalibrate my expectations for the final few day/s, and simply enjoy the rest of the ride... Indeed, there was a nagging sense of sadness in that this trip was almost over, and that the routine in which Piglet and I had become ensconced, would be rudely returned to the real world.

The ride out of Lakeview takes in such delights as the Warner Creek Correctional Facility (a very 'open' prison by the look of it), before heading into some delightful forest trails that were a joy to ride:


photo. Once again I marked what I felt was a particularly enjoyable trail as a recommendation to others...

...and on reaching Silverlake (I'm sure this place used to have fuel?) crossing hwy 31, knew I wasn't far from the impressive Fort Rock (yes, it's a rock, shaped like a fort... and a bloody big one!)


photo. indeed!

However, while I can vividly remember riding past here on a previous trip, I couldn't recall passing the rock when I'd ridden the older TAT route in 2008 - and sure enough, the current route actually turns due west a few miles short of this impressive vista - so I've included a couple of photos from 2007 to show you what you're missing ;o)





Again, I will come to Sam's defence here and suggest that you can't possibly incorporate everything into a single cross-country journey, and that arguably the trail that heads west is far more 'interesting' than an otherwise endlessly straight gravel road that takes you past Fort Rock.

Furthermore, in this instance particularly, you really aren't that far from the site - so you could always detour and rejoin the TAT a little further on... and this very much illustrates the primary purpose of the TAT, which is not to insisit that you follow it exactly inch by inch (something that this trip, or at least the weather this trip, has proved is all but impossible), rather you ought to view it as guide - that not only incorporates some excellent and often little-visited points of interest, but also sets you up nicely for your own additions should you desire?

Certainly the ride through the heart of the Deschutes National Forest towards Gilchrist was hugely enjoyable - albeit often sandy - and I was looking forward to some lunch before refuelling and pressing on towards my own intended side-show from the main TAT route, the epic Crater Lake.


Missing in action...

A trio of chicken tenders, a bucket of coke, and a huge ice-cream may not be the food of champions, but it certainly sorted out my grumbling tummy. However, on returning to my bike (that had been parked outside the restaurant just out of view) I was dismayed to see my tail-pack was now missing...

My immediate reaction (being British) was that some bastard had stolen my tail-pack, which, as you are probably aware from earlier reports contained ALL my tools - yes, every single one - I didn't even have my Leatherman or 5mm allen key on me should I need to make any minor adjustments, never mind a major repair.

Incredulous that they had not bothered to take my $400 helmet (that was sitting on the tank between the handlebars) nor indeed the Garmin VIRB camera that was attached to a RAM mount next to my left mirror - either of which would have been far easier to lift in an instant - I soon realised that not only was the tail-pack missing, but also half the rack that had supported it over the last 11,500 miles or so...

I took back those initial curses when I realised that the rack itself had seemingly sheared where it mounted to the subframe brackets (well, unless some oaf had simply wrenched the whole thing off of course), and figured that actually I'd not noticed it was already missing when I'd dismounted and gone inside - a hungry belly and the lure of fried chicken and ice-cream my excuse for this lack of rudimentary observation of course - and that should I retrace my steps, that somewhere, back down the trail, I would find the remains at least, of my chattels...

Having made a minor adjustment earlier while out on the trail, I knew the last time I was certain I'd had the tail-pack attached... so retraced the GPS track-log back into the forest, hoping that some 'helpful' passer-by had not actually moved it* to the side of the trial (where it would be more difficult to spot of course), or worse, taken it upon themselves to move the bag completely - into town for example.

*I mention this specifically as a reminder for anyone else who trail-rides regularly - by all means move an item out of harms way (for example, in the past I've found a camera in a pouch in the middle of a trail - that would almost certainly be destroyed should another vehicle run over it), but please leave it in a really obvious position, as almost certainly the owner is likely to come back to look for it, especially if it is an expensive or essential item - of which my tool kit was certainly both!


photo. Fortunately this little-used trail meant my pack was exactly where it had fallen.

