Just got back from a tour of Ukraine and thought the following information would be useful for anyone travelling from east to west. We followed the coast from Odesa to Bilorad Dnistrosv'kyj using the railway/road bridge to cross the Dinster. The road is no worse than many of the western Ukraine roads (Liviv/Vinnitsyia/Uman for example). This way you avoid the hassle of crossing the Moldova border then coming back into to Ukraine using the E87.

From Bilorad we picked up the E87 to Bolhrad, Izmail was the other option, we just decided on Bolhrad. We ended up on a "very" rural road (usual potholes, broken concrete) which turned to a dirt/sand effort for a mile or 2 and good gravel for a few more. Ok for us, dry day - the sandy bit could be a bit slimy in the wet. The road closely followed the west side of the lake and had very little traffic (2 cars). We were two-up on a FJR1300, so any solo rider shouldn't have a problem.

Eventually ended up in Reni for the border crossings. You leave Ukraine and enter Moldova. Postings we read on various websites made the Moldovans sound like thugs, quite the contrary. They were polite, bemused by our appearance and made every effort to get our entry process over as painlessly as possible and wished us good luck. We then rode the 1km across Moldova to exit (more paperwork), cross the bridge over the Danube and enter Romania (more paperwork).

The snag in all this is we are stuck with our Ukranian money as there wasn't anywhere to change at the border. If you use this route, go into Reni and try your luck there before attempting the border crossing. No one wants Ukranian money, will try our luck at the airport later this month.

We left Odesa at 8:30 am and arrived in Galati, Romania about 3:30 pm. Recommend the Hotel Magnus (Hotel Magnus - Prima Pagina) if you are feeling flush. The hotel has free secure bike parking (all night guard, locked gates), free minibar, free internet and laptops in the lobby, beautiful room and cracking breakfast for £46.36 for a double. Luxury.

Great info, thanks for the post!

I would also like to thank you for posting this info. Leaving tomorrow for Black Sea Tour and will test your route in reverse. Cheers Andy

Andy - you should be Ok getting Ukranian money at the Moldovan border. When we entered Ukraine close to Liviv (Kracovec) they wouldn't take Sterling, fortunately we had some Polish Zlotys which got us down to Liviv. You will need Ukranian (UAH) to purchase insurance - £3 for 15 days.

My experience in two brief trips into the Ukraine was that Ukrainian money is far easier to buy at borders than it is to sell. Try not to get stuck with it on departure, but if you do the best answer I found was to go to a nearby major transport hub (Krakow, for example) and talk to the changing booths at the bus or train station. If more desperate, talk directly to passengers.

I had the same problem with other currencies, of course; you pull up to the border crossing and are mystified to find no moneychangers. Or they tell you to go back 20 miles in the direction from which you came....to look for a bank which closed a half hour ago. But Ukraine was more difficult in this respect than other countries.

FWIW, I enjoyed my bits of riding there, just as I've enjoyed almost everyplace else. But do watch out for the police with their radar guns (I got off with a warning following a surprising refusal to pay an on-the-spot "fine." They wouldn't even accept my offer of a chocolate bar.).

enjoy,

Mark

I described the route I took from Ukraine-Romania here:
http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...t-odessa-41383
-- pretty much the same as Harriyamman, and as described, except I rode through Izmail instead of Bolhrad -- terrible tarmac, but no sand/ gravel, if that's a problem for you. (I'd have hated it, in December...) Well worth reiterating that this takes you through Moldova but not Transdinister. There's a very sympathetic, friendly Moldovan border guard there who speaks decent French.

(nb what I call Giurgiulesti, Harriyamman is calling Reni.)

As for currency.. i have plenty of Hryvnia if anyone wants to buy them before heading to Ukraine..?

--Mike

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Hi, after worrying about these borders Romania-Moldova-Ukraine crossings it was problem free with the longest stop 20 minutes and not a hint towards a bribe. Biggest problem we faced was the many speed traps in Ukraine (we drove slowly and were not stopped once, although we met 2 Czech's that had been fined 5 times) and lack of accomodation. Andy

Hi,
I have a one Coupon note and a one million Coupon note from a 1996 trip when the 'Coupon' was the currency in Ukraine.
No, you definitely can't get rid of it, but it makes an OK souvenir though!

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