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Photo by Hendi Kaf, in Cambodia

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Hendi Kaf,
in Cambodia



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  #1  
Old 16 Oct 2015
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Tunisia 2015

It is a translation from the original in catalan of our trip to Tunisia during 2015'Easter.
Sorry for the mistakes in translation



Finally I decide to begin the chronicle of our trip to Tunisia for some reason or the other have been delayed. The reason for this new momentum at the time of writing it is none other than the helplessness and anger I feel for new attacks that have happened in Tunisia, particularly in the city of Sousse.

When we went there in late March had 10 days of the attack the Bardo Museum, first we were frightened to hear the news, but then meditate so much and we decided that terrorists can not decide for doing out trip, so we go.

Tunisia is a fantastic country to go on a bike, let no collapse, with no tourists and our income it is doomed to extreme jihadism, this chronicle wants to be a little bit to make them the publicity they need.

The first idea that comes to mind when you go to Tunisia motorcycle is sand dunes, but on this trip we want to do is to visit the country for asphalt roads, suitable for all bikes. They have fantastic roads, nothing to do with Morocco, both national and secondary.

We are five BMW motorcycles: R1200RT (Siso and Paula) R1200GS (Jaume), K75S (Ramon) R1200GSA (Perarnau) and R1200GSA (Panoxa)

Today everyone has a camera phone and, once chosen pictures of 2428 are 6 to choose the chronicle, this is perhaps the biggest factor that prevented me from starting it. What got pictures and remove what? What you see here is my point of view, it certainly is different from others, I will try to be careful with details and anecdotes, especially those that can be used for other travelers who want to go further.

We are there!



The group photo, from left to right, Perarnau-Panotxa-Paula-Ramon-Jaume-Siso



The route is what we did this, the green points are the places where we sleep.



Wikiloc track




28/03/2015
Saturday


The ferry leaves Marseille at 16: 00h.



This photo has a story, here you can see Perarnau and Ramon watching astonishment as the Tunisianstrucks were being loaded butt stuck in the ceiling of the cellar. Entered full speed and suddenly some device was nailed to the roof rack on the roof, the front wheels rose making an easel ... we think that the journey is beginning, because there is less to be in Tunisia.



Once on the boat we eat food we carry (bread, sausages, cheese, fruits and wine). We reviewed the GPS, maps and routes and say goodbye to the day watching the sunset over the Mediterranean.






29/03/2015
Sunday


The boat trip spends 23 hours, we had a rough sea for a few hours, the hallways are empty, everybody is in rooms and we as us if the bikes are on place.
The ship was almost empty, people with the issue of attacks Bardo Museum cancel their passages and we are the only Europeans with another group of Catalan 4X4, about 11 cars and a truck had to be 23 cars!



Finally we reached Tunis, retarding clocks 1 pm, we have to pass the damn border, the last time I was there we took more than two hours.
We left the ship early and start the windows-game.
We spent the first stop where we teach and stamped passport ... all right. Later we stop in another queue, go to the second stop and pay the € 14 tourist tax per person ... all right, then we make another stop on a provisional license for driving the country ... all right.
AWESOME !!! In 30' we are !

The route today is short, follows the coast northward through Carthage and Sidi Bou Said direction Bizerte.



Now we want to roll, leave the port and we begin to acclimate to the way the Tunisian lead.
At Sidi Bou Said, a village where the buildings of Arabic and Andalusian styles are white with blue doors and windows. In that we realize we are in the middle of a market, hell good start.



In a few minutes we smell somebody Is cooking lamb so we stop there.



Continue the path, now with full belly, shortly see thatRamon ride too slow. The K75 is not working fine, as if a cylinder fails the review and see that a pipe plug was loose ... phew, lucky that we found.



We continue towards Bizerte, in a roundabout we find a police checkpoint and ask us where we go, another roundabout and the same. We do not know whether to stop or control to see the bikes do not stop to ask them. In the end we reached Bizerte and a police car brings us back to where we ask, tell Yalta hotel and we said that we accompany. We must say no and say it is a command, Glups! Let's entourage together, I now have the feeling of carrying a target attached to the back the vehicle away and stopping traffic to the hotel.
We question what time will leave the next day to come to listen to others again. Shit !
In the evening we went to dinner and we walk other police escort, I have the feeling of being an easy target.






30/03/2015
Monday


Today we have a path for all day, go northwards, where there was nobody when you visit Tunisia. Address Bizerte Cap, Cap Negro, Tabarka, the ruins of Dougga and finally Le Kef.



As expected so we went down to breakfast in the hotel reception we find the police waiting to escort us.
They ask the route we want to do and do not stop to think that we go north and then in Le Kef, we say it is very dangerous and blah blah blah ... We went in queue!
On leaving Bizerte other police officers say they take care of us.



Here you can see me while I tell the police to map the route you will, Ramon advantage for the first photos to the police.

We continue the route, stopping to refuel and we left the city of Bizerte police escort leave us,
wow !