The sense of relief was immense I can tell you, everything was intact (well, apart from the broken tail-rack of course), and I was doubly grateful that I had not cut short the straps on my Giant Loop Coyote bag, and that I could effect a satisfactory solution that would allow me to continue without fear that I'd lose the bag again:





Crater Lake

The TAT route actually skirts north and west of Crater Lake by about 15 miles. However, it is well worth the detour, especially in late afternoon as the scenery is simply spectacular in the early evening light.


photo. You really think this need not be said, but when you stand on the rim (which is anything from 500 to nearly 2000ft above the water), you kind of see what they mean...


photo. I have a similar photo of Piglet on the XR650R from 2007 here - taken a little earlier on a perfectly calm day - when the lake is like a mirror and reflects the surrounding peaks perfectly - it is a surreal optical illusion to effectively see the sky below the mountains!


photo. The little fella loves this lake, as do I... Here you can just see Wizard island, which is a volcanic cone protruding from the depths of the lake (the lake is nearly 2000 ft deep, and is the crater left by a collapsed volcano), and there is another smaller cone under the water, that is actually 1500 ft below the lake surface!

My original plan was to ride the rim road, then head down to the campground in the valley below, as there are very few affordable options for accommodation close by.




photo. Piglet got to ride in the front of the jacket like old times, for the lap of the lake...


photo. Although I have been here twice before, this was the first time I'd ridden completely around the lake - and the alternative views can be breathtaking...



And as the evening drew on, I figured there might be an opportunity to get one last photo at the rim edge as the sun went down:


photo. Perfect timing! - as the photographer who was sitting close by confirmed by giving me a thumbs-up when he saw me scoot into position for this photo!

It was such a perfect evening, that I decided to forfeit the campsite, make the most of the fading light, and take a few more photos before ultimately heading down the highway to find a motel...








More soon!

Jenny xx

Day 51: TAT day 24: Crater Lake OR to Glendale OR.

Mileage today: 239* (TAT 178)

*in total to hotel in Grants Pass.


Despite riding well over 300 miles yesterday (including my indulgence around Crater Lake of course), I was still over 200 miles from the coast, by the shortest route on road...

Of course I was looking forward to another day (at least) on the forest trails, but at the same time, I was so tantalisingly close to the end that I was getting impatient - particularly as I'd been on the road over seven weeks now, with only two full days* not actually riding the bike at some point...

*and this was the weekend of the Overland Expo in Arizona, which were instead long days on my feet, and still talking about the bike!


Funny story before I leave: I checked into the Whispering Pines motel which is at the junction of hwy 97 and 138 (that leads to the Crater Lake north entrance) - a quirky place indeed, but perfectly comfortable and great value. There was wifi access, but it worked better outside the room (and nearer to the office), and the owner said she'd put a citronella candle in the room incase any midges followed me in as I retired...

There was the remains of a tea-light in a jar on the table, but a lovely looking new candle on the nightstand - perfect. I dug out the lighter that was buried in my camping kit, lit the wick, and went into the bathroom to brush my teeth.

Next thing I know, the smoke alarm is screeching the place down, and I dash into the bedroom to see the 'candle' has become a molten mess of goop that is bellowing acrid black smoke! Turns out it was a battery operated night-light which I'd just set fire to...

Having no choice but to pull the battery from the smoke detector (don't worry, I replaced it properly the following morning), I hit the sack, wondering how I might explain my clumsy mistake.

The following morning over a delightful breakfast of freshly home-made muffins (she must have been up all night making these little buns of joy!), I confessed and presented the sorry remains:



She burst into fits of laughter and said "Don't worry, you're not the first..." reached behind the counter and pulled out another where someone had done exactly the same thing! I imagine this will be the start of quite a collection ;o)


The motel reception is shared with a 'general store' - although it is more a museum of retro packaging to be honest - some items clearly of indeterminate age*, interspersed with such delights as Ghirardelli Chocolate Squares that may or may not have been past their sell-by date too (not that I'd care of course!)

This one particularly made me smile:


photo. Every generation gets the superhero it deserves...

*note. the packet of soup above for example, is the owner of a soup kitchen in New York that was featured in an episode of Seinfield - which means that packet is likely to be at least 20 years old!


Anyway, it was almost certainly time to hit the road now, and I rode the twenty odd miles back to where I'd left the TAT the day before - juicing up the CB-X at an independent fuel station near Diamond Lake (again I mention it as fuel is relatively few and far between in these parts).

