The Trans-Labrador Highway (TLH): Not what I had expected. I had planned to tackle this trip with a KLR 650, but at the last minute, because I just couldn't get all my camping gear on the bike, I came up with a Plan B: take the H-D Road King instead. I can now say that this highway can definitely be done on a cruiser or a touring bike. Most of the road is just great!

From Baie-Comeau, I headed up North to Manic 5, where gas, decent food, and motel rooms are available. The 389 taking me there is worth the detour. What a road! All decent quality pavement, and all hills and curves.



100 KM after Manic 5, Relais Gabriel let me fill up the gas tank and stomach. I didn't sleep there, but they do have accomodations available.

Fermont, 255 KM after Relais Gabriel, is fantastic. All services in one building, including a grocery stor, liquor store, "club de danseuses", and other essential services. Labrador City was just a few kilometers away with its Tim Horton's (no kidding) waiting for me. Between Manic 5 and Fermont, I did about 100 KM on pavement (from Gagnon to Fire Lake). I didn't expect that at all, but it sure was nice!

Churchill Falls, 280 KM after Fermont, was a much needed rest between Fermont and Goose Bay, but besides the hydro-electric plant visit, not much to do there. I missed the plant visit by the way, because they have no tours on Mondays... The Midway Travel Inn is definitely the best bet, as I found out, sleeping at the Black Spruce Lodge. The Lodge is OK, just too expensive for what it's worth.

Another 300 KM took me to Happy-Valley-Goose-Bay. It felt like a victory! And yet, another Tim Horton's!

Overall, a bit of pavement around the cities of Gagnon, Labrador City, Churchill Falls, and Goose Bay, and the rest of the road was gravel, but excellent gravel roads I must say. I was often cruising up to 90 KM/H, and the only reason for not going faster was my fear of seeing a moose jump in front of me.



On to the ferry, taking me from Goose-Bay to Cartwright. I then took on the Labrador Coastal Drive (LCD). Half of the distance was on great gravel surface. The only challenge was the last 200 KM, from Penny's Pit Stop (see map) to Red Bay (TLH fin - Red Bay). This 200 KM was made of lots of large gravel, deep sand, and wash board, often all 3 at the same time. I did this part of the trip at an average speed of 30-40 KM/H. But 2 travelling companions (Ghislain and Scott) met on this journey earlier on, riding BMW's GS, went blazing through.



Before crossing over to the island of Newfoundland, I checked out the 138 highway heading West from Blanc Sablon. Over 60 KM of great pavement, amazing curves and hills, and landscaping from another world. Simply amazing! Definitely worth the ride. Another 12 KM or so of gravel took me to the end of the 138 in Vieux Fort. That park bench felt like the end of the world.



I did the whole trip in dry conditions, which probably had an impact on the surface of the gravel road, but then the dust was challenging at times when meeting cars or trucks. A gas mask would have been nice, but it was nothing that coudn't be handled.

Soon, Cartwright and Goose-Bay will be linked by a road that has been under construction for some years now. Whenever it opens up, I will definitely go back, this time doing it from East to West, all the way from Blanc Sablon to Baie-Comeau. Probably on the KLR, this time, though.



Delightful ride!

__________________
Dan
http://ballade-en-moto.blogspot.com/