The landscapes of northern Tunisia are spectacular, it seem’s to be in Scotland, everything is green, the towns with markets in the middle of the road, the temperature was perfect motorcycle without a police escort, we begin to enjoy.



We leave the main road to go to Cap Negro is a small road that have recently asphalted so far reached by car. It is a very small fishing village, to take a geocache and others sleep for while



Returning to the main road dodging cows and we look another 4x4 with soldiers and they will escort some time
We spend kilometers and finally arrive at Tabarka, Ramon with the K75 is the one who has to fill the tank more often. We stopped at the gas station and told us that the light has gone around the village and they cannot serve us. We are just a few kilometers from the border with Algeria.



We follow the path and at Aïn Draham we can refuel and take lunch.



After the lunch we ride for beautiful roads and landscapes.



We follow the route direction Dougga ans the BMW K75 is not working again and must stop for arrange it.



Finally we arrived at Dougga, it was an ancient Roman town.



Once we visited the ruins we go to our final stage, Le Kef. At the entrance of the village and we waited for a patrol car to the police to accompany us to the hotel. The same protocol in Bizerte, asking us what time we go out to dinner and what the morning. Now we know how and we both overwhelmed. Once the bikes parked in the inner courtyard of the hotel, a good shower and a good meal. Tomorrow is another day ... the route passes Kaserine the nest of terrorists in Tunisia. Well, not quite think and drink s are thirsty.

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  #2  
Old 16 Oct 2015
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31/03/2015
Tuesday


The route of today go to the south, we leave the mountains and we will gradually see how it changes the landscape.



As expected the reception we meet again with the Police and kindly accompany us to the bank, today we need exchange money. Then we refuel heavily escorted. At the gas station some people are repairing the roof and two workers on a scaffold at the top, so we pay and remove the bikes do not need to tell us that decline, which removed the scaffolding so we can leave. Glups !!!, and those two up there, amazing!



At the exit of Le Kef police left us. The landscape is now flatter but still very green, see stops gasoline bulk "imported" from Algeria.



We arrived at the ruins of Sbeitla, begins to get hot and drink something. As the ruins are from outside, we get lazy, we take some pictures and continue towards Kasserine.


Kasserine is considered the focus of terrorism in Tunisia, Algeria and is very close to the mountainous terrain separates called Jebel Chambi.
We stopped at the entrance to the city to buy food, today we take a picnic.




As always out of town cops leave us. We stopped to take a picnic ... and pass the army!



Continue route, we try ride a road very close to the Algerian border, but a police checkpoint stops us. 4x4 police to accompany us ti the next village.



Arriving at Redeyef and here we have two options to reach the Oasis Chebika, Rommel Track or the road.

We make two groups:
01-Ramon, Panotxa I Perarnau (track Rommel)
02-Siso, Paula and Jaume (Road)

Rommel Track:
Huge landscapes, leave the green and down the mountains towards the plans. In the distance we see the salt lake Chott El Jerid and the beginning of the desert.



To take another geocache and rest some time.



We left behind the mountains.




Going to Tamerza for road:
Like us they also go down to the plains through Tamerza, Tozeur and its oasis.



We eat a good meals ans dring a good Tunisian wine and some s.




01/04/2015
Wednesday


The today route passes for the salt lake Chott el Djerid.



We remove the motorcycle from a makeshift parking a neighboring hotel kindly offered us once again to mount the alley pack, load bikes and start the route again.



The picture you see now are details of Tozeur in the morning, Ramon wake up and take a walk around the village, you can see things normally on the bike and the crowd will go unnoticed. A truckload of eggs, a football in the street, stunning petrol ancient ...
Tozeur is known for its brick buildings making different figures.



We take the road to Nefta, the second holiest city in Tunisia after Kaiouran. The road with very little traffic is not expected towards the border.
We reached Hezoua village bordering Algeria, we are minded that we find a police checkpoint and let us move along the road close the border. The border is closed, there is a queue of trucks waiting their opening advantage to buy water at the moment nobody says anything. We are looking for the road and do not see anywhere but on a street that seems a track, but it is the road we are looking for ... full speed !!!!



The road is the C210 is a bit dirty desert sand but it is quite passable. It’s totally parallel to the border, sometime around there until the GPS brand are in Algeria. Find camels and desert landscapes typical of the advantage to go on asphalt.



To take pictures, everyone was at ease and we meet from time to time and we are all about 150 km road for us.



We arrived in Kebili, south gate of Chott el Djerid, go over there once filled tanks.
A line of 50 km through the salt lake, the perspective of the road makes you lose reference landscapes.



The water is in the photographs is rain water is not filtered, the salt lake is completely dry, where there is salt are rivers red.



At the other side, almost in Tozeur, we take lunch in a bar with music store next door (the same price).



Our final step is to Douz, gateway to the desert. Come to Camping Desert Club (the owner is French, Shopie), highly recommended, exquisite and facilities as here. Sent her an email that she reserve all three tents, perfect.



Later we decided to look for rental quads, it is a pleasure to circulate motorcycle without a helmet, not remembered.
Tomorrow , at 9:00, we will have 5 quads prepared.