Almost immediately I was climbing up through a burn zone in the foothills of the Umpqua National Forest:





... enjoying the cooling breeze and the shade of the trees (well, those that still had leaves on of course), and some stunning views across the labyrinth of valleys below:



However, at the same time I was conscious that inevitably, traversing these forest terraces meant you ended up covering a lot more ground than you might otherwise - and indeed, after a rather frustrating detour (due to a closed road), I ended up on the shore of the South Umpqua River having taken four and a half hours to cover the last 110 miles...

To make matters worse (and purely from the point of research you understand), I tapped my start point into the GPS and it 'shortest' routed me on what I'm sure would have been an equally scenic alternative, that even incorporated the initial TAT trail, before following alongside the creek - on what I'd presumed was a continuation of the paved minor road I was now on. That would have saved me over two hours riding this morning, and is certainly something I would suggest to subsequent travellers, should you be wary of your schedule at this point.

Still, I'd come to ride the whole Trans-Am Trail, and I wasn't about to take any short-cuts now!


photo. The shade from the trees (and general altitude) was welcome as the day got hotter...


photo. 'Heavy plant crossing' - I managed to sneak round this minor landslide on the verge...


photo. These stripped-bark trees were particularly stunning in the afternoon sunlight...


Heading back into the forest, Sam then came up with an utter masterpiece of a trail - although I would add it was not really for the faint hearted! Indeed, when we'd discussed those sections where options available (he does offer an alternative 'big bike' route for certain sectors of the TAT, especially here in Oregon), I was adamant that I'd want to prove the CB500X Adventure could handle the tougher 'dual-sport' routes he had logged...

And this climb was a killer - it started off as a rough ATV width climb through the trees, before emerging on an open ridge line that seemed to get more and more gnarly as it climbed ever upwards. On a big bike loaded with luggage, it would take all your concentration and resolve - as one over enthusastic twitch of the throttle on this loose and rocky surface could easily have the bike sideways - or worse, on it's side - which would be extremely difficult to recover from and keep going - you'd be far more likely to have no option but to turn around (which itself could cause all manner of difficulty on this steep slope), ride back down to the plateau, and have another go - if you dared.

Fortunately, I had already come to trust the utterly predictable fuelling and traction of the CB-X implicitly - where time and again (especially in the technical terrain I'd traversed in Moab) it had literally saved me from either a stall or fall, and I simply snicked it into first gear, held a steady throttle and rode it like an automatic - letting the supple TracTive suspension once again prove it's worth many times over as I clawed up this climb.

Just when I though the worse was over, the trail turned hard right and climbed straight up the fall-line - criss-crossed with a myriad of gullies caused by rain run-off. Jeeeez, I honestly could not believe how I made it up there! - and reaching the top, marked my GPS with an expletive, and the trail itself with a TA500 sticker on a suitably placed rock:



Seriously, send me a photo of your 1200GS next to this rock, and I'll personally send you a prize!

I took a moment or two to chow a Clif bar, and simply take in the stunning view that was reward for all this effort. I also considered just how perfect the CB had been over the last couple of miles: anything physically larger would have been a real liability (unless you're 6' 6" and an utter riding god of course); while a typical big-bore thumper, for all their comparative lightweight and manoeuvrability, are prone to cough-stalling in such circumstances if you are not careful. In comparison, the low seat, supple suspension and sweet soft power delivery that are key attributes of this bike were an absolute revelation - and allow you to take such liberties and get away with it, first and so far, every time.

Later that afternoon, as the TAT route reached interstate I5, I decided that rather than press-on into more wilderness where I would almost certainly have to wild camp somewhere out on the trail (don't forget there are bears in these woods!), I would dive into Glendale and see what accommodation options were available locally or at least close by - figuring this way I would have the whole of the following day ahead of me to complete the TAT, fundamentally in the daylight. No point in taking risks this close to the end I thought, especially as my laundry was in dire need of refreshment too!

As it turned out, the one and only motel in Glendale had long since closed, while the next option a few miles further south on I5 looked like I might well have made the National Morning News had I stayed there... Ultimately I sought solace in the familiarity of a Motel 6 a further fifteen miles down the highway (in Grants Pass) - well, that is also what this bike is so damn good at after all ;o)

More soon!

Jenny xx

Day 52: TAT day 25: Glendale OR to Port Orford OR.

Mileage today: 454* (TAT 119.5 miles)

*including final liaison to Bend OR that evening.

With a Coyote full of clean undies (these things are important you know!), I hit the road early, planning to stop for breakfast at the delightfully eclectic 'Morningstar Coffee House' in Glendale, where I had already sampled their fine coffee and tasty smoothies the evening before, while deciding where I might stay...


photo. As if you really have to ask?!

Those of you who have been following this tale since at least the Iron-Butt ride east (goodness that seems like a lifetime ago now!), may recall I contemplated a five-shot espresso to celebrate the 500 mile mark, somewhere between Kansas and Missouri...

Well, as chance would have it, on the Morningstar menu was the mighty 'Krakatoa' - that was indeed a quintet of their short sharp and fundamentally strong rich house blend - just what I needed to set me up on this, the final day of the Trans-Am Trail!


photo. That's five straight shots of espresso in a 12oz cup!

The initial ascent out of Glendale was another corker - really, Sam has saved some of the best trails 'til last - although anyone who regularly rides in this part of Oregon will probably tell you, you can't really fail to find some cracking trails in this part of the country.

However, you can find some that are ultimately (or at least currently) closed.


photo. This was on the ridge at the top of a particularly delightful climb - what a way to start your morning!

As I began my descent from the ridge (above), I rounded a corner and there, about fifty yards away was a big-ass brown bear. I mean properly big - he seemed to take up half the width of the trail, and would certainly have been taller than me on his hind legs!

Fortunately he turned on his heels and trotted down the trail in the opposite direction - although of course this was exactly the direction I also wanted to go... I gingerly proceeded, and once I was pretty sure he was out of sight, pressed on around a sharp corner in the trial - and came face to face with a locked gate. A quick look at the GPS showed a number of alternative trails that appeared to ultimately join up with the way I wanted to go - although when I recounted this incident to Lisa later that evening - she laughed and imagined that the bears were dragging all manner of other gates closed too, in an effort to box me in: "Fire up the barbecue mama bear - we've got another live one!"


photo. I tried a number of alternative trails that were in my Garmin TOPO maps installed in my GPS, but all of them petered out or were blocked.

Having spent a good hour or more on dead end trails, I eventually took an alternative route down the mountain and back into Glendale. Resetting my GPS track log for this final leg, the network of surround dirt roads and trails revealed the perfect alternative route through that would join up just a mile or two from where I'd had to turn around anyway.

The dirt emerged onto a minor paved road that ran alongside Middle Creek, and the moment I saw the railroad track I immediately felt I'd been here before:


photo. I have a photo from 2008 of my Tenere in exactly the same spot (facing in the opposite direction of course).

Increasingly the surroundings felt familiar now, and I wound my way west through lush green forests, punctuated by the occasional sign that I'd recalled from those years before:




photo. this trail was ultimately blocked by a much larger fallen tree a little further on - in fact in the gloom it looked like a sleeping stegosaurus!


photo. Giant Loop typically name their luggage products after Oregon's regions and landmarks.

There were a few subtile differences to the route that I remembered from 2008 (and subsequent overlaying of my GPS track logs show where short sections of trail that were once included are now presumably closed?); while one particular sign (that points the way to the Mt. Bolivar hiking trail) that I am almost certain was originally on a dirt trail, is now alongside a paved single-lane road - such is progress.

I also noticed that the original exit to the coast (along China Camp Road) was now clearly marked as 'road closed', and the latest TAT route takes you further north along the ridge before ultimately joining the highway a few miles up the coast from Port Orford.

Almost without warning, the trail was over - and I emerged onto the scenic Elk River Road, and subsequently the Oregon Coast Highway (hwy 101):



A short ride south was all it took to reach the official end of the Trans-Am Trail:



2.39pm on Wednesday 1st July 2015 - the end of the western leg.


photo. The official end point is right here... although I didn't think to go in and ask if they did a souvenir sticker or pin badge or something!

I then rode into the heart of town, and out to the harbour with the aim of getting a suitable shot or two with the ocean in the background:







Pausing briefly to chat with a fellow adventurer (who was in the middle of Kayaking the length of the Pacific Coast from Seattle to San Diego!), there really was nothing else for it now, but to find a suitable spot for a celebratory lunch.

Oh, and of course consider what I might do now?


Denoument

Inevitably if you arrive in Port Orford, on your own, in the middle of the afternoon, on a windswept Wednesday, you can't really expect a great sense of occasion. And I have to say that a rather insipid selection of prawns (at least the fries and the raspberry fruit-pie were good) at the Crazy Norwegians restaurant didn't really give cause for celebration either.