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  #3  
Old 16 Oct 2015
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02/04/2015
Thursday


Today morning we ride with quads in the desert and in the evening will route to Chenini.

Morning:
Let's take a route of approximately 4 hours, we had luck in the guide accompanying us why there was a moment that we did not know where we were.



We arrived at Douz quite tired, drink a Coke with guides in the area, some pictures with camels and turn back to the camp where Sophie has prepared meal, a shower, a ... or two.

Wonderful !




Afternoon:
The route will towards Matmata, Mededine, Tataouine and Chenini.



Follow route and pass the crossroads of Ksar Guilane. Curiously, there are not many police, it seems that there is something more peaceful south, the landscapes are very dry, but find a corner as if it were an oasis, all well ... green postcard!



We arrived at Matmata, where the houses are typical troglodítiques, large holes in the ground where they have housing.



The route continues with beautiful scenery, the sun begins to ponder the lights and change quickly.



Almost dark we reached Chenini



A nation hung in the mountains, very advisable to visit. Sleep in a house excavated in the rock, a room for 11 people all together.








03/04/2015
Friday


The route today leads to people hanging Douiret the Ksar Ouled Debbab the Ksar Ouled Soltane, Tataouine and ends on the island of Djerba, Houmt Souk capital.



We get up early and go for a walk in town.



Details of the courtyard of the Hotel, highly recommended.



We reached Douriet an abandoned village hanging on the mountain, like Chenini.



Continue route between palm trees and stones until Ksar Ouled Debbab a Ksar intended for tourists, with figures of cardboard, we did not like!



We arrived Ksar Ouled Soltane, if this is true. It's hot and Ramon decided to stay with the local population to stop the shade and keep the bikes (see arrow)



We go to Tataouine, load deposits and make money exchange. We follow the route and continue after lunch we reach the island of Djerba passing the bridge that connects the mainland.



The hotel, like all Tunisia has place to park bikes, this one also ... the courtyard!
Once parked, a shower, a walk around the town and a good dinner, is all that had happened that day.






04/04/2015
Saturday


Today the route is now clearly back, I mean climb northwards and we have the feeling that decline.
Leave Houmt Souk direction Gabes, El Jem, Kairouan and Sousse.



Breakfast in the hotel courtyard, next to the bikes ... that romantic!



Ramon, who wakes up every day earlier, it was a flight to the city and some other cache.



To leave the island we will take a ferry back to the mainland.



The landscape changes, now all are trees that will accompany us throughout the route.



Finally we arrived at El Jem, an amphitheater of Roman times.



Follow route, stop to eat before we reach Kariouan.



Kariouan third holy city of Islam after Mecca and Medina.



Finally we get to Sousse, sadly known for recent attacks.

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Old 16 Oct 2015
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05/04/2015
Sunday


Last day of bike route to Tunisia, Sousse along the coast to the Cap Bon in Tunisia and then direct capital.



Continue route out of Sousse is densely populated by road are lots of stalls, petrol, fruit ... until all are safe.
There are many mosques everywhere with a variety of minarets of all kinds.



Around noon we arrive at Cap Bon, the views are spectacular.



It is a lighthouse where there are military installations, one military will step bar and tells us where we parked the bikes. Accompanies us to visit a rusty iron cannon while he explains that he and his gun were the Bardo museum the day of the attacks, is photographed with us all happy.



We stopped for lunch, lamb.



In the afternoon we reached Tunis, the first place we recognize is that of 14 January 2011, symbol of the Tunisian revolution.



Once out on the street surprisingly strong security measures that are in some buildings.



But today we party, we take the bike and find a bar near the hotel where they sell .






06/04/2015
Monday


Today we have the whole day to visit the capital Tunis
Take the tram in Barcelona which will take place at the Museum of Bardo, we have the bad luck that the museum closed Mondays.



Walk back towards the Medina and access to the north. We dedicate the morning to surround the Medina, do shopping in the afternoon and evening for the family last dinner in Tunisia this end.






07/04/2015
Tuesday


Last day to take advantage of currency exchange, provided you have a receipt from the bank and a maximum 100 €



Ma'a El Salama Tunísia!




08/04/2015
Wednesday


24 hours later we reached the port of Marseilles



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  #5  
Old 17 Oct 2015
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Hi Ramon,

Good to see you guys out enjoying yourselves. Great photos, great trip. We missed you all at the HU meeting in France this year, but hope that perhaps next year you can come and talk to us about this trip.

very best wishes to you all!

John.
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-''It is better to walk alone than with a crowd going in the wrong direction''. ( Herman Siu)
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Old 17 Oct 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pongo View Post
Hi Ramon,

Good to see you guys out enjoying yourselves. Great photos, great trip. We missed you all at the HU meeting in France this year, but hope that perhaps next year you can come and talk to us about this trip.

very best wishes to you all!

John.
Hi John,
This year, for various reasons we could not come
I hope next year we can go to the event.
Cheers !
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Old 27 Oct 2019
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great

A very informative thread, thank you for sharing.

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