Of course I realised that while the TAT itself was now over, there was still a way to go until the Trans-Am 500 adventure was truly finished. 335 miles to be exact.

I'm sure the majority of people who typically ride the TAT in a pair or more end up drinking the afternoon away and ultimately retiring to a local hotel to sleep it all off... but I suppose I considered this achievement was really only part of the bigger picture (that had not least incorporated the whole ride east too of course), and felt there was still unfinished business that if I were lucky, could be wrapped up this evening after all.

Heading up the coast, and directly into the wind it appeared, it wasn't long before I had to dig out my sweater that had not seen the light of day since Mississippi! I pressed on into the early evening - the coastal traffic left behind as I finally headed inland at last, and out of the wind.

As the sun slipped gently down behind me, casting a long shadow forward - I realised this would be for the very last time. I'd loved riding at this time of day, every day, for the past seven weeks. And I'd loved riding this bike. God how I'd loved riding this bike - it had been fu*king phenomenal if I'm honest! Yes I'd had a hand in the development of the specification, and subsequently the initial testing too back in the UK - but this was the acid test, the real-world proving - and it had exceeded even my own expectations as a true all-rounder - a genuine 50/50 road and trail machine that fundamentally compromised at neither, and more importantly, had proven itself to be an utterly faithful companion throughout this massive adventure.

I admit, I even shed a few tears when I realised tonight would be the last time I'd be riding this bike, the last time we'd be looking for a hotel, unpacking our modest belongs, taking a shower, drinking a vending machine soda, and maybe finding time to share a few thoughts and photos with you all...


photo. The final ascent over the mountains before Bend - crossing MacKenzie Pass under a full moon - the perfect end to the perfect day of a perfect trip on the perfect adventure bike. Goodnight.

Jenny xx

Great report. Thx.

Thanks for the ideas!

Sent from my LG-D852 using Tapatalk

I just came across this ride report. I felt I was also there - brilliant.

Following on from above, if you enjoyed this ride report and/or want to re-live some of the highlights, there is now a condensed video version of the AV seminar I presented last summer at various Overland events in the UK and USA (including the Horizons Unlimited California meeting last September) - here on Rally Raid's sister site: www.CB500XAdventure.com

Grab a coffee (tea, or beer) and enjoy the next 23 minutes!

Jenny x

If anyone is interested in finding out more about the Trans-America Trail (and there is a re-cap about the Rally Raid LEVEL 3 conversion to the CB500X too), I took part in a special feature on Adventure Rider Radio recently…

http://www.adventureriderradio.com/....-gnarly-trails

Jx

A nice summary of the Trans-Am 500 trip above here on the Bennetts BikeSocial online magazine, together with some photos of the Colorado sections of the TAT that I was finally able to ride this summer on my own red bike.

Plus do check out their related features profiling Rally Raid Products, and a dedicated test of the CB500X Adventure conversion.

Jx

Just a quick head-up for anyone within striking distance of Mariposa California this weekend - I'll be presenting two seminars at the Horizons Unlimited Travellers meeting - the first is my latest Packing Light show-and-tell/Q&A session, scheduled for Friday morning at 11am. I'll be sharing my experience and suggestions for packing light for a typical extended adventure ride with an off-road and trail bias, with my trusty CB500X as the backdrop of course.





The second is a science fiction double feature - Part 1 and [the debut of] Part 2 of my huge trip last summer on the G310GS, featuring highlights of some of the best dual-sport and adventure riding in North America - including sections of the Trans-America Trail, the Moab trail network, some of the best Colorado high passes, and sections of the various BDR routes all over the west and north west. A particular highlight is also my cross country blast to Toronto and back for some off-road riding in Ontario, plus my own exploration route/s through Wyoming and Montana. This audio-visual double bill is scheduled to start at 10am on Saturday 28th September.

As another treat, Juan Browne (Blancolirio on Youtube) will also be attending, and we're planning a couple of afternoon trail rides in the local area.

So if you're already planning on attending, or simply fancy a last minute weekend away in some awesome scenery together with some equally awesome people, do check out the California meeting page/thread for details (note that online registration is now closed), but if you contact the organisers via email I'm sure you'll be able to sign up on the day.

Hope to see you there!

Jenny x